some pics of the RMS/clutch replacement
08-12-2008, 10:20 AM
#1
Three Wheelin'
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Norway
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some pics of the RMS/clutch replacement
well, pics says it all 
we were replaceing headers as well, until we realised we had gotten 996 headers. crap.!
soo here it goes, I invited a mechanic friend and bribed him with pizza&pop, as a result it took around 5 hours until tranny/shafts was back on. none of us had worked on a boxster before, so not to shabby, that included pizza time. he did.. 75% of the work
damn thoose guys work fast!
rms leak
degrease& clean prep.
soo some cleaning and a new RMS later.
G86 vs 016R
the pedal feel difference was rather nice.
we were replaceing headers as well, until we realised we had gotten 996 headers. crap.!
soo here it goes, I invited a mechanic friend and bribed him with pizza&pop, as a result it took around 5 hours until tranny/shafts was back on. none of us had worked on a boxster before, so not to shabby, that included pizza time. he did.. 75% of the work
damn thoose guys work fast! rms leak
degrease& clean prep.
soo some cleaning and a new RMS later.
G86 vs 016R
the pedal feel difference was rather nice.
08-13-2008, 10:01 AM
#3
Did you replace the intermediate shaft housing and install the updated crank-case bolts?
It's also a lot easier to replace the oil seperator and oil-fill hose when the trans is removed.
(they usually last about 60,000 miles or so)
It's also a lot easier to replace the oil seperator and oil-fill hose when the trans is removed.
(they usually last about 60,000 miles or so)
09-03-2008, 04:05 AM
#4
Instructor
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My boxster has a terrible oil leak, after adding some leaklock it got worse. I think its the flywheel seal. Do you need a special tool to instal the seal? Or can you just tap it in?
Thanks
Thanks
09-03-2008, 08:53 PM
#6
Race Director
Never installed RMS in Boxster but have installed seals in other...
Have used short length of plastic pipe of right diameter sourced from local hardware store as seal driver. Mainly you want to choose thickness of pipe so pipe touches as much of surface area of seal face as possible and when you drive it in do so in small steps keeping pipe square and seal square as you drive it in.
Some recommend not driving seal in quite as far as old seal so new seal doesn't have to seal at same spot on journal, the thinking is if the journal worn this is half way to a leak already.
As long as you don't leave seal to far out (or too far in) this is probably a good idea.
If you have doubts about you're ability to install seal, buy extras and practice until you get one in in a way you like, can live with and promises to seal.
Also, many rear main seal replacement operations also apply intermediate shaft o-ring seal and encapsulated bolt upgrade to engine, cause some main seal leaks are actually leaks from intermediate shaft o-ring (old style o-ring) and bolts that because they're not sealed allow oil to seep past through holes in engine and out around bolt heads. New seal is a 3-seal affair.
Sincerely,
Macster.
