r553

I've read that some 2013 CDs had an engine assembly issue where the timing chain cover was not sealed correctly.

My CD does not need any oil added between oil changes.

alexaqui

So what is normal oil consumption on these cars? I went from not losing/burning a drop for 60k miles to losing a full quart of oil every 4000 miles. Just had the low oil light go on yesterday and mistakenly didn't have my spare oil with me. What a pain to find it on short notice. Ended up going to a VW dealer.

I do not see any spotting on my driveway currently. If I park the car in the garage, no oil.

RS-America

Interesting as we are at ~63,000. Started losing some oil to where our Tech was monitoring it. The ~200 mile trip that started this thread we lost half a quart. Just prior to the 200 mile trip the DPF filter sensor failed giving us a check engine light. Dealer said we could take this trip and drive around town until the sensor came in. The DPF sensor is in - will update here what they found when we get our CD back.

Thanks for all the feed-back! Hoping 60,000 is not a magic CD number!

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deilenberger

IF the leak is at the right spot - you may never see any drips, yet it continues leaking.

The "diaper" - under-tray under the engine, was designed to capture any leaking oil. The EPA requires this - so all modern cars have it. The tray is usually capable of holding more than a quart of oil. It may never drip in your garage since it will tend to spill out oil when you accelerate, deaccelerate, hit a hump in the road (ever notice the black spot right after a hump.. that's oil dripping.) It isn't like old cars where any drip from the engine went straight to the ground under the engine. On a modern car you may not notice oil dripping until you're doing an oil change and you drop the undertray - and a quart of oil or so spills out on you.

A sudden increase in oil consumption means something is wrong - it's time to get it looked at (despite a dealer's claim that 1-quart/1,000 miles is fine.. if it suddenly increased - somethings wrong.)

Wisconsin Joe

Out of curiosity, do you have some documentation on this?

I did a quick search and couldn't find anything.

I had never heard of this before. The undertray does a bit for protection, but what it mostly does is clean up the airflow under the car. That reduces drag and increases fuel economy.

I was always under the impression that it was a cheap & easy way to boost fuel economy, especially at highway speeds.

BenCD

This is the same line of thinking by those who believe that the underhood mats are designed to drop down when there is a fire to help extinguish the blaze under the hood=FALSE.

Same with the under-tray. To think it can hold a quart of oil is to smoke the best now-legal pot the world has to offer and believe it.

stronbl

When mine was leaking (original engine) it was very slight, see pic. Never enough to register on the oil level gauge but enough to see on the underbody panel. Never a drop on the garage floor.

Newly replaced engine is dry as can be ... runs great too.

alexaqui

Was it hard to get the dealer to look at it thoroughly? I've been getting my car serviced outside of the dealer these days (first 50k at the dealer, since then at my local high end indy). I got tired of paying 2x...

I'm debating if I get the oil change done at my indy and have them do a quick look before I go to the dealer. No reason throwing away $300 extra for an oil and fuel filter change at the dealer even if I want them to investigate this...

How long was your car out of commission?

RS-America

Dealer said they were still working on this and a few other items. Said they were definitely going to reseal the oil pan and have the same Tech start documenting the oil usage. Will post again status when they finish and we get Otis back.

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stronbl

In my case, I do my own oil changes and the dealer knows this. So of course they question if I didn't tighten something correctly. So we cleaned it up at the dealer and I drove for another 3 weeks and came back ... leak was there. Also note the Porsche has a very detailed procedure for differentiating between a leak and a seep. A leak gets fixed, a seep does not.

Went through the procedure and eventually got PAG to agree to a new engine. I had a couple loaners and the whole process was about 6-7 weeks. It was great to get my CD back, although the loaners were Porsche, eventually you just want your vehicle back.

alexaqui

This may be a silly question.... is that pic from the top or the bottom? I'm taking the car in to my indy who has been doing oil changes for me and I want him to take a look before I go to the dealer. I assume it is visible once the tray is removed?

Thanks.

stronbl

Bottom. It's the area where the transmission joins the engine, bell housing. The oil has run down to the lowest point. The actual leak is much higher up and really only visible once the engine is removed. There is a cast mark used in the manufacture process where they use a hooked chain to lift it out of the casting mold. My Service Manager ended up taking the whole engine apart and we found what appears to be a crack in this section. It is on the inside of the engine and not repairable. Most likely a fluke in the casting of the block.

chsu74

I pulled my bottom tray off this afternoon and discovered this. Anyone can share the TSB?

Thanks

stronbl

Yours (picture with oil) looks very similar to mine. I don't recall a TSB on this, maybe there is one now. But in my case (see comments above in this post) it was a multi-step process.
1. Dealer cleans up all the oil they can see so they can attest no oil drips. Off you go and come back later - in my case 3 weeks later.
2. Dealer looks at it and if they see oil again, then they follow the next part of the process. If no oil, they send you away and you are happy because you don't have a leak.
Also in part 2, they look and take pictures of the under body panels. If there is no oil on the panels then they say you only have a seep, not a leak and they do not fix anything, but may clean it up again for you. If they do see oil on the panels, then they take pictures to document it and confirm you have a leak.
3. Dealer asks you to leave the vehicle (hopefully you get a loaner) or you schedule at time to come back and get a loaner.
4. They drop the engine and transmission and start taking it apart to attempt to determine where it is leaking. In my case they thought it was the bell housing area. Ordered a new bell housing from Germany. Replaced it and put everything back together. Hope it is fixed now.

Next part is specific to my case.
5. Did my oil change next time as required and found same area leaking again.
6. Took it back in and got a loaner. Service department took engine and transmission out again and took it apart, found a defect in the internal cast iron mold (where the engine is originally lifted out of the cast - hook area - and argued that was an internal leak area and not repairable. PAG agreed and sent me a new engine.
7. Put it back together and picked it up - 20,000 miles ago and no leak, no oil, all is good. But it was a long, long time and process from start to finish, at least it is fixed.

chsu74

Thank you for the details. It will certainly help me as I drive only 5-6K miles per year. The underbody panels definitely have oil residue.

Looks like I have to put more miles on so driving up to Montreal in 2 weeks to get this show on the road..