nuclearfishin

OK, so the dumba$$ of the year award goes to... yours truly! So after building a boost test gauge out of pvc pipe and some spare compressor parts, I hook everything up and can't find a leak anywhere. I check all the clamps on the intercoolers I just installed, no soapy bubbles, hiss, nothing. I go to test that leak-proof gasket I just paid big money for from evoms, and still nothing. Then I look down and see the MAF connection wire is disconnected and then the 'holy $h1t' moment of "I don't remember reconnecting that after moving the y-pipe around" to make reaching some of the hoses easier. I plug it in and problem solved. What an idiot I was, thank goodness I didn't do any damage. Now the car is running great, and I mean great with the new intercoolers. I'll report back after this weekend and see if I can finally break into the 10's!!!!!!



I just installed the Champion Motorsport intercoolers and have everything back together but now I'm getting a P0238 error which seems to relate to a bad boost sensor or connection. Can somebody tell me where this sensor is located or any tips for troubleshooting? The car runs normal until I get high rpm/boost and then it starts bucking/misfiring. Anybody else have this after changing their intercoolers? Thanks!

nuclearfishin

I should also add that I accidentally drained my battery while working just in case there's something related to the car relearning values.

TT Surgeon

You have a bad boost hose connection on the ic.

Macster

Bingo!

Techs tell me it is a real task to install the hoses correctly without creating a boost leak.

One problem is a piece of hose rubber gets caught and bent back as the hose is installed. The hose goes on OK, and feels secure and tight when tested but will leak pressure when hot.

nuclearfishin

That makes sense, it seemed fine on visual inspection but could be leaking. The top hose on the passenger side (below the coolant reservoir) is a real pita to secure.

TT Surgeon

You're symptoms are classic for a leaking boost hose, whether it's a 930, 993 or a 997tt.

speed21

Those hoses up top all have an internal ridge/ring on the ID of the hose which must be seated correctly into the mating groove on the Y pipe. Just make sure all ridges are seating into the mating grooves on the y pipe correctly, and that all the clamps are positioned centrally over those areas. The same applies to the short concertina hose between the Y pipe and throttle body. That one really needs a small mirror on a stick tool to get right down under the hose to visually make sure the bottom of the hose is sitting square, allowing the internal ridge to seat into the groove properly as well. That is crucial. Spray some rubber de- greaser on first to ensure all mating areas are perfectly clean and dry and won't slip off under boost. If you have the Y pipe off just check that short concertina hose and the other Y pipe hoses to see if the internal ridging on the inside of the hose is perfectly intact and not torn at all anywhere around the circumference. To do this you need to get your finger inside the hose and pull/rub outward against the ridge to see if it doesn't fall away anywhere. I've seen these ridges pull away from the hose and it's really hard to find the fault unless you have a very good feel there. Only other area is in the opposite end of the hosing at the inter cooler end which has the push in fit spigot and clip lock arrangement. I've seen those spigots get pushed in and unseat the rubber o rings and/or the cirlip lock not fully engaged so it locks properly. I would personally replace all the O rings and clip lock wires if it were me. GL.

nuclearfishin

update in post #1 with solution. /eom

NTIMD8

You say MAF in your solution but do you mean MAP sensor?