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Ball joint was already changed with the lower control arm. Tie rod was changed some weeks before when i did allignment. I dont see any other possibility than to work from down to up and change everything until its quiet.
Well finally found the issues with my pig. It turned out to be the "supporting mount" at the top of the front right strut. The bushing was totally shot, and falling apart. Repair took about 3 1/2 hours total doing both the front right and left shocks.
was the airline easy to remove from the strut? any special instructions on bleeding it off or anything like that?
Air line is very simple to remove - just a 10 or 12mm nut and a box end wrench.
Based on what I read, I loosened the nut until I heard air start to escape and stopped and let it bleed out - took a couple minutes - then loosened the nut completely.
At 118,000 miles on a 2005 CTT my passenger mount was shot (see below).
You will probably want to replace the o-ring for the shock bracket (PN N-910-956-01 and I used silicone based dielectric grease) because the cavity under the bracket is under pressure.
Also, you will need a special tool or an impact wrench to remove the shock rod nut that holds the rubber mount on. The picture below shows the nut and the o-ring.
I only replaced the top o-ring. From what I can tell from the video the lower one just seals the dust boot whereas the top one seals a cavity that is under pressure with the air shock.
I have a small tear in one of my dust boots and tried to replace the boot and the o-ring as a "may as well" but my shock (2005 CTT) was different than the Arnott video.
I could not slide the air unit off the strut because it was connected with some sort of thick air bladder type rubber. In the picture below you can see this rubber piece between the two silver units.
Great thread! I love this forum.
Have clunk in speed-bumps if I drive faster than 25km/h. I think this must be caused by the same rubber shock mount, as the Norwegian MOT did not find any faults in suspension. The MOT is very strict, where a little worn bushing will fail the MOT and make it illegal to drive the car if you don't fix it. The clunk was not found in MOT, as they didn't test it on speedbumps. Smaller bumps are no problems.
Great thread! I love this forum.
Have clunk in speed-bumps if I drive faster than 25km/h. I think this must be caused by the same rubber shock mount, as the Norwegian MOT did not find any faults in suspension. The MOT is very strict, where a little worn bushing will fail the MOT and make it illegal to drive the car if you don't fix it. The clunk was not found in MOT, as they didn't test it on speedbumps. Smaller bumps are no problems.
11-02-2015, 12:31 PM
