4carl

I checked the ride height now that the suspension is settled and aligned .
Spec for the car is F 106mm (+-10mm =96-116) R 133 (+-10mm=123-143)
I measured it twice once with 160lbs of weights in the driver’s seat . Once without , both with a full tank of gas.
The max allowable difference is 5mm side to side. I’m glad its right on because otherwise I know I would be obsessing on it. Redoing corner balance and ride height plus alignment takes 5-9hrs and it’s a pain in the ***. carl


With weight no weight
RR 132.57 RR132.48
LR 130.00 LR 132.03
-2.57mm -.45mm

RF 110.87 RF 112.89
LF 109.57 LF 113.63
-.70mm -.74mm

usctrojanGT3

You do your own corner balancing? That's awesome if you do.

Ochocoronas

How much lower than the stock setting do you think you can go before SNAFU occurs Carl ?

jpgunn

Seems like a lot of people are saying the following Camber/Toe is a relatively solid set up without messing with Toe Links. Would love to know if anyone has spent much time dialing in ride heights for bumpy versus smooth tracks (high compression vs. low) or AutoX. What is too low? Is stock ideal? is lower better?

Front Camber: -2.5
Front Toe: 0 to .1 out per side
Front Ride Height: ???
Bar Full Soft?

Rear Camber: -1.8
Rear Toe: .1 to .2 in per side
Rear Ride Height: ???
Bar Full Stiff?

mqandil

Not sure about the ride height but a quick comment regarding the bars sittings. On the track I would prefer full soft on front to get more front grip but leave the bar on the middle sitting for the rear as I don't like the car to be too loose. All what you get from going full stiff on the rear is reduce your rear tires grip, and allowing the car to break traction in the rear before the front, and personally i don't mind a slightly loose car at lower speeds but don't care much for it at the higher speeds as it requires you to have quick reflexes. It is a personal preference. Now for the street I like to keep my front bar at the middle sitting, as I like the quick steering response on the street. Softening the bar while it gives you more front tire traction it also reduces your turn in response or steering response, and personally on the street I like the quicker turn in, and also in most cases and for most drivers it is safer to have understeer on public roads as it easier to handle for most drivers. Just an opinion. Mark

Phokaioglaukos

What points are you using to measure height? Where did you find the factory measuring points?

4carl

They are in the shop manual for the 981. carl

Phokaioglaukos

Thanks. Online!

4carl

Chris,the 981 WSM wont let me paste to the forum.

Send me an email cs3@***.net
I will send you the images with instructions from the shop manual.
Feel free to post on the forum if you can figure out how?
carl

vantage

Where can I purchase / view the shop manual?

4carl

there was a guy on planet 9 . carl

mqandil

You can also use Porsche online technical service, which is a paid service and can download the documents you need. Here is the link if you are not familiar with it. Mark
https://techinfo2.porsche.com/PAGInf...OStart&lk=ELSE

Mvez

Can somebody post pics, a link, or simply explain where the measurement points are for ride height?

4carl

Here are the two measuring points . carl


Compress (push down) vehicle at front and rear axles twice or three times and allow it to spring back freely.

Measure from road contact surface to measuring point on the body.

A quick check can be performed by measuring from the lower edge of the wing to the centre of the wheel.

Rear-axle height: Measure from wheel contact surface to lower
edge of diagonal brace (between the ribs) at wishbone fastening
point -arrow-

jphughan

That rear toe is WAY more than the manual. The specified 10' +/- 2' on GT4 rear tires is roughly 2/32 - 3/32", so while 0.1" would be only slightly out of spec, 0.2" would be a ton. Still, if you're actually able to get -1.8 camber with 0.1" toe in the rear without toe links, I'll be amazed.

And another reason people are messing with rear toe links is to keep the rear camber only +0.5 relative to front, so if you want -2.5 in the front you may want to do what it takes to add more to the rear.