Engine mount/Trans mount changes
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Engine mount/Trans mount changes
My new to me Cayman R has just a bit too much slop with sharp throttle inputs or changes in throttle position. I want to stiffen things up but it's not a dedicated track car. I've looked into Function First and others but the consensus seems to be there is little if any middle ground: you keep the plushness of stock or get your teeth rattled out. Previous experience with my RSA was the RS mounts were the Goldilocks sweet spot. Much better than stock but streetable.
Can anyone elaborate on their experiences if different or make other suggestions?
Thanks.
Can anyone elaborate on their experiences if different or make other suggestions?
Thanks.
#6
Rennlist Member
To the OP, did you get a resolution for the "slop" on your R? Interested in options for my S with LSD and LWFW. Love the performance, would like to isolate the "shift shock" a bit.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#7
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I looked into different transmission and/or engine mount options. In my research I noted that 987 transmission mounts were essentially the same as 993 engine mounts. Since 993 and 964 engine mounts are again essentially the same I figured 964 RS mounts would fit. I found a set of aftermarket 964 RS mounts for $85/pair and put those in. I had to also buy some of the associated RS mounting hardware. All in the change was about $110 for the pair with bolts. It is better but I still get a smaller but noticeable shift when on and off the throttle, especially in sport mode. Right now I have a set of Function First soft engine mount inserts that haven't been installed. I'm afraid this will tip it over to being too firm, especially with the RS mounts in. If that's the case I'll put the stock transmission mounts in.
I'm glad I'm doing this not only for the slop but in my first track event it seemed the shifting was off, like maybe the movement was causing a slight misalignment causing me to have a hard time getting it into gear.
The take home so far is 964RS mounts fit, are firmer and are an economical (in aftermarket form) alternative to worn and expensive stock mounts.
I'll update after the new inserts are in.
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#8
Rennlist Member
B. Kish, thanks a bunch for the great detailed reply. I'll definitely be following your experience.
My sense on mine is that it is more driveline rotation related, especially since I have an OEM spring clutch disc/pressure plate mated to the LWFW. I usually make perfect shifts up and down, but if my timing is a bit "off" , I do feel that "thunk".
Also, it seems that in gear, clutch engaged, throttle transitions can be felt a bit more through the seat of the pants than I recall in my 2 other DMFW Boxsters that I used to own.
Would wear on the OEM LSD unit have any bearing on this? My car has 32 K miles, NO track, no over revs at all, and I would expect that the LSD would still be pretty tight.
My sense on mine is that it is more driveline rotation related, especially since I have an OEM spring clutch disc/pressure plate mated to the LWFW. I usually make perfect shifts up and down, but if my timing is a bit "off" , I do feel that "thunk".
Also, it seems that in gear, clutch engaged, throttle transitions can be felt a bit more through the seat of the pants than I recall in my 2 other DMFW Boxsters that I used to own.
Would wear on the OEM LSD unit have any bearing on this? My car has 32 K miles, NO track, no over revs at all, and I would expect that the LSD would still be pretty tight.
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Done
First impressions are along the lines of why the heck didn't Porsche spec the car this way. It's firmer, for sure, but no buzzing or rattling. It just feel more connected. And that's with the 964 RS mounts in. It would be a little softer with the stock transmission mounts in. It is a little noisier but again not in a bad way. This is an R so it's supposed to be that way, right?
Here are the details.
There are no online tutorials for getting a 987.2 engine mount out that I could find. It's very different from the first gen or 986. No way to take it out without opening the front bulkhead. It doesn't fit around the coolant lines like the first gen does either.
When I got the mount out I could torque it such that it would make metal to metal contact with the carrier save for the rubber and foam spacers between. I looked at the mount and I could see no tears. It's just kinda flimsy. And really it's a Rube Goldberg set up to put a flimsy mount in and then the foam and rubber spacers because there will be so much movement/deflection. Seriously, not at all something I'd expect from Porsche.
I put in the lowest durometer orange FF inserts and reassembled.
I can see this might have something to do with the DMF. And I could see the current set up as being detrimental if I ever go LWF. Since the issue I was concerned with went away with these changes I think it was an issue of the motor mount being a weak link. The car only has 14K on it but the PO did a few HPDE's (no over revs except a few in Zone 1 so he can't have driven it hard). Maybe it was just a bad mount in some way. Who knows.
I did also treat myself to a Numeric shifter. Hoo boy that's a nice piece of kit!
Here are the details.
There are no online tutorials for getting a 987.2 engine mount out that I could find. It's very different from the first gen or 986. No way to take it out without opening the front bulkhead. It doesn't fit around the coolant lines like the first gen does either.
When I got the mount out I could torque it such that it would make metal to metal contact with the carrier save for the rubber and foam spacers between. I looked at the mount and I could see no tears. It's just kinda flimsy. And really it's a Rube Goldberg set up to put a flimsy mount in and then the foam and rubber spacers because there will be so much movement/deflection. Seriously, not at all something I'd expect from Porsche.
I put in the lowest durometer orange FF inserts and reassembled.
I can see this might have something to do with the DMF. And I could see the current set up as being detrimental if I ever go LWF. Since the issue I was concerned with went away with these changes I think it was an issue of the motor mount being a weak link. The car only has 14K on it but the PO did a few HPDE's (no over revs except a few in Zone 1 so he can't have driven it hard). Maybe it was just a bad mount in some way. Who knows.
I did also treat myself to a Numeric shifter. Hoo boy that's a nice piece of kit!
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
OK, I get it.
I just went for an extended drive. I hear more mechanical noise and a subtle vibration comes through from time to time. I feel it most in the pedals, oddly enough and the seat rarely. If this were a daily driver and I never listened to the radio it might be a little over the edge. Given my car sees some DE time as well as DD it's a compromise I can live with. If this were strictly a DD and comfort was the priority I might feel differently. I can see having to unwind this when I sell the car, depending on the buyer.
I just went for an extended drive. I hear more mechanical noise and a subtle vibration comes through from time to time. I feel it most in the pedals, oddly enough and the seat rarely. If this were a daily driver and I never listened to the radio it might be a little over the edge. Given my car sees some DE time as well as DD it's a compromise I can live with. If this were strictly a DD and comfort was the priority I might feel differently. I can see having to unwind this when I sell the car, depending on the buyer.
#11
Burning Brakes
I just did this mount replacement on my 2010 987.2 S thanks to some email help from Brent. Some tips I'll add to this thread:
1) The 987.2 motor mount looks completely different from the one for earlier cars. I wasn't entirely sure I'd received the correct part until I saw the one in the car was the same.
2) As mentioned, you need to remove the access panel behind the seats to access the top bolt holding the mount to the engine
3) You need to disconnect one of the coolant hoses to get the mount out the bottom. With the back of the car raised, disconnecting the right hose only released about half a gallon of coolant. There was no need to fully drain or bleed the system, I just topped it off when I was done.
Not a job I want to repeat any time soon but not too bad thanks to Brent's info. After eight years and 60K the original mount was intact but definitely showing some cracks. I replaced it with a stock part and I have a bit more engine noise in the cabin now, which I suspect is just from the new rubber being stiffer and crack-free.
1) The 987.2 motor mount looks completely different from the one for earlier cars. I wasn't entirely sure I'd received the correct part until I saw the one in the car was the same.
2) As mentioned, you need to remove the access panel behind the seats to access the top bolt holding the mount to the engine
3) You need to disconnect one of the coolant hoses to get the mount out the bottom. With the back of the car raised, disconnecting the right hose only released about half a gallon of coolant. There was no need to fully drain or bleed the system, I just topped it off when I was done.
Not a job I want to repeat any time soon but not too bad thanks to Brent's info. After eight years and 60K the original mount was intact but definitely showing some cracks. I replaced it with a stock part and I have a bit more engine noise in the cabin now, which I suspect is just from the new rubber being stiffer and crack-free.