martsink

Wow that looks like an awesome ride. Yeah, im still waiting on the Renegade kit so all my engine parts are still waiting bo be picked up from Buffalo. What do you mean exactly by the valve buckets, and why is it a good idea to change them to LS6? Do you by any chance mean the plastic guides around the lifters? Sorry for my ignorance.

As for the harness, I think ill try to convert an LS1 harness myself. I would prefer getting familiar with wiring, and save a few bucks in the process.

white out

Doing wiring yourself? You are a patient man. That is a good way to save a few hundred.

Yeah, the plastic guides. I was wrong, LS2 style. They are stronger than the previous style and cost a grand total of $16 to upgrade.

martsink

Thanks for the info! I guess it doesn't hurt to add them to my already massive rockauto cart

martsink

There’s still no word on the status of the mounting kit, so I guess for now I just have to suck it up and wait. Today I started cutting the engine compartment to make clearance for the engine. It was a lot harder than I thought, the sheet metal is reinforced and having the car on jack stands does not provide enough room. I found it was easier to first drill out all the tack welds on the reinforcements to detach them from the actual sheet metal. This makes cutting and bending away the metal much easier. There was quite a bit of water in the enclosed compartment, which got me a little worried, but thankfully there was no rust.

Today I only had enough time to do a rough cut on the left side, but hopefully tomorrow I can finish it up if I can find my rotary tools. I also plan on making a reinforcement brace to replace all the missing sheet metal and also make relocation bracket for the e-brake.

martsink

Today I managed to finish cutting up the engine bay. It took much longer than I had planned. Make sure you have all the right tools before you begin this one; a rotary tool and an angle grinder a must. If you don’t have a car lift, expect to spend 4-6 hours in there. I would also suggest drilling out all the tack welds first, that way you can just pull some metal off.

Tomorrow I’m picking up a flat steel bar for a brace. I will have to stiffen up the chassis to make up for all the sheet metal that’s been cut. The hand brake splitter will also mount to the brace.

halo777

Cool!

vijen6

You guys are so lucky this is even an option. Sucks for us folks living in the nanny state of CA.

martsink

Hey guys,

I just spoke to Renegade yesterday, the kit should be on its way next week! I also started fabricating the reinforcement plate to replace all that metal that I cut out, but I have no pictures to show you. I probably won't be welding it in until I get weld-thru primer and good aerosol 2K primer. I might also get some seam sealer to seal the welds and keep the moisture out. There was a whole bunch of water inside the body when I was cutting it up, so just want to make sure the reinforcement plate doesn't rust.

Since it's been a little slow lately, I decided to run up the total for my build up to this point. You can find the updated BOM here. This does not include everything, I still need: seats, brake lines, starter, alternator, belt, power steering fittings, headlights, water pump, water hoses, and whatever else I'm forgetting.

martsink

The kit finally arrived and this morning I was able pick up all my parts from the Niagara Falls mailbox. In total 21 packages! Had to pay $150 to the mailbox facility in storage fees while I way waiting on the delayed Renegade Hybrids kit and an additional $460 in border taxes.

There are still a few little things that I will have to buy as I go, but the majority of parts are here. Tomorrow I will begin on the motor assembly and possibly fit the renegade kit to see where everything goes.

My first impressions of the Renegade kit are mixed. The packaging was horrible! The boxes looked like they've been reused about a dozen times, and two of them had holes the size of a grown mans fist. I just hope that nothing fell out in transit. The overall quality looks pretty good, the welds look nice and the paint finish is excellent. All the hardware came in one huge bag with no labels or instructions. I feel like I will have to spend some time figuring out which bolts go where.

The Kennedy Engineering bits look amazing. You can tell that a lot of care went into the design and machining of their parts. Their kit also comes with an installation manual, but I haven't had a chance to look through it.

martsink

Hey guys,

Sorry for the lack of updates recently. Last week I put together the engine and tranny. I am using a low profile LS2/LS3 oil pan for ground clearance. At 4.75", this is the thinnest OEM wet sump pan available. I had to get a new o-ring (blue) for the pickup tube, which cost a whoppig $14 from the dealership. I believe all LS pans are interchangeable, so there was no trouble there.


I am also using an LS1 intake manifold. The intake is rotated 180 degrees for clearance. I've heard of issues with the oil pressure sensor getting in the way with LS3 engines, but mine seems to be ok. Nonetheless, I plan on mounting both GM and Porsche oil pressure sensors on a 4 AN line remotely (I will make a post on this with a complete parts list when I'm done).


The Kennedy engineering adapter and flywheel look amazing. The adapter plate was slightly damaged during shipping, but it was nothing serious. The kit comes complete with hardware and instructions. I didn't purchase the optional KEP clutch, so I had to buy the pressure plate bolts myself. These are longer than the OEM Porsche bolts, so please give KEP a call to find what size you need.


I was told that the Boxster S clutch will work for a 5.3L swap, but Kennedy Engineering suggested that I upgrade to a sprung hub disk. The new flywheel is no longer a dual mass design, hence a rigid disk might be a bit too harsh. The KEP clutch is amazing, but its close to $1000, so I had to downgrade to a SPEC Stage 2 clutch for $650. As I was putting everything together, I realized that I was actually sent a rigid disk. The online store where I had made the purchase admitted their mistake and offered me a full refund. I decided to give SPEC a call directly to see if I could just make swap with them instead of shipping everything back to the store. They told me that the Boxster clutch normally only comes rigid, but they could make a sprung disk for me free of charge if I just paid for shipping. I guess for now I'll just bolt up the tranny without the clutch to see how everything fits together.


I used a pallet jack to line up the transmission to the engine. This is pretty easy if you have the right equipment, but I would still suggest an extra set of helping hands.


The Renegade Hybrids kit wasn't so straight forward. All the hardware that comes with the kit is mixed in one ziplock bag. It's not that big of a deal, but it still takes a while to figure out which bolt goes where. I was short a few washers, a harmonic balancer spacer, and a belt pulley. Either these parts were never put in, or they fell out the massive hole in the box during shipping (Steve promised me that the replacements would be on the way shortly). The Wevo transmission mounts which you must purchase separately come with a the bolt and washer for the stock setup. I replaced mine with a 75mm bolt and ground down the square protrusion on the washer.


I had no issues with the rest of the Renegade kit except for clearance around the oil pan. I opened up the bolt holes a bit to allow for some extra clearance.

martsink

Today I finally managed to bolt in the engine for the first time. This was a very frustrating experience, especially trying to do this on my own using a set of stands and a pallet jack. At first I thought I could just roll the whole assembly in together and just bolt it all in inside. I played around with it for a few hours and failed miserably. There's just too many things to get in the way and too many holes to line up in one shot.


I partially disassembled the engine mounts and tried fitting everything piece by piece. This was still a huge pain in the butt, but at least I managed to put it all together. The clearance seems to be pretty good, and I don't expect to be doing much more cutting. I am a little more concerned about the air intake situation since there's only 6.75" of space between the manifold opening and the firewall.


The way it is now, the engine is slightly tilted towards the front. I may have to add some spacers to the engine or transmission mounts to level it out.

halo777

Nice update

martsink

Today I tested an early 986 Boxster throttle cable to see how it would work with the engine. From what I’ve read on other blogs, the cable is too short and the pedal travel only gives you about 60% throttle. The only alternative is to run a drive by wire setup, which requires some fabrication to mount the GM pedal and a lot of money to buy the whole setup. I would have to get a C5 corvette ECU, harness, TAC module, and pedal. This setup is about $800 used if you can actually find it. I was able to find a cable and pedal setup from an early 986 Boxster for $50, so I decided to give it a try first (these are rare, but believe some pre 99 models came with cable throttle).

There are no mounts on the new chassis for the cable, but it’s easy enough to bolt on. The cable is perfect length and you get about 90% throttle without any modifications. If you grind down the pedal stop you can go up to about 95%, which I am happy with. I will have to figure out a custom throttle cable bracket, but that’s pretty much it. The other issue is the space for intake hoses, but that's a whole other project.

86 951 Driver

Looking good. This could be a viable option to keep these cars running.

fred27

Very interesting, thank you for sharing this.