sidwin

did my first oil change yesterday. it was pretty easy. i have my own lift so that helps too

first tip i would recommend is getting a 1 1/16 crescent wrench. i had one i used for my motor cycle. that way you can get a real good grip on the stock hold bolt. Pretty cheap since it was SAE.

i have one of those 16 quarts catch pans but looking it i thought it would be rather hard to prevent it splashing oil all over the place. so the first thing i did was enlarge the oil catch hole. then i started thinking why not place a 7 quart pan on top of the 16 quart catch pan. this would elevate the 7 quart and prevent the oil from splashing since it doesn't have to travel far and the 7 quart has taller sidewalls. then when the 7 quart would overfill who cares because it would automatically overflow into the 16 quart pan. then when i drain the 15mm bolt i can move the 7 quart first and position it correctly. much easier to move around and get it right.

cheap amazon taiwan oil cap wrench worked fine. I don't understand why we pay $40 for an oil filter. next time i'm going to go with KN. I'll probably reuse the washer since it's a pita to go to the dealer for $2 metal washers.

Thanks,
Sid

Quadcammer

I use a plain old 5 gallon paint bucket from home depot to drain oil. No mess at all. Good tip on the crescent wrench, I use the adjustable.

As for filters, mahle, Mann, or hengst are just fine. order them for a few bucks at fcpeuro or azautohaus or similar and throw in 30 drain plug washers at 25 cents each so you don't have to worry about them going forward.

Terry Adams

Maybe. Our DIL took our Lexus to Jiffy Lube, where they did not have the right washer so used the old.

Modest oil leak on the garage floor by the time she got back.

sidwin

terry,

only time i've ever seen a leak from reusing metal gasket is when they are over tighten and split. i wonder if the jiffy lube guy used and impact to put it on....

i'll order a handful of them next time. i've used k&n on everything from ducati, to 800 rwhp cars i've built. never had a problem with their oil filters.

Terry Adams

agree, sidwin. Don't know what the jiffy guy did, but not the sharpest tool.

Quadcammer

I believe it applies to the metal self-contained filters, but the 996 guys had some issues with the K&N unit.

Mahle, Hengst, and Mann are OEM suppliers and the filters are like $8. Not sure why you'd use a K&N, but if that what does it for you, go for it.

o7silverturbo

I would send my enemies to one of those quick lube places, I have seen so many bad things.

Had a customer about a month ago leave one after an oil change. Couple miles goes by starts hearing a noise, comes by me.....surprise forgot to put oil in the engine.

TurnOne

I didn't want to be the first to say it, but yeah. I'd choke whoever took my car to a jiffy lube. Any of my cars, but especially this car!

elite1

Great post Sid, I also agree with the Jiffy comments.

I use a open 27mm wrench to counter torque the oil pan. I use a 5 Gallon open bucket (4 gallon bucket would work also.) Oil output races the car 0to60 from full to empty.

Remember, there are two drain points. Crankcase and oil pan.

I use only OEM parts.

I use the following OEM parts for those that are interested,

996 107 225 53 Filter plus rubber gasket
999 707 465 40 filter tip O-ring
900 123 010 20 copper ring for the oil pan (Bolt torque,44 ft lbs)
900 123 118 30 crankcase (52 ft lbs torque)

DIY's save money+, I bought cheap oil housing wrenches to only see them bend and fail with use. Buy the cast OEM stuff.

K&N brought back a first car high school memory for me. Had a logo in the window of my Camaro, to express/advertize the machine you were about to deal with! Not to mention it was a gas efficient 6 cylinder +5HP crank!

o7silverturbo

You can get these at the local parts store

Quadcammer

I've had an autozone one for roughly 10 years, used on probably 100 oil changes over the years, and it works just fine. No need to fix what works perfectly and costs maybe $3 at autozone.

MK19

I've done these for years and on this new to me 997TT, I see just a single plug in the middle of the pan. Seems odd to have the oil in a big pan/sump as compared to all of my other dry-sump turbos?
Since I can't readily put my hands on a manual (also !@#$%^&*) a new experience.........what am I missing here? And why is that drain plug such an issue that you need an adjustable crescent wrench as opposed to a socket? I do recall that the drain plug in the pan looked like an amateur had gotten at it and buggered it up though.

TT Surgeon

I think the wet sump .2s just have the single plug.

Skwerl

I went through something like 4 or 5 Autozone/PepBoys/O'Reilly's generic oil filter wrenches, including exact model #s recommended by forums people, before giving up and getting an OEM one for $35 from Suncoast that worked instantly on the first try. I'm aware this "one weird trick Porsche service departments hate!" works for everyone else on the internet but they just wouldn't grab on my filter and I wasted a lot of time and energy going back and forth to the parts stores. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Quadcammer

wet sump is a single drain plug as there is no separate oil tank. The internal allens have a tendency to round out, so keeping a new drain plug around isn't a bad idea.

The crescent wrench is used to counterhold the tank on the dry sump cars. It is aluminum with a big honking nut on there to counterhold when removing drain plug so you don't twist the tank and break it.