Sway bar setting
#46
I think at 9/10s driving and track work, the rear on hard can be ok... but at full-on 10/10ths limit driving, the rear gets a little unsettled with the hard setting.
Driving the GT4 using principles for a mid-engine car, and "driving it in anger" yields very good performance in my mind in the middle/middle settings, especially when adding left-foot braking and trail braking work.
That's one thing about the GT4, the harder you drive it... the better it gets and comes into its own full character... it needs a bit of abuse to really shine.
#47
If you do a soft roll bar in front you can quickly tear up the tires in curves, unless you have enough camber to stem it a bit.
#48
Three Wheelin'
I have gone back to middle/middle for fast work, middle/hard makes the car unstable imo at faster on the limit speeds.
better to have a dialed in geo, and for track middle/middle imo
middle /hard is a good road set up mine you on the stock geo for most people.
The rears def to hard on full hard at 100% going for it , it could do with a mid way setting.
Of course we all have our own views and some want harder rear still !! which I find odd.
I think you will find once people get a more racey geo they will go back to the rear at middle setting.
better to have a dialed in geo, and for track middle/middle imo
middle /hard is a good road set up mine you on the stock geo for most people.
The rears def to hard on full hard at 100% going for it , it could do with a mid way setting.
Of course we all have our own views and some want harder rear still !! which I find odd.
I think you will find once people get a more racey geo they will go back to the rear at middle setting.
This mirrors my experience on my Lotus. Alignment and coiliver setup are the most important things. Sway bar is for fine tuning, not trying to fix broad issues.
#49
Sway bars are usually used to tune over/under steer. Other factors are alignment, tire size, and tire pressure. Spring rates are a factor but not in this discussion. An issue with any car like the GT4 with McPherson struts front and rear is the inability of the suspension to provide the proper camber as the car rolls in the corner. Stiff bars reduce roll and therefore poor camber change. The GT4 also has issues with bump steer in the rear because of the toe link geometry. Stiff bars help here. My fastest laps at Watkins Glen were set using full stiff front and rear. At NJMP I felt a little understeer on tighter corners and changed the front bar to the middle. The car felt better but was not faster.
#50
I also think this is the limit without caster effects and yet more parts and still is good on brakes and in the wet.
Mine is a fast road car not really a track car although I do 1 or 2 track days and drive round the issues.
My temps show cooler outside edge at the rear, if you drive the GT4 like a GT3 the opposite will happen and you wear rear outers more. but I tend to find this is from ex GT3 drivers with stock geo, so they are trailing BIG style, to get the car to turn in which if you get the camber a bit more aggressive you need less trail and you can play the mid engine benefits of faster apex speeds, rather than full on trail and pivot the car with slow apex speeds the 911 way.
we all have different styles and the only way to set the car up for you is a pyro test on your own settings and go from there.
The GT4 is a tricky car to drive at 100% imo as styles from people are so so different, and it's interesting to walk around a pit with a temp gun some times to see what other cars are doing, As I said ex GT3 owners seem to get bigger heat in the rears than the fronts, but ex Cayman drivers the front are hotter and they tend to lean more on the camber.
The GT4 needs a bit of both styles a bit of trail and ease off sooner than a GT3 to keep apex speeds up.
when I 1st had the car rear ARB on hard felt good, but the closer you get to 100% of the car , it just gets a bit out of control, so middle is safer and faster for me at least and can be offset by trailing.
I also had a tad of over steer out the bends with rear ARB hard, which is fun but on middle you can get on the power just a bit sooner out the bend.
#53
Rennlist Member
Torque the nuts to spec. Mine came loose a number of times. I will add a lock nut when I get time.
I will probably return the front to medium setting for next track day.
#54
Three Wheelin'
I left rear medium and set front to soft. This resulted in more play in the rear end (oversteer). Interestingly, though, when using the Porsche track precision app, the computer detected/corrected no oversteer, but kicked in for a slight amount of understeer in the same areas on the track.
#56
I've tried medium medium then medium hard and then soft hard (front rear) and to be honest noticed only a bees dick worth of difference, what made the most difference was the condition and temp of the tyres. the gt4 has wonderful balance and with the right amount of clog on the pedal will slide the rear end without snapping too hard with my limited skill
#57
#58
we all have different styles and the only way to set the car up for you is a pyro test on your own settings and go from there.
when I 1st had the car rear ARB on hard felt good, but the closer you get to 100% of the car , it just gets a bit out of control, so middle is safer and faster for me at least and can be offset by trailing.
I also had a tad of over steer out the bends with rear ARB hard, which is fun but on middle you can get on the power just a bit sooner out the bend.
when I 1st had the car rear ARB on hard felt good, but the closer you get to 100% of the car , it just gets a bit out of control, so middle is safer and faster for me at least and can be offset by trailing.
I also had a tad of over steer out the bends with rear ARB hard, which is fun but on middle you can get on the power just a bit sooner out the bend.
https://drivetribe.com/p/drifting-a-...QCuBP3h8spmDsg
"...I approached the bend at a ridiculously high speed, turned in, mashed the accelerator, and ****. It happened. The back end snapped out with such speed that I had to use all of the steering lock to catch it. To stop the car going in to a spin, I had to compensate by completely lifting off the power completely, a big no no in drifting. This saw the rear tyres suddenly regain all of that grip, sending the rear end the other way equally as violently as before. I was now in a 90mph tank-slapper in someone else's new Porsche Cayman GT4. Great..."
" ....Under inspection the ARBs had been set up in full time attack mode, with a fully soft rear bar and a fully stiff front ARB. These were soon changed, and the GT4 transformed from a scary, grippy monster into a stupendously fun to drive sportscar that could be thrown around relatively easily..."
#59
Rennlist Member
This article implies that hard/soft is the setting for time attack driving style smooth with just the right amount of slip angles. While soft/hard is the setup for easier drifting driving style to be more predictable when driven with large slip angles. What do you guys think?
I wonder where the drifting photos are?
#60
Instructor
I asked the dealer to return the sway bar to factory settings before taking delivery of a 2016 GT4 a couple weeks back. The attached repair order shows that there were only labor charges and no parts charges. No mention of keeping an eye out for loosening bolts or periodically re-torqueing. Thanks guys for your input.