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I'd say given that he fully disclosed a prejudice for the very nature of an Estate and against that of the Macan's genre-like nature (which is meaningless subjectivity), his actual objective review of the Macan is absolutely raving.
Yes, that's why that review is interesting. Harris claims to not like the Macan because of what it is, but reading only slightly between the lines he gushes over it.
It's clever, and I'm sure he knew exactly what he was doing writing it that way.