JB911

Bought what I think is the best of the Bosch Agm batteries 2 years ago, 4 year free replacement
So I brought it in to test and see if it was starting to malfunction and sure enough they replaced it with a brand new one.
if I don't drive the car for extended periods I plug in the battery maintainer, but I guess I didn't do it enough- anyway, new batt with Dec 2016 sticker, so it didn't sit around the parts store-hopefully it will last more than 2 years 😜

LexVan

Nice warranty. Gotta luv those Voodoo Blue PTS batteries.

Johnb55

The Walmart Everlast H7 battery is a perfect replacement at about $170. It has all the proper tabs for the holding clamps and even the outlet for the overflow hose is in the same place. It's a completely bolt in replacement.

Voltphreaks makes Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo) batteries that weigh 9 lbs instead of 44 lbs for the Bosch and Walmart batteries. I put one in my GT2 and it's performed flawlessly for three years so far. They are expensive though...

garyever

Maybe that Voltphreaks is the direction for me? Will my agm/gell/std charger work with a Lith. batt?

Anyone had any experience using the Braille agm Batteries? 15 lbs and plenty of amps to turn my 3.6, but I've had 3 of them( in 2 different track cars) defective upon delivery or not lasting more than a month (it took me that long to decide that I really had a problem), and all tested bad. Braille has been replacing them under warranty, but they won't pay return shipping so I get hit with $50 every time and looking for a better long term solution. They seem to have a great reputation? Any opinions there?

JB911

Voltphreaks page says some GT cars undercharge the battery (?)
http://www.voltphreaks.com/technologydir.php

JB911

I've been keeping the Genius battery tender on to make sure mine is charged, even though it's a brand new replacement. My car is not a daily driver, so the other one likely died from less use-

andrew2008

I installed a Braille i48CE over a year ago. Lightweight, direct fit
and no problems so far. Only downside is price.

I also considered Voltphreaks, but went with Braille since it's DOT
approved. In the unlikely event of a battery fire, I'm not sure how
insurance would handle a non-DOT approved battery.

garyever

To get enough PCA and Ah I have to get into a $1500 or so Ion Braille battery and the AGM with the same power, which operates the 3.6 GT3 engine just fine, is only $250 or so and all three batteries that failed would take a full charge at above 12.5 volts, but would only keep it for 2 days before going dead. I always lock the doors, even in the garage, to shut off all electrical drains and of course the first time this happened I couldn't unlock the doors or access the battery, so had to access the emergency trunk entry. If any of you have had this happen, you know what a nighmare that was fighting with that hard to find, poorly designed emergency cable that will barely unlock a trunk lid. .
Braille just seems to keep sending me batteries that won't keep a charge and then test bad? I saw their Ph# on the site today, so I think I'll call them tomorrow and see if they can shed any light on the problem. 3 times in a row and one of those being on my other track car tells me that whatever's going on has to be a faulty battery rather something my charging system is creating, but we'll see.

modoz61

Unless they've modified the design the Braille battery does not have an autocutout circuit if the battery voltage gets too low.

Therefore it is crucial to keep these on battery maintainers unless you are driving several times a week for a good period of time to permit the battery to maintain charge

The Porsche LiOn battery has an audible alarm when too low (stage 1) and a cut out at stage 2 - I dont have the numbers to hand

I've had a Braille battery that I let (unknowingly) drop below the Stage 2 voltage level a few times, I just placed the battery on a LiOn charger and let it recharge.

Towards the end of its life (greatly shortened by the deep cycling I was causing the battery to suffer through) I would need to restart the charger several times before it would finally complete a charge cycle.

Finally on the last time the clues were there (if I only bothered to understand how a LiOn battery works) I had driven the car a significant distance to my mechanics workshop for a regular tuneup and yet the next morning when I went to collect the car it was dead. The workshop thought that perhaps they had left the key in the ignition so we jump started (another no no as it turns out) so I could return home.

I didnt make it having the need to refuel near home and needing a jump again.

Got back to my workshop and connected the battery charger, approx 10 mins later there was a loud pop. I went to look couldnt immediately see anything then there was another pop and I immediately knew it was the battery. I raced over just as smoke (and you wont believe the amount) justed billowing and streaming from a crack in the case (the pop).

Quickly disconnected the charger and disconnected the battery from the car and raced it outside where it proceeded to smoke for a further 3 hours. Scary thought having something generating heat above the fuel tank!

One of the wonderful design features of LiOn batteries is their efficiency or rather the ability to deliver energy and to keep doing so and when a cell collapses then the other cells will continue to deliver their energy into that shorted cell until they too fail.....

So, ensure you maintain your LiOn batteries, if suspect all manufacturers can recondition them I believe (mine was beyond reconditioning) but keeping them charged is the way to go.

FYI

Johnb55

Personally, I would stay away from Lithium Ion batteries such as Braille and others. Lithium Ion are the batteries that have been having thermal runaway problems and catching on fire or exploding (Boeing Dreamliner, Samsung note 7, Hoverboards...) Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo4) are thermally stable, light, and can handle many more recharge cycles.

http://www.newcastlesys.com/blog/lit...iron-batteries

I was aware of the undercharging issue on the Porsche GT cars before I purchased the Voltphreaks but tested my cars alternator output and found it 14.2 volts, which is sufficient to keep it properly charged. I've had zero problems with it in my GT2 for three years since. I have no affiliation, I've just tried many different lightweight batteries in motorcycles, racecars, and street cars and just find their product superior.

JB911

Just bought a new DieHard H8 tonight-
My blue Bosch lasted 5 years!
Last night after a long drive, I started the car and by the sound I could tell it wasn't right even though it started and I made it home.
Overnight charge, it showed 13 volts. Tested at the parts store, only 378 cranking amps
Always on a Ctek tender, I'd say 5 years is pretty good.