dbryant61

Lots of great data guys. I have a lot of stuff removed, but still need to do the sunroof, sound insulation, and door panels. Doug, I just rebuilt my engine two winters ago. Ill drive it until I have spent a season or two racing, then buy and build a 78-79 if it makes sense.

My current exhaust is pre-74 heat exchangers headers without the tin and a Monty muffler. I can lose about 20 lbs from the Monty if I go to Supertraps or similar. I plan on keeping the heavy bumpers at first also. Im thinking it might save me a few $$ in body work in case things get a little close.

Cris, your tubwork looks great. Ill be doing that and caging it this winter.

So it sounds like the final analysis is build the car to GTS2 weight, then add spare tire, passenger seat, RS carpet kit, and ballast to make D-Class weight. Thanks a bunch.

Gary R.

Don - I run SS equal length headers with straight 2" pipes out the back, can't get any lighter back there. For tracks like Limerock I have a 2-in / 2-out 1- piece Flowmaster 80 unit that goes on/off in about 3 minutes. 2 nuts, 2 quick release clamps.. For NASA, be sure to have the proper bars as the Safety Devices cage I had needed the diagonal added (we may have already discussed this).

FredC

No no Don, I said closer to 2702, not 2702 :-) Gary, Sean, and I run with the same engine build (8.5:1) the only difference being perhaps the big port small port thing. Not sure about what port size we each run. Ok enough defensiveness on my part here :-(.

A friend of mine running a 78SC in prepared E had his motor rebuilt last year and was initially dissappointed with the performance of his car. The shop adjusted timing and he gained 3 to 6 hp on the same dyno this way. Perhaps something else to think about.

I echo what the others wrote for weight reduction.

Good luck with the project!

dbryant61

Gary, Sean and Fred,

I spent some time last night looking at race results. You guys all look very close, along with Del Auray who won the class at the race at VIR. I was there and took a look at his car. Thanks to all of you for being so free with your info.

Fred, I have been running 10 deg. BTDC with 93 octane pump gas. Do you happen to know what timing you are running and what fuel is allowed?

Thanks,

Don

flatsics

Don, when you check your ignition timing, you should really only be concerned with the total timing at @6000 rpm.
The USA 80-83 engines have a different ignition distributor than the 78-79 and 80-83 ROW engines. It has a very short advance curve.
You have to be a little more conservative with total timing--you should shoot for 31-33 degrees total at 6000 rpm. That is assuming a healthy engine with proper A/F ratio. The 8.5/1 engines can handle 35-38 degrees total, because of the lower compression ratio.

Ideally you would take your car to a dyno and tune for max advance on the dyno.

FredC

I am no expert really and I don't know what timing i am running. But FWIW, i can tell you that i used 100 at the NJMP CR and the car ran real strong (felt stronger than when i use 93).

flatsics

Some info on fuel ,ignition,detonation,ect.

http://www.rennsportsystems.com/2a.html


Thread about ignition timing for more HP.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...timing+advance

Gary R.

I think it was the new black paint on that front bumper...

Excellent info, thanks Doug!

John H

When I ran a 993 in the old PCA d and GTS3 with NASA, I found the best way to get there is to take outas much stuff as you can and still remain legal for PCA then add ballast. The floor board is the best place to have weight (legally) if you need to meet weight. I had to add 80 lbs of ballast and run a full fuel load for PCA.

I always took the door panels off, removed ballast, spare tire and passenger seat for NASA events. You get good at removing and reinstalling the door panels after a couple times. Obviously, I never had to worry about filling up the tank before a race or qualifying for NASA.

Sean F

One thing to keep in mind is that everyone posting in this thread other than me is a blatant cheater.

A.Wayne

FredC

I think the paint job on your car is way too smooth for pca club racing and therefore gives you straight line speed advantage. Cheater (somehow)!

38D

All the cheater parts must be kept on the top shelf where you can't see 'em

Gary R.

Yeah, his car is too "pretty" now.. fix that for him Fred.

FredC

From what I saw at njmp, you could help him scuff that paint too :-)