Aggressive street/moderate track alignment
09-02-2015, 03:43 AM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Aggressive street/moderate track alignment
The GT4 is going in for a Motul 660 full brake fluid flush along with SS brake lines along with alignment next week. Should I have my shop set the car for max camber front and back? Maybe lower the car 1/4-/1/2 inch? How about adjusting sways to dial out a little understeer? What should they set the Toes to? Car will see 6-8 track days a year and the rest of the time it'll be a weekend driver. Thanks for the input guys...
09-02-2015, 09:42 AM
#2
1) SS lines will be overkill IMHO
2) You still have hard lines to the calipers that will make pad changes a bitch. See thread on caliper studs
3) Camber is maxed out in the rear for available toe. Needs different parts.
4) Make sure alignment is with X gal of fuel and driver weight
5) Do, verify corner balance with X gal of fuel and driver weight
Drive it first before you make a bunch of adjustment, changes.
$0.02
2) You still have hard lines to the calipers that will make pad changes a bitch. See thread on caliper studs
3) Camber is maxed out in the rear for available toe. Needs different parts.
4) Make sure alignment is with X gal of fuel and driver weight
5) Do, verify corner balance with X gal of fuel and driver weight
Drive it first before you make a bunch of adjustment, changes.
$0.02
09-02-2015, 09:47 AM
#3
Drifting
+1 on driving it first. There isn't enough tribal knowledge on this car yet for there to be a consensus on the best practice setup. But as ExMB said, adding more rear camber will cause your toe to suffer too much. For front camber, I believe I remember BGB saying that an extra .25-.5 degrees over rear camber would be good, again if you can get it without sacrificing too much on toe. The stock toe specs front and rear should be good.
As for lowering it, probably not unless it'll be a dedicated track car....
As for lowering it, probably not unless it'll be a dedicated track car....
09-02-2015, 03:39 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Caliper bolt set ordered. I'll have the shop dial in max camber front and rear and put in the Motul 660 brake fluid for now. Hitting the track at Spring Mountain on Sept 12-13 (should have 1,000+ miles on the car by then)...
09-02-2015, 05:11 PM
#5
09-02-2015, 05:34 PM
#6
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Thread Starter
09-02-2015, 05:38 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
Is leave it stock, the dick around with sway bars and keep an eye on tire wear.
Adjust accordingly.
I'll do one day OEM on RS than have a local shop at the Ring give me a mild setup and corner balance because I won't have another opportunity to muck with car car for many track days (no tools even) but if I could I would take it one weekend at the time per rake / camber change.
I don't think there is enough setup knowledge yet for GT4's.
Adjust accordingly.
I'll do one day OEM on RS than have a local shop at the Ring give me a mild setup and corner balance because I won't have another opportunity to muck with car car for many track days (no tools even) but if I could I would take it one weekend at the time per rake / camber change.
I don't think there is enough setup knowledge yet for GT4's.
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09-02-2015, 05:40 PM
#8
09-02-2015, 06:06 PM
#10
Drifting
Rear camber is going to be the limiting factor, so you may not be able to get 1/2 degree less in the rear relative to front. Have them do rear camber first and ADD 1/2 degree to the front. But again, tell them to only add as much camber as they can while staying within toe specs. You don't want massive toe-in just to get more camber.
09-02-2015, 07:17 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
09-02-2015, 07:17 PM
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Rear camber is going to be the limiting factor, so you may not be able to get 1/2 degree less in the rear relative to front. Have them do rear camber first and ADD 1/2 degree to the front. But again, tell them to only add as much camber as they can while staying within toe specs. You don't want massive toe-in just to get more camber.
09-02-2015, 09:03 PM
#13
Drifting
Manual says this:
Front (entire axle): +2' +/- 2'
Rear (per wheel): +10' +/- 2'
On stock tire sizes, that translates to approximately:
Front (entire axle): 0 - 1/16" toe-in
Rear (per wheel): 2/32" - 3/32" toe-in
The reason the front is measured as a whole axle whereas the rears are measured per wheel is because the front wheels can of course turn from side to side, so too much toe-out on one side could be compensated for by having too much toe-in on the other, the only impact being straight ahead would be off-center on your steering wheel. But on the rear axle, each individual wheel has to be right.
For a 50/50 street/track car, I'd probably go zero front toe and stick with the stock range in the rear; there's only 1/32" tolerance in the rear spec anyway. If it's more street, maybe keep a bit of front toe-in for straight line tracking. If it's going to be a full-time track car, maybe a tiny bit of front toe-out would be useful for turn-in, but it will make the car harder to keep in a straight line on the road and accelerate tire wear. But DO NOT get rid of the rear toe-in under any circumstances, according to BGB. That would destabilize the car under hard braking.
Front (entire axle): +2' +/- 2'
Rear (per wheel): +10' +/- 2'
On stock tire sizes, that translates to approximately:
Front (entire axle): 0 - 1/16" toe-in
Rear (per wheel): 2/32" - 3/32" toe-in
The reason the front is measured as a whole axle whereas the rears are measured per wheel is because the front wheels can of course turn from side to side, so too much toe-out on one side could be compensated for by having too much toe-in on the other, the only impact being straight ahead would be off-center on your steering wheel. But on the rear axle, each individual wheel has to be right.
For a 50/50 street/track car, I'd probably go zero front toe and stick with the stock range in the rear; there's only 1/32" tolerance in the rear spec anyway. If it's more street, maybe keep a bit of front toe-in for straight line tracking. If it's going to be a full-time track car, maybe a tiny bit of front toe-out would be useful for turn-in, but it will make the car harder to keep in a straight line on the road and accelerate tire wear. But DO NOT get rid of the rear toe-in under any circumstances, according to BGB. That would destabilize the car under hard braking.
09-02-2015, 11:13 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
You can't set your alignment if you don't know what the car is doing at the track.
You should drive it stock as it is and then make adjustments accordingly. I drove GT4 yesterday at small Porsche track and the car was amazing. Yes it has some understeer which can probably be adjusted by playing with tire pressure and sway bars.
Maxing out the camber won't do any good if you don't know/understand what the car does at the corner entry/exit, if you don't know how soon can you roll on the power and so on.
Just drive it first time as it is. You will be a better driver if you can make a judgement on what the car does and what needs to be adjusted. While forums are a good source of info your butt will give you far better feedback than anyone here.
You should drive it stock as it is and then make adjustments accordingly. I drove GT4 yesterday at small Porsche track and the car was amazing. Yes it has some understeer which can probably be adjusted by playing with tire pressure and sway bars.
Maxing out the camber won't do any good if you don't know/understand what the car does at the corner entry/exit, if you don't know how soon can you roll on the power and so on.
Just drive it first time as it is. You will be a better driver if you can make a judgement on what the car does and what needs to be adjusted. While forums are a good source of info your butt will give you far better feedback than anyone here.
09-03-2015, 12:19 AM
#15
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
You can't set your alignment if you don't know what the car is doing at the track.
You should drive it stock as it is and then make adjustments accordingly. I drove GT4 yesterday at small Porsche track and the car was amazing. Yes it has some understeer which can probably be adjusted by playing with tire pressure and sway bars.
Maxing out the camber won't do any good if you don't know/understand what the car does at the corner entry/exit, if you don't know how soon can you roll on the power and so on.
Just drive it first time as it is. You will be a better driver if you can make a judgement on what the car does and what needs to be adjusted. While forums are a good source of info your butt will give you far better feedback than anyone here.
You should drive it stock as it is and then make adjustments accordingly. I drove GT4 yesterday at small Porsche track and the car was amazing. Yes it has some understeer which can probably be adjusted by playing with tire pressure and sway bars.
Maxing out the camber won't do any good if you don't know/understand what the car does at the corner entry/exit, if you don't know how soon can you roll on the power and so on.
Just drive it first time as it is. You will be a better driver if you can make a judgement on what the car does and what needs to be adjusted. While forums are a good source of info your butt will give you far better feedback than anyone here.