Cuba

I got the pig back today and it's running great, ignition coils definitely made a difference the idle is very smooth now. Chapman seems to have done what they said, for how much they quoted, and in the timeframe we agreed to. Good work. The coolant pipes, t connector and related pipes, starter, and ignition coils came to just under $4K. Engine looked really clean too maybe I won't rush to trade it in.

Cuba

So everything was running great yesterday but tonight it started idling high in park, crept up to about 1500. I was hoping this might be due to replacing the coils and maybe it's readjusting, or whatever. The CEL came on later, not flashing, and it was intermittently rough at idle. Home now and waiting to see what tomorrow brings. What do you think, vacuum leak? Maybe loose connection from the repair?

mtnrat

rough idle or smooth? If rough could be the intake manifold gasket slipped. If smooth could be one of the emission or vacuum hoses is not on properly or cracked while the repair was being done.

Cuba

Idle was smooth the first day back, then it got rough last night and it raised itself until smooth at 1100 or so but it gradually climbed to 1500 when in park. I popped the hood and it was noisier than usual but I couldn't tell what it was coming from. I'm going to check the intake hoses, fill it up, and see what happens. I'm pretty sure it was still getting full boost and no temp issues. Hopefully something simple

mtnrat

Check this hose. The one I had duct tapped. I had very similar symptoms when it was broken. It's under the cover with the engine size on it.

Cuba

Very similar to my problem, I found the sucker but it's right under the intake plenum dead center and just out of reach. Looks like it popped out and the clamp disappeared. I'm not sure if autozone is open but I need to get the plenum off so I'm looking for instructions. I saw and loosened two star bolts, separated the hoses either side, disconnected the electrical on top but it won't budge. What am I missing?

Cuba

I got it, lost some knuckle skin but got plenum off and removed a rubber T connector that was the culprit, need a plastic L nozzle too and autozone closed early today. I host a monthly sales meeting at 10am, stored opens at 7:30... The race will be on.

I'll post some photos in case anyone else runs into this.

Cuba

Autozone sells neither the rubber T hose or the elbow connectors. I went to Carquest and bought a length of 3/8" hose, some 3/8" elbows, a 3/8" T connector, and a bunch of clamps.

I basically pieced together the connector in reverse using a hard T rather than soft rubber and used the vacuum hose for the three male to male connections. It was not easy getting everything back in and using the plenum spacer tab (bottom of the plenum to keep the parts from touching the waterpump wheel) but I got it in on my lunch break. Panic struck when I dropped one of the intake hose claps down in the bay but luckily I keep the gaurd loose for just such an occasion and wrestled it out.

Started up and the idle appears to be fixed, holding smooth and steady at 500 or so. The CEL is still on but I think this is normal and has to be reset at this point. I drove it around and got full boost, running fine.

I'm taking it to the shop to have them take a look and make sure nothing else is causing the CEL but hopefully we're good at this point.

mtnrat

Nice.

Cuba

Here are some photos, the threeway connection there in the middle, the faulty rubber hose and elbow, and my new part. Couple things just in case someone else runs into this:

There is a tab under the plenum that has a clip for the rubber hose, I assume to keep it secure and aware from moving parts. I had to removed the clip with this new solution but the tab is holding it away just fine.

The plenum has two plastic bolts securing it on either side, line up the dot on top then pull them up using flat head to lever and out and dont worry about breaking the locking tab on them. They won't come loose unless you roll the truck a few times in which case it will be the least of your worries. It also has a connector underneath with two click buttons securing it, pull the connection out hard it won't hurt it.

There are two electrical connections to remove, easily visible and obvious.

Cutting the existing clamps off was the easier way to go.

Try not to drop clamps into the black hole.

The rubber hose was soft and weak, not a great design in my opinion. Again I used 3/8" hard plastic connectors (a T and and elbow) and 3/8" vaccum hose and tightend everything down hard. The was a very firm piece when assembled.

I need to get the CEL reset but it's running smooth and normal, WOT was pegging the boost needle hard and idle is great.

Cuba

Reviving due to new fun lights showing up on the dash. The fix I did seems to be holding fine, idle is still great. Now I have a brake booster failure light on constantly which I assume is another vacuum leak elsewhere in the engine bay. Any ideas on where I should start the search? Brakes work fine and I've been driving it without much concern for a while now.

Second problem is an occasional air suspension faulty message. It still works fine but I hear what sounds like the compressor running quite a bit, not all the time and the light only comes on about half the time at start up. I assume another leak somewhere. Any thoughts?

Third problem is one that had come up previously and disappeared on its own. Four wheel drive faulty message and again it is only sometimes coming up. I'm pretty sure my center bearing is going, could this be throwing a sensor or might it be something more fun and costly?

Surprisingly the pig is running great, if not for the lights and the compressor noise I would have no concerns.

wrinkledpants

Check the brake booster hoses over by the washer fluid reservoir. Do a search to find some images as this is a fairly common failure. Either use JB weld or replace the line.

Do you have codes for the rest of the issues?

Cuba

No codes, I don't have the reader.

wrinkledpants

Without codes or symptoms of something being wrong, not much anyone can do to give you advice. Those lights can come up for any number of reasons. Go to an auto parts store as they usually scan for codes free of charge. You'll get the p-code, but that's it. Better than nothing.....

Cuba

I did a little digging this morning before work and haven't found the source yet. I think the compressor noise must be coming from the brake booster as someone elsewhere described. I'll try to tackle it this weekend with electrical tape and maybe even attempt the Jimi fix for the carrier bushing, then see how many lights I have before next steps. The air suspension and four wheel drive faults are gone for now at least.