Drop the whole Thing?
11-29-2016, 01:53 AM
#17
^failed to see the suspension inclusion in OP's post///agreed
11-29-2016, 01:09 PM
#18
Drifting
Clearly we all agree on making the engine +/- trans task easier and safer.
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...complete-unit/
Removing them separately has many deficiencies - for example the gearbox alignment has been difficult for some.
R&R in one huge assembly of engine+trans requires a detailed Instructional sequence.It is the tedious specifics that matter. The "Jet" videos I linked are 'light' on the specific gotchas. Note that the video maker broke some items doing this. A 2000+lb hydraulic cart seems to be a useful piece of equipment.
I still think it is a better system but we need specifics.
For example , the combined weight is too much for a normal hi-lift trans jack if you are doing this on a 2 post lift. The JET method of lifting the car up, off the assembly - while the engine+trans remains on the floor is great. But that is also why he broke things. You can't get underneath during the lifting process to see what is hanging up.
I wish the Jet guys had persisted and figured out a specific sequence of how to do the R&R without busting things. I just cut some lines/hoses because they needed replacement or I could see how to make a more conveniently located splice.
Taunting us with "Oh ,I do it all the time" would be helpful if the exact sequence was shared.
The L.A. Dismantlers R&R video I linked elsewhere was entertaining but is a hack(literally) job.
A video of this task being done on the production line with Boxsters (we've seen the 911 version) would be instructional perhaps.
https://www.renntech.org/forums/topi...complete-unit/
Removing them separately has many deficiencies - for example the gearbox alignment has been difficult for some.
R&R in one huge assembly of engine+trans requires a detailed Instructional sequence.It is the tedious specifics that matter. The "Jet" videos I linked are 'light' on the specific gotchas. Note that the video maker broke some items doing this. A 2000+lb hydraulic cart seems to be a useful piece of equipment.
I still think it is a better system but we need specifics.
For example , the combined weight is too much for a normal hi-lift trans jack if you are doing this on a 2 post lift. The JET method of lifting the car up, off the assembly - while the engine+trans remains on the floor is great. But that is also why he broke things. You can't get underneath during the lifting process to see what is hanging up.
I wish the Jet guys had persisted and figured out a specific sequence of how to do the R&R without busting things. I just cut some lines/hoses because they needed replacement or I could see how to make a more conveniently located splice.
Taunting us with "Oh ,I do it all the time" would be helpful if the exact sequence was shared.
The L.A. Dismantlers R&R video I linked elsewhere was entertaining but is a hack(literally) job.
A video of this task being done on the production line with Boxsters (we've seen the 911 version) would be instructional perhaps.
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 08-19-2017 at 08:25 PM.
12-04-2016, 01:14 PM
#19
Drifting
See Post 1 in this link for photos of the entire engine+trans+suspension dropped.
What they do not show is the equipment and technique required to do this.Obviously the weight+size is too much for a tall trans jack.
What would work well is an old fashioned floor pit nd then lift the body off the engine+trans+suspension.
The 996 guys have different constraints & techniques for dropping the M96. The Boxster engine is unfortunately less accessible,more time consuming to remove but the need is often more compelling than for the 996 because of access issues.
The big debate has always been drop with or without the trans.- as single unit or separately. It can be an issue of equipment, experience or ignorance of the issues! I am about to drop the engine for the 2nd time (!) and am determined to learn something new so have a contribution here that needs critiquing by the experienced wrenchers among you.
The 3 part YouTube "Jet 1" by Roaring Tigers is still the best engine drop video so far. They removed engine+trans but no suspension and used a 2 post lift + hydraulic table like other Pros.
Spec Boxster Build
Like this:
or
One of the problems with dropping the engine+trans as a unit is that the rear suspension cross member must be removed .This causes the rear suspension to "spread" apart. Just use some very strong ratchet straps to pull it back together and get a 4 wheel alignment quickly after you reinstall the engine + trans.!
The confusion in this "How to drop a Boxster engine" discussion is because we muddle the two big but distinct parts of the complete task of dropping. The part we probably agree on is that disconnecting all the hoses.cables and connectors and linkages is best done with a 2 post lift. The differences come in the mechanical separation of the engine+trans from the car.
The easy part is the unbolting of the front engine mount nuts and removal of the transmission mounts.
The big question is - if the engine+trans is still 6+ feet off the ground - how are you safely lowering it ? Last time I dropped them separately from 6 feet+ using a massive Wudel Trans jack- It worked but...
Alternative - suppose it isn't way up high -suppose it is at Hydraulic Cart height - around 36 - 48 " off the ground. You need to crawl around underneath to remove all those fasteners. You also need to stay there while the cart is lowered or the lift raised to deal with all the hang-ups.Example - the fuel flow & return lines are hooked over the E-brake cable on the firewall, the brittle oil filler tube and the dipstick tube.These are examples of the tedious details seldom mentioned but are a real nuisance if you are unaware of them.
If you decide to try the hydraulic cart+ 2 post lift method - which cart and why and how much? Hydraulic carts that are long enough for the engine+trans and have sufficient weight capacity are around $800 - search for and use as a benchmark- Vestil CART-1000-TS. It has a table length almost 48". You'll need to make a wood cradle(separate post subject).
The alternative to discuss is the HF Motorcycle Lift Table .No, not the Jack, the m/c Lift TABLE It is 1000 lbs capacity,with a coupon is $299 (search hard !)
!Motorcycle Lift Table, 1000 Lb. Capacity
It has big steel retractable casters is plenty long(remove the flappy ramp- just 2 pins) and use the tire vise to clamp the trans.
Problems -
1. it is HF ! - so spend an extra $500 on the cart linked above ?
2. It is only 29" high - so make a tall cradle that avoids the need to remove the headers.!Wood is cheap.
Where do you store it after use? Sell it for $300 and buy another if you need to?
What do you think ?Better, have you used this exact method? What am I missing?
What they do not show is the equipment and technique required to do this.Obviously the weight+size is too much for a tall trans jack.
What would work well is an old fashioned floor pit nd then lift the body off the engine+trans+suspension.
The 996 guys have different constraints & techniques for dropping the M96. The Boxster engine is unfortunately less accessible,more time consuming to remove but the need is often more compelling than for the 996 because of access issues.
The big debate has always been drop with or without the trans.- as single unit or separately. It can be an issue of equipment, experience or ignorance of the issues! I am about to drop the engine for the 2nd time (!) and am determined to learn something new so have a contribution here that needs critiquing by the experienced wrenchers among you.
The 3 part YouTube "Jet 1" by Roaring Tigers is still the best engine drop video so far. They removed engine+trans but no suspension and used a 2 post lift + hydraulic table like other Pros.
Like this:
or
One of the problems with dropping the engine+trans as a unit is that the rear suspension cross member must be removed .This causes the rear suspension to "spread" apart. Just use some very strong ratchet straps to pull it back together and get a 4 wheel alignment quickly after you reinstall the engine + trans.!
The confusion in this "How to drop a Boxster engine" discussion is because we muddle the two big but distinct parts of the complete task of dropping. The part we probably agree on is that disconnecting all the hoses.cables and connectors and linkages is best done with a 2 post lift. The differences come in the mechanical separation of the engine+trans from the car.
The easy part is the unbolting of the front engine mount nuts and removal of the transmission mounts.
The big question is - if the engine+trans is still 6+ feet off the ground - how are you safely lowering it ? Last time I dropped them separately from 6 feet+ using a massive Wudel Trans jack- It worked but...
Alternative - suppose it isn't way up high -suppose it is at Hydraulic Cart height - around 36 - 48 " off the ground. You need to crawl around underneath to remove all those fasteners. You also need to stay there while the cart is lowered or the lift raised to deal with all the hang-ups.Example - the fuel flow & return lines are hooked over the E-brake cable on the firewall, the brittle oil filler tube and the dipstick tube.These are examples of the tedious details seldom mentioned but are a real nuisance if you are unaware of them.
If you decide to try the hydraulic cart+ 2 post lift method - which cart and why and how much? Hydraulic carts that are long enough for the engine+trans and have sufficient weight capacity are around $800 - search for and use as a benchmark- Vestil CART-1000-TS. It has a table length almost 48". You'll need to make a wood cradle(separate post subject).
The alternative to discuss is the HF Motorcycle Lift Table .No, not the Jack, the m/c Lift TABLE It is 1000 lbs capacity,with a coupon is $299 (search hard !)
!Motorcycle Lift Table, 1000 Lb. Capacity
It has big steel retractable casters is plenty long(remove the flappy ramp- just 2 pins) and use the tire vise to clamp the trans.
Problems -
1. it is HF ! - so spend an extra $500 on the cart linked above ?
2. It is only 29" high - so make a tall cradle that avoids the need to remove the headers.!Wood is cheap.
Where do you store it after use? Sell it for $300 and buy another if you need to?
What do you think ?Better, have you used this exact method? What am I missing?
Last edited by Schnell Gelb; 03-27-2017 at 08:31 PM.
08-19-2017, 04:37 PM
#20
Drifting
Hi all. I was pointed to this thread from the 996 forum. For one more data point, I just dropped my engine and transmission the other day using a Harbor Freight motorcycle lift table, and at least on a 996, it is a great way to go. It was easy for me since I already had the lift table and a two post low rise lift. Just one more option available to us enthusiasts. I can say with certainty that it works and works well. No extra parts were broken in the process, by the way. So, this isn't specific to the Boxster, but I don't have any doubt you can make it work there too.
08-19-2017, 05:40 PM
#21
Rennlist Member
Engine 1st
08-23-2017, 10:22 AM
#22
Race Director
I just recently swapped a 3.2 into my 99 boxster. We did it with a scissor lift, which complicated things a bit. On jackstands or with a 2 post lift, there is zero reason to remove the tranny beforehand. Just use the harborfreight hydraulic lift table.
Now, with the scissor lift crossbar in the way, we removed on side of the suspension subframe and the motor slid in easily.
Dropping motor out was a 3.5 hour affair with 3 people working slowly. First time for me on the boxster. Now I could probably cut that down to about 2 hours 45.
Now, with the scissor lift crossbar in the way, we removed on side of the suspension subframe and the motor slid in easily.
Dropping motor out was a 3.5 hour affair with 3 people working slowly. First time for me on the boxster. Now I could probably cut that down to about 2 hours 45.
08-23-2017, 06:17 PM
#23
Drifting
If you remove the "crossbar" you will need a 4 wheel alignment - which is O.K. as long as you do it promptly after the engine+trans is back in place.
One little 'while you are in there' upgrade is to make a very precise/accurate "Ernie Bar" before you remove the crossbar. This may help restore the alignment much closer to original. In my case it meant I could do the shake-down driving without uneven tire wear.
One little 'while you are in there' upgrade is to make a very precise/accurate "Ernie Bar" before you remove the crossbar. This may help restore the alignment much closer to original. In my case it meant I could do the shake-down driving without uneven tire wear.
11-11-2018, 11:18 AM
#24
2nd Gear
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Hi ByProDriver,
From the picture it looks like you dropped the engine from your yellow Box, on jack stands to a roll away cart. How high did you have to raise the rear?
Thx
Gary
From the picture it looks like you dropped the engine from your yellow Box, on jack stands to a roll away cart. How high did you have to raise the rear?
Thx
Gary