fhp911

Replacing brake rotors on 987 Boxster S (likely the same for Boxster)

Replacing brake rotors on the 987 is really very easy as a DIY project. Only very minimal skill or experience is needed.

Tools required:

• T-55 Torx socket -- easy to buy online. I got a ½” drive set ranging from T-20 – T-60 from Harbor Freight for about $15

• The usual wheel removing tools – lugwrench, jack, jackstands

• #2 Philips-head screwdriver

• Pad-spreader (the job is simplified if you can open the pads a bit)

• Torque wrench

Parts required

Replacement rotors (personally I prefer slotted, not cross-drilled. The slotted last much longer for track use.) Front and rear are different sizes. Left and right are also different on the fronts! Pay attention to the Placement section below


Placement

Examine the rotors from the edge. You will notice that the rotors are not solid – they have vanes of metal and air passages between the rotor faces. These vanes may be curved or straight. If they are curved it is important that when mounted on the vehicle the vanes properly. Here is a link to a reference: www.zeckhausen.com/how_to_properly_install_rotors.htm.

Procedure
REMOVAL

• Rotors often have a protective coating on them for shipping. Remove this with a solvent

• Slightly loosen all the wheel lugs (most efficient to do this on all 4 wheels as Step 1)

• Jack up one side of the car

• Secure the car by with a jackstand. Yes, the jack is holding it up and you won’t be under it anyway if it should fall but if it did fall it might ruin your brand new rotors. Alternately, place a tire under the rotor

• Remove the wheel lugs on a wheel and remove the wheel

• Remove the 2 caliper bolts using the T-55 Torx and a socket driver. (These are inside of the caliper pointing towards the door)

• Spread the pads a little bit to ease caliper removal

• Slide the caliper off the rotor. (Use a plastic mallet to help free it if needed.) When it is free do not let it dangle! Support it on a pail or hang it from a wire

• Remove the 2 small Phillips-head screws which hold the rotor in place

• Remove the rotor. note: To remove rear rotors you must not have the parking brake applied! (There is a small drum brake inside the rear rotor which is the parking brake. You can't remove the rotor if the parking brake is applied.)

• Clean surface of hub with wire brush if needed to get the new rotor to seat on a clean smooth surface

INSTALLATION

• Install a new rotor. Use appropriate front or rear paying attention to left/right per the Placement section! Align so that the holes in the rotor for the Phillips-head screws align with the holes in the hub

• Insert the 2 Phillips-head screws. Do not over-tighten. They are only there to hold the rotor in place when the wheel is off. (Interestingly, one of my rotors was missing the screws entirely. They had been omitted at the factory.)

• Slide the caliper back into place

• Insert the 2 caliper bolts and tighten to 65 ft-lbs (this is what I’ve been told) using the socket driver and T-55

• Replace the wheel

• Repeat entire process for each wheel. (I’ve found you should budget ½ hour per wheel. YMMV)

BED IN YOUR NEW ROTORS
To get the best longevity and performance from your new rotors you should bed them in properly.
http://www.baer.com/tech-center/season-your-rotors is a good reference paper