PCA D-Class and GTS2, How?
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
PCA D-Class and GTS2, How?
Gary, Sean and several others I have seen have set their cars up to run in both classes. The way I calculate it, there is nearly a 200 pound disparity.
How do you do it? I have an '80 SC that I have been building for D-class and just got done calculating the numbers. My car dynoed at 169 hp and 179 ft-lbs prior to installing new injectors. The old injectors had several problems, so I think it would dyno a bit higher now. So, lets just use 175 for discussion. In GTS2, that means car+drover would need to be 175 x 14.5 = 2537 lbs to be competitive. D-Class is 2702 lbs with drover.
Do you prepare your car for GTS2 weight, then add ballast for PCA? Do you prepare it for D-Class weight and remove something significant for GTS2?
Come on, go ahead, divulge all your secrets.
How do you do it? I have an '80 SC that I have been building for D-class and just got done calculating the numbers. My car dynoed at 169 hp and 179 ft-lbs prior to installing new injectors. The old injectors had several problems, so I think it would dyno a bit higher now. So, lets just use 175 for discussion. In GTS2, that means car+drover would need to be 175 x 14.5 = 2537 lbs to be competitive. D-Class is 2702 lbs with drover.
Do you prepare your car for GTS2 weight, then add ballast for PCA? Do you prepare it for D-Class weight and remove something significant for GTS2?
Come on, go ahead, divulge all your secrets.
#2
Drifting
Gary, Sean and several others I have seen have set their cars up to run in both classes. The way I calculate it, there is nearly a 200 pound disparity.
How do you do it? I have an '80 SC that I have been building for D-class and just got done calculating the numbers. My car dynoed at 169 hp and 179 ft-lbs prior to installing new injectors. The old injectors had several problems, so I think it would dyno a bit higher now. So, lets just use 175 for discussion. In GTS2, that means car+drover would need to be 175 x 14.5 = 2537 lbs to be competitive. D-Class is 2702 lbs with drover.
Do you prepare your car for GTS2 weight, then add ballast for PCA? Do you prepare it for D-Class weight and remove something significant for GTS2?
Come on, go ahead, divulge all your secrets.
How do you do it? I have an '80 SC that I have been building for D-class and just got done calculating the numbers. My car dynoed at 169 hp and 179 ft-lbs prior to installing new injectors. The old injectors had several problems, so I think it would dyno a bit higher now. So, lets just use 175 for discussion. In GTS2, that means car+drover would need to be 175 x 14.5 = 2537 lbs to be competitive. D-Class is 2702 lbs with drover.
Do you prepare your car for GTS2 weight, then add ballast for PCA? Do you prepare it for D-Class weight and remove something significant for GTS2?
Come on, go ahead, divulge all your secrets.
#4
Rennlist Member
Don - While I have made noises I still haven't run in NASA yet due to schedule conflicts with PCA races I wanted to run and small numbers in GTS-2. I can't speak for Sean, but I prepared my car to be legal for PCA and then added the 2nd door bar, main hoop diagonal, and (will add) a right side head restraint system. I intend on lightening my car a bit more this winter and running some adjustable ballast next year. Removing my ballast, my spare tire, and my passenger seat for NASA should get me 100Lb lighter. There is no way to get more power out of my car and stay legal, so it is what it is.
Of course if I wanted to cheat in PCA and go for it in NASA I could build my motor up and it wouldn't be easily (i.e. w/o a borescope or dismantling) detected, but all that would do is make me a POS cheat and any victories totally meaningless..
Of course if I wanted to cheat in PCA and go for it in NASA I could build my motor up and it wouldn't be easily (i.e. w/o a borescope or dismantling) detected, but all that would do is make me a POS cheat and any victories totally meaningless..
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Fred,
2700/14.5 = 186. Sounds like 9.8:1 CR to me. I was pretty happy with my numbers, but I suppose I will get closer to 175 with better headers. I currently have pre-74 heat exchangers.
Toby,
Some carpet is required. I trust that is a recent picture. Your car looked a little different last May.
Gary,
My car will also remain legal. Ill just have to get creative with weight. I like the new rule allowing the removal of sound deadening material.
Thanks all for your ideas. More ideas are welcome.
2700/14.5 = 186. Sounds like 9.8:1 CR to me. I was pretty happy with my numbers, but I suppose I will get closer to 175 with better headers. I currently have pre-74 heat exchangers.
Toby,
Some carpet is required. I trust that is a recent picture. Your car looked a little different last May.
Gary,
My car will also remain legal. Ill just have to get creative with weight. I like the new rule allowing the removal of sound deadening material.
Thanks all for your ideas. More ideas are welcome.
#6
Rennlist Member
My car was an old G car that I was running in GTS-2 with and we just took al of the carpeting, etc. to get it down to as close as possible. There was never a perfect balance to run the car in both but you'll have fun. I ended up gutting the car and building a neat little motor. It would have put me in GT with PCA so I ended up just running in NASA.
Now I'm running a Spec Boxster in PCA and it "should" be competitive in GTS-2 as well. I'll let you know.
Now I'm running a Spec Boxster in PCA and it "should" be competitive in GTS-2 as well. I'll let you know.
#7
Rennlist Member
Don,
IMO to make the most HP for D class you will want to run a big port 8.5/1 engine. The small port 9.3/1 is restricted and does not "breathe" as well at higher RPM. I'm not saying you can't be competitive with the small port engine, but as you get closer to the front it will be tougher to be competitive with the small port engine.
For GTS 2, you should have no problem getting down to the weight you need to. On my 79 SC that I run as E prep, I have to add a significant amount of ballast to make weight.
On my car I run font and rear fiberglass bumpers, Fibergalss wing/decklid, sunroof removed(I bonded in the stock outer sunroof skin), Light weight carpet kit,A/C removed( the entire A/C system) and small battery. The engine heater blower is removed. My exhaust is very light--SSI headers with heat exchangers removed-Burns Stainless Race mufflers.
I have my spare tire in for ballast(45 lbs). For sprint races I install 40-50 lbs ballast in the pass floor and run more fuel. For 1 1/2 enduros I don't refuel and am usually on fumes, so I have to add 70-80 lbs ballast. So that is 115 to 125 lbs of ballast. I am 6'2" 230lbs with all my gear on. So if I weighed 150 lbs, I would have to carry an aditional 80 lbs. Usually when I finish a race I am within 10 lbs of the allowed weight, unless we have a lot of double yellow time.
IMO to make the most HP for D class you will want to run a big port 8.5/1 engine. The small port 9.3/1 is restricted and does not "breathe" as well at higher RPM. I'm not saying you can't be competitive with the small port engine, but as you get closer to the front it will be tougher to be competitive with the small port engine.
For GTS 2, you should have no problem getting down to the weight you need to. On my 79 SC that I run as E prep, I have to add a significant amount of ballast to make weight.
On my car I run font and rear fiberglass bumpers, Fibergalss wing/decklid, sunroof removed(I bonded in the stock outer sunroof skin), Light weight carpet kit,A/C removed( the entire A/C system) and small battery. The engine heater blower is removed. My exhaust is very light--SSI headers with heat exchangers removed-Burns Stainless Race mufflers.
I have my spare tire in for ballast(45 lbs). For sprint races I install 40-50 lbs ballast in the pass floor and run more fuel. For 1 1/2 enduros I don't refuel and am usually on fumes, so I have to add 70-80 lbs ballast. So that is 115 to 125 lbs of ballast. I am 6'2" 230lbs with all my gear on. So if I weighed 150 lbs, I would have to carry an aditional 80 lbs. Usually when I finish a race I am within 10 lbs of the allowed weight, unless we have a lot of double yellow time.
Last edited by flatsics; 12-17-2008 at 01:58 AM.
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#8
Rennlist Member
Don have you gutted it? What exhaust are you running? I am gutting mine right now for the cage install and I predict that after it's installed I will be right around 2400 lbs. There is at least 30 lbs. of carpet, sound deadening, glue, speakers, stock door panels, etc. that I have removed. I will add the spare tire and another 70 lbs. or so to make PCA weight. This is a non-sunroof Euro car and I'm running fiberglass bumpers front and rear but you should still be able to get the weight down then add some back for PCA.
The gutting is a real fun chore let me tell ya. Many brain cells were lost inhaling xylene...
The gutting is a real fun chore let me tell ya. Many brain cells were lost inhaling xylene...
#10
Rennlist Member
Thanks! Don't get me started on the carpet thing! I will be putting it back in the car (barely) per PCA rules but am hoping they'll come to their senses soon and allow us to remove it at which point I'll be able to pop it out and run like the above picture.
#11
NASA Racer
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I run 120lbs of lead ballast for PCA (and a full cool shirt cooler and almost full tank of gas). When i run NASA i run without the ballast, remove the right side seat and run light on fuel (and without cool shirt if possible).
Do everything that Doug suggests to get light. Remember that all the little things add up. I'm talking interior light bulbs, oem seat belts, every little plastic bit, mouse nest (that was a fun little find), etc.
Do everything that Doug suggests to get light. Remember that all the little things add up. I'm talking interior light bulbs, oem seat belts, every little plastic bit, mouse nest (that was a fun little find), etc.
#12
Rennlist Member
Yeah, if I were you, I would velcro in the carpet.
#13
Rennlist Member
Oh, and make sure you install the lower rear seat cushion. You can remove the padding and just glue the seat cushion shell to the carpet.
In general I don't have too many problems with the PCA rules, but the clinging onto the carpet is just bizarre. Let's see, I have no working heater system, no A/C, no rubber bushings left in the suspension, full cage, no real bumpers, no headliner---OH I Know, I will put a thin *** carpet kit in it so it will still look "stock". Oh wait- you can remove the crapet that is not glued or screwed. Now what if Hans had a bad hangover that day and did not get the glue every where it was supposed to go, what carpet do you get to remove?
In general I don't have too many problems with the PCA rules, but the clinging onto the carpet is just bizarre. Let's see, I have no working heater system, no A/C, no rubber bushings left in the suspension, full cage, no real bumpers, no headliner---OH I Know, I will put a thin *** carpet kit in it so it will still look "stock". Oh wait- you can remove the crapet that is not glued or screwed. Now what if Hans had a bad hangover that day and did not get the glue every where it was supposed to go, what carpet do you get to remove?
#14
Rennlist Member