09 Cayenne 957 TTS, thinking about buying, need help
#1
09 Cayenne 957 TTS, thinking about buying, need help
I am looking to buy 09 957 TTS with 60K miles, it is under CPO now and they are rebuilding the entire motor due to cylinder scoring. All parts will be new with the exception of the block, Dealer tells me that it will be approx 30K to do this work under CPO,
I am only buying once the motor is done and they have a new CPO for me to go on until 2017.
I currently have 2002 996TT and 06 Cayenne S, very happy with both of the P-cars especially with the Cayenne b/c temp here is -40 degree F for atleast 2 months on / off during the winter, I have not seen any issues with my 955CS. 996TT sits in the storage almost 5 months a year so I decided to trade that car in for 957TTS to get best of both worlds for summer and winter.
I think it’s a great buy on this 957 TTS with rebuilt motor but I wanted to get input from people who own 957 TT-S to see what they think. No PCCB’s but every other option is there.
Thank you in advance
I am only buying once the motor is done and they have a new CPO for me to go on until 2017.
I currently have 2002 996TT and 06 Cayenne S, very happy with both of the P-cars especially with the Cayenne b/c temp here is -40 degree F for atleast 2 months on / off during the winter, I have not seen any issues with my 955CS. 996TT sits in the storage almost 5 months a year so I decided to trade that car in for 957TTS to get best of both worlds for summer and winter.
I think it’s a great buy on this 957 TTS with rebuilt motor but I wanted to get input from people who own 957 TT-S to see what they think. No PCCB’s but every other option is there.
Thank you in advance
#2
Drifting
Interesting to hear you are in a cold climate and the engine failure is on the turbo (which I assume is from the same place). Internet theory has it only NA engines were affected with this because the turbo has oil squirters. Most complaints for scored cylinder are for the 955 CS. There are of course no hard numbers, just a trend.
#4
The block is made of Alusil, which is a high silicon content aluminum. There are no cylinder liners. The foundry that makes the blocks for the Cayenne has a multi- step process for honing down the alum on the cylinder walls and leaving the silicon crystals standing proud. The Ra is extremely important as well as the techniques involved. Sunnen makes some paste and special stones that some have succesfully used to re-finish the cylinders in an Alusil block. However, it's going to be nowhere near as good as the OEM process.
1. I would be concerned that with the depth of the actual scoring exactly how much material will have to be removed on the very worst cylinder to get a correction?
2. Will all the cylinders be honed to that oversize?
3. What process are they using to correct the block?
4. If they are going to Nikasil the block, will the machine shop doing the final hone be using a torque plate?
5. If they are using an ductile iron sleeve what type will it be? Flanged? Sleeving an aluminum block with iron sleeves is a critical process and not to be taken lightly if you want lasting results.
6. What are the details of the warranty?
I would try to talk them out of whatever they may be doing and just sending your block to LN engineering for a sleeve job with Alusil liners. It would probably be cheaper than what they are considering. In this instance I would recommend that stock pistons be used instead of 2618 Forgings. The softer 2618 forgings may be stronger but they are also softer and realisticly you cannot expect more than 100k at max before new ones are needed. 2618 forgings are not neccesary for a stock DD. You could also wind up with piston slap on a 2618 forging when cold and you may not be prepared to deal with that.
I highly doubt you dealer or their contracted machine shop is qualified to tackle a proper rebuild of the short block. A new block from Porsche (if you can get one) is going to be succeptible to the same fate.
Be careful with this venture.
1. I would be concerned that with the depth of the actual scoring exactly how much material will have to be removed on the very worst cylinder to get a correction?
2. Will all the cylinders be honed to that oversize?
3. What process are they using to correct the block?
4. If they are going to Nikasil the block, will the machine shop doing the final hone be using a torque plate?
5. If they are using an ductile iron sleeve what type will it be? Flanged? Sleeving an aluminum block with iron sleeves is a critical process and not to be taken lightly if you want lasting results.
6. What are the details of the warranty?
I would try to talk them out of whatever they may be doing and just sending your block to LN engineering for a sleeve job with Alusil liners. It would probably be cheaper than what they are considering. In this instance I would recommend that stock pistons be used instead of 2618 Forgings. The softer 2618 forgings may be stronger but they are also softer and realisticly you cannot expect more than 100k at max before new ones are needed. 2618 forgings are not neccesary for a stock DD. You could also wind up with piston slap on a 2618 forging when cold and you may not be prepared to deal with that.
I highly doubt you dealer or their contracted machine shop is qualified to tackle a proper rebuild of the short block. A new block from Porsche (if you can get one) is going to be succeptible to the same fate.
Be careful with this venture.
#6
The block is made of Alusil, which is a high silicon content aluminum. There are no cylinder liners. The foundry that makes the blocks for the Cayenne has a multi- step process for honing down the alum on the cylinder walls and leaving the silicon crystals standing proud. The Ra is extremely important as well as the techniques involved. Sunnen makes some paste and special stones that some have succesfully used to re-finish the cylinders in an Alusil block. However, it's going to be nowhere near as good as the OEM process.
1. I would be concerned that with the depth of the actual scoring exactly how much material will have to be removed on the very worst cylinder to get a correction?
2. Will all the cylinders be honed to that oversize?
3. What process are they using to correct the block?
4. If they are going to Nikasil the block, will the machine shop doing the final hone be using a torque plate?
5. If they are using an ductile iron sleeve what type will it be? Flanged? Sleeving an aluminum block with iron sleeves is a critical process and not to be taken lightly if you want lasting results.
6. What are the details of the warranty?
I would try to talk them out of whatever they may be doing and just sending your block to LN engineering for a sleeve job with Alusil liners. It would probably be cheaper than what they are considering. In this instance I would recommend that stock pistons be used instead of 2618 Forgings. The softer 2618 forgings may be stronger but they are also softer and realisticly you cannot expect more than 100k at max before new ones are needed. 2618 forgings are not neccesary for a stock DD. You could also wind up with piston slap on a 2618 forging when cold and you may not be prepared to deal with that.
I highly doubt you dealer or their contracted machine shop is qualified to tackle a proper rebuild of the short block. A new block from Porsche (if you can get one) is going to be succeptible to the same fate.
Be careful with this venture.
1. I would be concerned that with the depth of the actual scoring exactly how much material will have to be removed on the very worst cylinder to get a correction?
2. Will all the cylinders be honed to that oversize?
3. What process are they using to correct the block?
4. If they are going to Nikasil the block, will the machine shop doing the final hone be using a torque plate?
5. If they are using an ductile iron sleeve what type will it be? Flanged? Sleeving an aluminum block with iron sleeves is a critical process and not to be taken lightly if you want lasting results.
6. What are the details of the warranty?
I would try to talk them out of whatever they may be doing and just sending your block to LN engineering for a sleeve job with Alusil liners. It would probably be cheaper than what they are considering. In this instance I would recommend that stock pistons be used instead of 2618 Forgings. The softer 2618 forgings may be stronger but they are also softer and realisticly you cannot expect more than 100k at max before new ones are needed. 2618 forgings are not neccesary for a stock DD. You could also wind up with piston slap on a 2618 forging when cold and you may not be prepared to deal with that.
I highly doubt you dealer or their contracted machine shop is qualified to tackle a proper rebuild of the short block. A new block from Porsche (if you can get one) is going to be succeptible to the same fate.
Be careful with this venture.
Warranty will be 2 years from the time I buy it, they were originally going to replace the motor with refurbished motor so I don't know which is better.
#7
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#10
Burning Brakes
I have '09 in limited edition Lava Grey, pretty fully-optioned except for PCCB.
Drove this car in Colorado, now in Florida. It's a beast!
Rear tires seem to go twice as quick as the front, I didn't rotate them the first go-around but will going forward. I use the Pirelli summer performance tires. (Btw, I have a set of Pirelli scorpion snow and ice with 3000 miles that I will sell cheap!! 21s, 295/35)
The PCM in this vintage is known to get a little wonky Was originally due to some bad code downloaded from XM radio. If you experience randomnPCM reboot, just ask dealer to re-flash the system.
Drove this car in Colorado, now in Florida. It's a beast!
Rear tires seem to go twice as quick as the front, I didn't rotate them the first go-around but will going forward. I use the Pirelli summer performance tires. (Btw, I have a set of Pirelli scorpion snow and ice with 3000 miles that I will sell cheap!! 21s, 295/35)
The PCM in this vintage is known to get a little wonky Was originally due to some bad code downloaded from XM radio. If you experience randomnPCM reboot, just ask dealer to re-flash the system.
#11
I have '09 in limited edition Lava Grey, pretty fully-optioned except for PCCB.
Drove this car in Colorado, now in Florida. It's a beast!
Rear tires seem to go twice as quick as the front, I didn't rotate them the first go-around but will going forward. I use the Pirelli summer performance tires. (Btw, I have a set of Pirelli scorpion snow and ice with 3000 miles that I will sell cheap!! 21s, 295/35)
The PCM in this vintage is known to get a little wonky Was originally due to some bad code downloaded from XM radio. If you experience randomnPCM reboot, just ask dealer to re-flash the system.
Drove this car in Colorado, now in Florida. It's a beast!
Rear tires seem to go twice as quick as the front, I didn't rotate them the first go-around but will going forward. I use the Pirelli summer performance tires. (Btw, I have a set of Pirelli scorpion snow and ice with 3000 miles that I will sell cheap!! 21s, 295/35)
The PCM in this vintage is known to get a little wonky Was originally due to some bad code downloaded from XM radio. If you experience randomnPCM reboot, just ask dealer to re-flash the system.
#12
Racer
I have '09 in limited edition Lava Grey, pretty fully-optioned except for PCCB.
Drove this car in Colorado, now in Florida. It's a beast!
Rear tires seem to go twice as quick as the front, I didn't rotate them the first go-around but will going forward. I use the Pirelli summer performance tires. (Btw, I have a set of Pirelli scorpion snow and ice with 3000 miles that I will sell cheap!! 21s, 295/35)
The PCM in this vintage is known to get a little wonky Was originally due to some bad code downloaded from XM radio. If you experience randomnPCM reboot, just ask dealer to re-flash the system.
Drove this car in Colorado, now in Florida. It's a beast!
Rear tires seem to go twice as quick as the front, I didn't rotate them the first go-around but will going forward. I use the Pirelli summer performance tires. (Btw, I have a set of Pirelli scorpion snow and ice with 3000 miles that I will sell cheap!! 21s, 295/35)
The PCM in this vintage is known to get a little wonky Was originally due to some bad code downloaded from XM radio. If you experience randomnPCM reboot, just ask dealer to re-flash the system.
#13
Before I picked up my new 14 CTTS last Friday with the winter 20" 274/45/20s on it. ( they offered to store the 21s, but I took them home with me) I told them I wanted it aligned but I told them I didn't want any Range Rover/Porsche/BMW alignment toe-in alignment. I told them I wanted "all 4 tyres dead flat" and go dead straight no toe, no special track adjustments or for New England crowned roads etc" . You might want to do the same to avoid excessive tyre wear. Unless you are on a track 24/7 you won't notice that much of a difference other than the tyres lasting 30-35K instead of 15-18K.
#14
Racer
Correct, the Porsche master tech told me they aligned mine for the " aero" mode which it will be in most of the time with my 90+% driving at 65,75,85,95 mph,+++ speeds.
#15
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The block is made of Alusil, which is a high silicon content aluminum. There are no cylinder liners. The foundry that makes the blocks for the Cayenne has a multi- step process for honing down the alum on the cylinder walls and leaving the silicon crystals standing proud. The Ra is extremely important as well as the techniques involved. Sunnen makes some paste and special stones that some have succesfully used to re-finish the cylinders in an Alusil block. However, it's going to be nowhere near as good as the OEM process. 1. I would be concerned that with the depth of the actual scoring exactly how much material will have to be removed on the very worst cylinder to get a correction? 2. Will all the cylinders be honed to that oversize? 3. What process are they using to correct the block? 4. If they are going to Nikasil the block, will the machine shop doing the final hone be using a torque plate? 5. If they are using an ductile iron sleeve what type will it be? Flanged? Sleeving an aluminum block with iron sleeves is a critical process and not to be taken lightly if you want lasting results. 6. What are the details of the warranty? I would try to talk them out of whatever they may be doing and just sending your block to LN engineering for a sleeve job with Alusil liners. It would probably be cheaper than what they are considering. In this instance I would recommend that stock pistons be used instead of 2618 Forgings. The softer 2618 forgings may be stronger but they are also softer and realisticly you cannot expect more than 100k at max before new ones are needed. 2618 forgings are not neccesary for a stock DD. You could also wind up with piston slap on a 2618 forging when cold and you may not be prepared to deal with that. I highly doubt you dealer or their contracted machine shop is qualified to tackle a proper rebuild of the short block. A new block from Porsche (if you can get one) is going to be succeptible to the same fate. Be careful with this venture.