What to do when the fuel door won't open?
01-10-2017, 01:34 PM
#16
Instructor
Thread Starter
Looking back over the posts here, I'm beginning to wonder about the accuracy of the meter on my 12V load-tester. If Dielenberger's graph indicates 12.7 for a full charge, maybe his volts are bigger than mine. Or it could be the Princess Auto gauge.
01-16-2017, 02:31 PM
#17
Instructor
Thread Starter
It was the switch
I pulled out the switch and hooked the lead to the rear hatch release, and the fuel filler door popped open without complaint.
So the question is where is the best place to locate a replacement switch to fit a 1st gen Cayenne?
Unless someone knows how I can refurbish this one. BTW: the contacts look fine with no evidence of corrosion.
So the question is where is the best place to locate a replacement switch to fit a 1st gen Cayenne?
Unless someone knows how I can refurbish this one. BTW: the contacts look fine with no evidence of corrosion.
01-16-2017, 03:29 PM
#18
The V8 Porschephile
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Two possibilities here:
1) Connector on wiring harness is broken or oxidized; preventing good contact with the switch leads.
2) Switch contacts within are oxidized or compromised.
If you manage to open the switch housing without breaking the plastic tabs, remove the metal contacts and rub the surfaces on some aluminum foil. You can also try using electrical contact cleaner followed by small dabs of conductive lubricant.
The contacts may look fine visually however, they may be oxidized. The location of the switch on the lower portion of the inner door card can invite contact with rain, snow & slush vapors.
1) Connector on wiring harness is broken or oxidized; preventing good contact with the switch leads.
2) Switch contacts within are oxidized or compromised.
If you manage to open the switch housing without breaking the plastic tabs, remove the metal contacts and rub the surfaces on some aluminum foil. You can also try using electrical contact cleaner followed by small dabs of conductive lubricant.
The contacts may look fine visually however, they may be oxidized. The location of the switch on the lower portion of the inner door card can invite contact with rain, snow & slush vapors.
01-16-2017, 04:05 PM
#19
Agree with Andy E... you don't have to have visible oxidation to have a bad electrical connection. Just sitting in one spot for 5 years or more can leave you with a compromised electrical connection that LOOKS clean. Just the act of disconnecting and re-connecting the wires to the switch may be all you need to solve the problem. For a long-term fix, the best product I've ever encountered is Caig Labs DeoxiT Red... this has cleaners and preservers that last for decades after application. Used by the Navy on electronics to prevent these sorts of problems that are much more prevalent in high numidity locations (like on ships), especially on or near oceans. This was the best thing I ever used on older 911 fust blocks that would have problems with screw terminals on the bottom loosening from heating/cooling expansion/contraction cycles that would cause insulation to melt back a little from the bare ends of wires (specific circuits) entering the screw-terminals on the bottom of the fuse block. It was also great on the fuses themselves with their exposed conductors. Those exposed conductors would oxidize over time, raising resitance (and heat) a little at the contact points. I never had another fuse block problem on the '78 911 I owned for 30 years after applying the DeoxiT when the car was just 3 years old and already had some melted insulation on 2 circuits. Great stuff, but not cheap, probably in the $15 on Amazon for 5 ounce spray can. Spray goes on, carrier evaporates leaving DeoxiT behind... it bonds with the metal and seals air out of the connection for decades. It is NON CONDUCTIVE so over-spraying onto electrical components isn't a problem. Works great on all types of electrical connections, light bulbs, battery posts, pin connections, screw terminals, all types of fuses, anything with bare-metal contacts.
01-16-2017, 04:25 PM
#20
Instructor
Thread Starter
After cleaning
Two possibilities here:
2) Switch contacts within are oxidized or compromised.
If you manage to open the switch housing without breaking the plastic tabs, remove the metal contacts and rub the surfaces on some aluminum foil. You can also try using electrical contact cleaner followed by small dabs of conductive lubricant.
The contacts may look fine visually however, they may be oxidized. The location of the switch on the lower portion of the inner door card can invite contact with rain, snow & slush vapors.
2) Switch contacts within are oxidized or compromised.
If you manage to open the switch housing without breaking the plastic tabs, remove the metal contacts and rub the surfaces on some aluminum foil. You can also try using electrical contact cleaner followed by small dabs of conductive lubricant.
The contacts may look fine visually however, they may be oxidized. The location of the switch on the lower portion of the inner door card can invite contact with rain, snow & slush vapors.
01-16-2017, 04:38 PM
#21
Instructor
Thread Starter
Agree with Andy E... you don't have to have visible oxidation to have a bad electrical connection. Just sitting in one spot for 5 years or more can leave you with a compromised electrical connection that LOOKS clean. Just the act of disconnecting and re-connecting the wires to the switch may be all you need to solve the problem. For a long-term fix, the best product I've ever encountered is Caig Labs DeoxiT Red... this has cleaners and preservers that last for decades after application. Used by the Navy on electronics to prevent these sorts of problems that are much more prevalent in high numidity locations (like on ships), especially on or near oceans. This was the best thing I ever used on older 911 fust blocks that would have problems with screw terminals on the bottom loosening from heating/cooling expansion/contraction cycles that would cause insulation to melt back a little from the bare ends of wires (specific circuits) entering the screw-terminals on the bottom of the fuse block. It was also great on the fuses themselves with their exposed conductors. Those exposed conductors would oxidize over time, raising resitance (and heat) a little at the contact points. I never had another fuse block problem on the '78 911 I owned for 30 years after applying the DeoxiT when the car was just 3 years old and already had some melted insulation on 2 circuits. Great stuff, but not cheap, probably in the $15 on Amazon for 5 ounce spray can. Spray goes on, carrier evaporates leaving DeoxiT behind... it bonds with the metal and seals air out of the connection for decades. It is NON CONDUCTIVE so over-spraying onto electrical components isn't a problem. Works great on all types of electrical connections, light bulbs, battery posts, pin connections, screw terminals, all types of fuses, anything with bare-metal contacts.
I think I'd better get some of that. Thanks for the tip.
01-16-2017, 10:53 PM
#22
Yes, that is a great call. I have used deoxit products with great success on many different projects as well. It was the only thing that could get all the dashboard connections to work properly on an old truck I restored.
01-18-2017, 12:03 AM
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
If I remember correctly, it's $63.00 CDN. With tax that's $71.10.
Ebay offered it with U.S. shipping for $46 USD. That's $60 CDN according to Google, but the eBay/Paypal quote was substantially higher. Then there's $6.00 Kinek fee, $3.50 Bridge Toll, gas, and suddenly the dealer price looks pretty good.
Ebay offered it with U.S. shipping for $46 USD. That's $60 CDN according to Google, but the eBay/Paypal quote was substantially higher. Then there's $6.00 Kinek fee, $3.50 Bridge Toll, gas, and suddenly the dealer price looks pretty good.
02-24-2017, 03:26 PM
#29
Instructor
Thread Starter
Today I picked up a can of Deoxit Gold in Kingston, Ontario. It's a great little electronics shop with knowledgeable proprietors.
https://store.qkits.com/deoxit-by-caig.html
https://store.qkits.com/deoxit-by-caig.html
02-24-2017, 03:49 PM
#30
Unfortunately, DeoxiT Gold is intended to be applied to brand new electrical connections to prevent corrosion over time. DeoxiT Gold only has 5% "cleaners" in the product. DeoxiT Red has 20% "cleaners" in it and is more appropriate for "old" electrical connections that have developed corrosion over time. The remaining 95% of DeoxiT Gold is "preservative" while DeoxiT Red has 80% "preservative" combined with the 20% "cleaner". Gold MAY still do the job... but don't just spray it on the connection, disconnect the connector, reconnect the connector a few times to scrape surfaces to expose "fresh" conductor surfaces, then apply the DeoxiT. If you need a little "lube" on the connector to help "loosen" it so it is easier to disconnect, you can apply a little DeoxiT first, then "scrape" the connector surfaces over each other by reconnecting and disconnecting a few times, then shoot with DeoxiT Gold again. The DeoxiT spray contains a 5% DeoxiT with the rest being "carrier" that evaporates leaving the DeoxiT (Red or Gold) behind. This is PLENTY of DeoxiT to protect the connection surfaces for decades. DeoxiT is also available as a 100% concentrate, but that typically has to be applied 1 drop at a time or it comes in a small bottle like nail polish and is brushed-on or applied with a "pen" like a magic marker (works great on circuit board edge connections). Spray can be used just about anywhere even where access isn't great. All DeoxiT is is non-flammable and non-conductive. Hope it helps with your issue!