2010 GT3 RS Battery Question
#1
2010 GT3 RS Battery Question
Folks-
My 2010 RS is unfortunately in need of a new battery. Forgot to trickle charge it for a while, mistakenly thinking it was plugged in. Battery totally dead. Trickle charging it now won't bring it back enough to even unlock the hood.
I tried searching here, but wasn't very skilled at it. It looks like some folks used Interstate Batteries, but needed some sort of drainage tube? Others said the batteries from Porsche need to be filled with water and first charged?
is there a simple Optima gel type that fits without difficulty or any other simple recommendation? I think I need to jump it thru the fuse box to even get the hood open to access the battery.
Any advice appreciated!
My 2010 RS is unfortunately in need of a new battery. Forgot to trickle charge it for a while, mistakenly thinking it was plugged in. Battery totally dead. Trickle charging it now won't bring it back enough to even unlock the hood.
I tried searching here, but wasn't very skilled at it. It looks like some folks used Interstate Batteries, but needed some sort of drainage tube? Others said the batteries from Porsche need to be filled with water and first charged?
is there a simple Optima gel type that fits without difficulty or any other simple recommendation? I think I need to jump it thru the fuse box to even get the hood open to access the battery.
Any advice appreciated!
Last edited by FLGT; 02-24-2017 at 05:25 PM.
#2
Trucker
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
An Interstate MT5 AGM should be a perfect fit.
It is a modern AGM battery so it will have more than enough CCA (760), 950 of CA, can be deep cycled many times, no risk of acid leak.
It is a modern AGM battery so it will have more than enough CCA (760), 950 of CA, can be deep cycled many times, no risk of acid leak.
#3
Advanced
First question would be, do you have an AMG battery now. If so, they usually can't be recharged from dead with your regular AMG charger. You have to use a special charger that battery shops/ auto parts stores keep on hand that you can use to bring it back to a min. charge level that will enable your regular charger to take it back to a full charge. So, maybe your battery is still Ok?
Your '10 GT3 came stock with that fluid tube you mentioned if you need it.
To get the hood open you need to pull the jump start tab out in the fuse box (top right) Pull hard as it may take some hard pulling to get it to move out. Attach jumper cable positive to the jump start tab, negative to the metal driver side door keeper. With that cabling in place and attached to a live battery, pull the trunk release and you will be in the trunk. Porsche manual describes this proceedure if it doesn't seem to work for you.
I'm getting disenchanted with AMG batteries. I've had 3 Braille AMG batteries fail at under 6 months use in a row and am getting tired of filling out return forms and paying that $40 shipping charge to send them back for replacement. One Braille tech support person said I bought batteries too small for my GT3, but they advertise that 2015 as suitable for 6 cyc engines not used as daily drivers and they crank my dedicated track car fine until they fail?
I'm now looking at lithium ion batteries as an upgrade. Those are the batteries that caught fire and forced down that Boeing Dreamliner a few years back along with setting a few cars on fire?
Buying the right lightweight racing battery can be a difficult chore.
Your '10 GT3 came stock with that fluid tube you mentioned if you need it.
To get the hood open you need to pull the jump start tab out in the fuse box (top right) Pull hard as it may take some hard pulling to get it to move out. Attach jumper cable positive to the jump start tab, negative to the metal driver side door keeper. With that cabling in place and attached to a live battery, pull the trunk release and you will be in the trunk. Porsche manual describes this proceedure if it doesn't seem to work for you.
I'm getting disenchanted with AMG batteries. I've had 3 Braille AMG batteries fail at under 6 months use in a row and am getting tired of filling out return forms and paying that $40 shipping charge to send them back for replacement. One Braille tech support person said I bought batteries too small for my GT3, but they advertise that 2015 as suitable for 6 cyc engines not used as daily drivers and they crank my dedicated track car fine until they fail?
I'm now looking at lithium ion batteries as an upgrade. Those are the batteries that caught fire and forced down that Boeing Dreamliner a few years back along with setting a few cars on fire?
Buying the right lightweight racing battery can be a difficult chore.
Last edited by garyever; 02-25-2017 at 09:50 PM.
#4
GT3 player par excellence
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
the good old heavy battey is the best. if i buy annused p cat with lithium ion i sell it immediately. never once can i not stat my cars. some i don't force for three months at a time and i do not have jumper cable, jumper or trickle charger.
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#9
Rennlist Member
I posted a thread on my Bosch AGM, found it at Pep Boys, 4 year warranty. I didn't use the trickle charger enough so it was replaced after 2 years. I was cleaning my battery connections the other day and out of curiosity took it back to be tested even though it's a few months old. They print a receipt with the test results, Cold Cranking amps was at 1100.
This battery is full size in length, so when I switched from the short stock one I had to remove the tray and weld a nut at the bottom, to the left so I could use the bolt/bracket that holds it down.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ery-again.html
This battery is full size in length, so when I switched from the short stock one I had to remove the tray and weld a nut at the bottom, to the left so I could use the bolt/bracket that holds it down.
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...ery-again.html
#10
I put a Voltphreaks Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo) in my GT2 about three years ago. It's 36 lbs lighter than the stock lump, starts the car easily, and has never failed or even been on trickle. I do drive the car frequently. LiFePo batteries are not to be confused with Lithium Ion which have thermal runaway problems. LiFePo are thermally stable. It is expensive though...
http://www.voltphreaks.com/
http://www.voltphreaks.com/