Experiment - GT4 Track Setup Wiki:
05-03-2016, 04:00 PM
#16
Rennlist Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: Madison, WI
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Thanks so much for the great write up. Especially helpful for a track newbie like myself where the car will probably only see light track duty (unless the bug really bites hard). Maybe you could add a brief section concerning the aero adjustments to the front ducts and rear wing.
05-03-2016, 04:49 PM
#18
Drifting
Thanks so much for the great write up. Especially helpful for a track newbie like myself where the car will probably only see light track duty (unless the bug really bites hard). Maybe you could add a brief section concerning the aero adjustments to the front ducts and rear wing.
https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/8965...l#post12638622
https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/8965...l#post12738843
https://rennlist.com/forums/gt4/8965...l#post12754587
05-03-2016, 05:17 PM
#19
Instructor
Epic post! I wish I had this info before I did all the work on alignment. Two more things that might be worth adding:
-Aero adjustment
-Zip tie rear brake ducts (there are a few threads about this)
-Aero adjustment
-Zip tie rear brake ducts (there are a few threads about this)
05-03-2016, 10:00 PM
#23
Rennlist Member
Great thread, nice job with a ton of good info! 
05-03-2016, 10:27 PM
#24
Perfect writeup.
Only thing I can think to add is that for the 235 and 265 Hoosier setup, you should adjust the F/R ride height to get the rake of the car back to OEM - or at least understand that it will change and could add (when rear lower)/remove (when front lower) understeer.
I have a public spreadsheet list of tire sizes that might fit - and I've been marking off the ones I know to fit. I can keep this updated with comments on tires/wheel combo that are known to work for specific tires.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
Only thing I can think to add is that for the 235 and 265 Hoosier setup, you should adjust the F/R ride height to get the rake of the car back to OEM - or at least understand that it will change and could add (when rear lower)/remove (when front lower) understeer.
I have a public spreadsheet list of tire sizes that might fit - and I've been marking off the ones I know to fit. I can keep this updated with comments on tires/wheel combo that are known to work for specific tires.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
05-03-2016, 11:24 PM
#26
Perfect writeup.
Only thing I can think to add is that for the 235 and 265 Hoosier setup, you should adjust the F/R ride height to get the rake of the car back to OEM - or at least understand that it will change and could add (when rear lower)/remove (when front lower) understeer.
I have a public spreadsheet list of tire sizes that might fit - and I've been marking off the ones I know to fit. I can keep this updated with comments on tires/wheel combo that are known to work for specific tires.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
Only thing I can think to add is that for the 235 and 265 Hoosier setup, you should adjust the F/R ride height to get the rake of the car back to OEM - or at least understand that it will change and could add (when rear lower)/remove (when front lower) understeer.
I have a public spreadsheet list of tire sizes that might fit - and I've been marking off the ones I know to fit. I can keep this updated with comments on tires/wheel combo that are known to work for specific tires.
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets...it?usp=sharing
Cool. I'll add and then also include link to your google doc. It is very helpful.
05-03-2016, 11:48 PM
#27
Drifting
Another issue I just noticed. The Owner's Manual alignment spec for rear camber is -1.4 to -1.6 (converted), so I don't think you should list a low end of -1.1 for light track use. I'd just list the manual's guidelines there.
05-04-2016, 01:38 AM
#29
Rennlist Member
I asked them (Racingbrake) on another thread and they stated that, yes, you no longer need the bracket. BUT, I do not have them installed and it would be helpful if someone that does have them installed can weigh in to confirm. But, you are right, if I have not already done the stud installs I would have gone this way right away.
Edit: Based in jphugan's comment above I might have misunderstood their answer. I would assume they meant that you no longer need to REMOVE the bracket every time you need to remove the caliper to change pads.
Edit: Based in jphugan's comment above I might have misunderstood their answer. I would assume they meant that you no longer need to REMOVE the bracket every time you need to remove the caliper to change pads.
