Spyder Autocross Alignment
#1
Spyder Autocross Alignment
Hi folks, a Rennlist newbie here.
I'm a long-time autocrosser who just bought a 2011 Boxster Spyder. Does anyone here have autocross experience with one of these? I'm looking for alignment information. I had a 2001 Boxster a long time ago, and my specs were -1.5 camber fronts, -1.8 camber rears, 1/8 toe out front, and 1/8 toe in rears. But, I'm not sure those specs are right for the new car. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
I'm a long-time autocrosser who just bought a 2011 Boxster Spyder. Does anyone here have autocross experience with one of these? I'm looking for alignment information. I had a 2001 Boxster a long time ago, and my specs were -1.5 camber fronts, -1.8 camber rears, 1/8 toe out front, and 1/8 toe in rears. But, I'm not sure those specs are right for the new car. Any insight/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
#3
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Colorado springs Co.
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997 and 987 are getting -.7 to -1.1 in the front. I have -1 front and -1.8 in the back with my 997 c2. Do you have PASM or do you have X73 suspension? I would like to hear what you get out of the front with your setup.
#4
Drifting
I found I needed a little rear toe-in to make my 987.2 rotate & handle properly. With bushing slop (even good bushings), it goes toe-out dynamically if you don't.
#6
Alignment continued
I go in for alignment Monday. I don't have PASM. I'm going to see what the max is on the front and rears before making a final decision. Most likely, I will max the fronts and add 1 or a bit more on the rears. I'll toe out front and toe in rear, but am trying to decide between 1/8 and 1/16. We'll see.
#7
I go in for alignment Monday. I don't have PASM. I'm going to see what the max is on the front and rears before making a final decision. Most likely, I will max the fronts and add 1 or a bit more on the rears. I'll toe out front and toe in rear, but am trying to decide between 1/8 and 1/16. We'll see.
Start with 1/16 toe in rear and if it's too loose bring it to 1/8.
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#8
Toe out
Toe out in the front is very common in autocross, so that the car turns in and rotates more easily. Autocross turns are often more sudden, and tighter than road tracks. I'm not familiar with settings for track days.
#9
Drifting
Autocross usually has tighter diameter turns than track, which puts the front tires at higher slip angles than the rear and demands some suspension changes to dial-out that understeer. High speed/large radius sweepers put higher slip angles on the rear tires and needs different alignment for the same balance.
I run neutral front toe because I don't want to destroy my tires, but front toe-out is nearly universal at the top tiers of autocross. You do NOT want toe-out in the rear for any application.
I run neutral front toe because I don't want to destroy my tires, but front toe-out is nearly universal at the top tiers of autocross. You do NOT want toe-out in the rear for any application.
#11
I've experimented with toe out over the past few years and have found there are better ways to make the car turn. I find toe out to be beneficial only if the car is really resistant to initial turn in.
#12
Drifting
OK, sorry, let me rephrase that...
You do NOT want toe-out in the rear for any application, unless you're a bat**** crazy mf trying desperately to get ANY sort of liveliness out of some piece of **** FWD econobox that you'd be hard pressed to spin, even if you replaced the rear tires with vats of vasoline
You do NOT want toe-out in the rear for any application, unless you're a bat**** crazy mf trying desperately to get ANY sort of liveliness out of some piece of **** FWD econobox that you'd be hard pressed to spin, even if you replaced the rear tires with vats of vasoline
#13
I disagree with you. I've managed to locally PAX top 10 routinely for the past two years with 0 toe out in either of my cars.
I've experimented with toe out over the past few years and have found there are better ways to make the car turn. I find toe out to be beneficial only if the car is really resistant to initial turn in.
I've experimented with toe out over the past few years and have found there are better ways to make the car turn. I find toe out to be beneficial only if the car is really resistant to initial turn in.
#14
OK, sorry, let me rephrase that...
You do NOT want toe-out in the rear for any application, unless you're a bat**** crazy mf trying desperately to get ANY sort of liveliness out of some piece of **** FWD econobox that you'd be hard pressed to spin, even if you replaced the rear tires with vats of vasoline
You do NOT want toe-out in the rear for any application, unless you're a bat**** crazy mf trying desperately to get ANY sort of liveliness out of some piece of **** FWD econobox that you'd be hard pressed to spin, even if you replaced the rear tires with vats of vasoline