Porsche-Suchtig

From a cost benefit perspective, is nano coating worth it for a car that is stored indoors and only driven about 1,500 miles per year?

How long does nano coating last?

How long will a good wax last (on a car stored indoors, covered and driven sparingly)?

Besides protecting for longer (before it needs to be reapplied), does nano coating protect any "better" than wax.

How much should I pay for a good nano coating job? Good wax job?

95_993

Nano coatings will definitely provide a harder, more durable coating that wax...standing up to micro scratching from washing, etc better. Wax will provide some protection, but bird droppings and other contaminates will eat right through wax easily...especially on black.

Instead of nano coating, you may just consider a good sealant like Opti-seal. Inexpensive, super easy to use. Not as hard or as durable as nano coating like Opti-coat.

LexVan

All things being equal, the costs for a professional job are in the prep and paint correction. That's where the time is spent. And that's where the results come from.

Yes, a nano coating like OptiCoat Pro or CQuarts cost more than a standard/traditional wax or sealant, the big money is spent on the time for the multi stages of paint correction.

For a quality nano coating with full paint correction, expect to spend $800-$1,200 depending on location, individual, and amount of correction needed.

A similar job, completed with wax or sealant, might be about $75-$150 less because the product costs and warranty.

Porsche-Suchtig

Thanks for the input. Good to know that most of the cost is in the paint correction rather than the nano coating itself. That makes the decision kind of a no-brainer to me.

Keadog

Todd & crew at Esoteric did the full boat on my 991 and the water shedding properties are terrific. When I bought the Miata, I wasn't interested paying for a full prep. After talking with them, I bought the Kamakazi coatings with prep spray and Overcoat. I didn't do any serious paint prep (one area on back deck with Pinbacle swirl remover and polish). Over a few hours and 2 days, I got a "very good" result. Certainly NOT pro level, but good enough for a $30K DD. The water still sheets very well. I wash it with the soap they sell, using water from a CR spotless and use a leaf blower to blow off most of the beaded water. Works good enough for me.

SC Detailer

You have a couple of questions in your post.

First, given that the vehicle is inside, unless you are talking about a climate controlled environment, the wax will still degrade over time as it normally will with heat. It will however last longer indoors because it is not subjected to the elements of an outside environment, UV rays, rain, water etching, bird droppings, rail dust and the like.

A Nano-Coating as you have called it, CQuartz Finest, Modesta Coatings, Opti-Coat and the like will last far longer than a wax, all things being equal. In your case, if you only drive the car very little and take car to wash it correctly when you do put it back up, a coating will last you for years. The coating will degrade under abrasion. They are not a halo, as some companies will lead you to believe. They can scratch, but the high hydrophobic properties make it easier to keep clean, therefore wash induced marring is lessened over a longer period of time than a wax.

As others have stated, prep work is key no matter what you do and depending on the coating option you choose, the price can be anywhere from say $850 up to over $2,000. With coatings, the paint should be as flawless as possible.
I would disagree with the pricing on the wax, because you still need to do the paint correction/perfection even before applying the wax. The price will be lower, just due to the fact that you can buy wax in volume. The coatings however are usually one bottle, one car.

Truthfully, in your instance, you could start with a full correction and a premium level wax, and then if you see that you would like to go to a coating you could. I have a friend who personally has seen Swissvax Crystal Rock last over a year on properly maintained vehicles.


HUMP

_snowbird_

My $0.02: I intend on keeping my 911 maintained with a good quality natural wax rather than going with a coating. The look of wax is incredible (ie better than coatings/sealants), and my 911 sees so little use (relative to my DD) that it's easy to maintain a pristine waxed finish through proper washing and indoor storage with a cover.

But for my outdoor-dwelling DD, I would definitely consider the low-maintenance solution provided by a coating. I think of how long crud sits on my paint through the winter months, needing a pretty thorough cleaning in the spring.

SC Detailer

This is a great option.

HUMP

20mssb

Based upon your driving 1,500 miles per year and storing the car indoors when it is not being driven, a good wax coating should last over a year. I assume U don't drive in rain or wind storms and don't use commercial car washes.

If the paint looks good and you are satisfied with it, then a good "real wax" coating should hold up well in your conditions.

If the paint needs cosmetic work, that is another issue. You must decide if you want to pay the cost of professional paint restoration or do it yourself.

My '86 Black 911 gets similar miles each year and is stored indoors without a cover. The surface looks very good with a thin coat of wax about every 18-24 months. Takes me about an hour to wash, dry, wax and buff.

I have no experience with nanocoating so cannot comment on it.

JK....Malm Chemical Corp, NY

mooty

do NOT use opticoat or any nano coating stuff on that 4.0 pls.
the shine/sheen is like saran wrap.
1500 miles a year is nothing. just get paint corrected and wax on.
the warm brilliance is way better.
THE BEST in CA is up here. pm me and get paint correction done right. and i dont use the word BEST lightly. once corrected, have my guys (in socal) wrap it. then just wax 2x a year.

David Fermani

Sorry, but I completely disagree with your opinion on Opti-Coat. Its look is nothing plasticky. If anything, it adds greater gloss and depth besides unparalleled protection. If a car is being exposed to the elements, then a coating will be a wiser choice. It only takes 1 bird bomb to reap uncorrectable havoc on your finish. Another option to consider is having the car coated and applying a wax if you feel the need for a different look.

mooty

^ 1500mile a year = 1xx mile a month. most of thest cars are detailed to death after each outing.

coating has more protection and water beading property but not the same shine as good wax. u will not see pebble beach winners with coating. currently 4.0 are approaching $500k. they are no longer driven much, espeically with only 120 units in USA they are rarer than CGT.

i am pretty certain given the criteria every pro detailer would opt for wax.

not that coating is bad, my daily drivers are all coated. easy to take care. garage queen are detailed for hours after each outing. different product for different use YMMV.

Spyerx

Coatings look artificial to my eyes. Lack depth and warmth of wax, whether carnauba or synthetics.

David Fermani

If a car is driven, there's no downside of coating it. It only takes 1 bird crap and/or insect to permanently stain your paint forever. A coating will prevent this from happening and will also make cleaning easier. It's almost like an insurance policy from needing your car repainted if there's ever the likelihood of it being exposed to harmful elements.

There's nothing stopping/preventing a show winning Concours level car from being coated. Unless you know what every person is finishing their car with then it might not be accurate to assume none are coated either. There's no way to distinguish a car that is coated from one that has been paste waxed. With how many high-end Detailers now resorting to coatings, the likelihood of them using a coating is even greater.





Not sure which coating your referring to, but I'd certainly say that these Opti-Coated cars aren't lacking depth and/or warmth.

mooty

YMMV, while many detailer are now on coatings, you can tell if a car is coated or waxed.

to say a bird bomb will instantaneously stain paint is also incorrect
also, coating doesn't provide 100% protection against bird bomb either as my DD are all coated