Abs delete and ice mode
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Abs delete and ice mode
Any suggestion in abs delete or fix the ice mode issue. All I can do is to avoid super late brake so far. Late brake = taking the chance.
I miss my 997S which did not have the ice mode issue, why Mr Porsche!
I miss my 997S which did not have the ice mode issue, why Mr Porsche!
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Have been dial back my driving and not much late brake. Just not much fun when I have to dial back. If I am doing solo/time trial with good run off track, not much stress. Battling with other cars, I always maintain a distant = no fun. **** happens, panic stop is unavoidable.
I was running 255/18 315/18 with r888 (really old rubber date back in 2007)
I was running 255/18 315/18 with r888 (really old rubber date back in 2007)
#5
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
For the nsx, the delete kit is cheap and I love the non abs setup. Not sure how easy to delete our abs?
Have been racing with non abs car and never feel uncomfortable in close battle.
Our gt3 keep me from joining any battle, a shame! I totally have fear of that ice mode.
Have been racing with non abs car and never feel uncomfortable in close battle.
Our gt3 keep me from joining any battle, a shame! I totally have fear of that ice mode.
#6
Rennlist Member
It's not the late braking that gets you, it's the fast stab on the brakes. You can brake late, just ease into the pedal at first and then apply very firm pressure at medium speed.
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#8
Rennlist Member
I talked about this in a different thread, but there are really 2 issues that the 'street' abs will intervene on, and this isn't unique to the gt3, other cars and brands have the same issues.
1. Braking force is limited to about 1g - this is caused by a jab and heavy pedal and seems to be meant to allow for the friction of street tires. I can repeat this readily in my data logs. The fix is fast but firm into the pedal and you can decal much higher than 1g with sticky tires. if a bumpy or slippery braking zone you can get #2
2. Ice Mode. This is very light stopping force (like .3g) with a hard pedal. Scary as hell but easy to drive around. You just lift and get back into pedal. I can get ice mode on very slippery braking zones, or a bumpy braking zone (surface, curbing, etc). Again, ease into pedal fast and firm and you won't get ice mode. Just know the track and avoid braking on curbs.
Again, the key is get on brakes then get ON brakes fast and firm. Don't JAB them. Jabbing will cause one of the 2 conditions above.
On ABS delete I'm guessing any competent shop can remove the abs pump and straight line it, or put the cup master cylinders on and allow for braking force distribution control, or put the motorsport ABS unit in the car. Its just a $ thing, not 'can it be done'.
1. Braking force is limited to about 1g - this is caused by a jab and heavy pedal and seems to be meant to allow for the friction of street tires. I can repeat this readily in my data logs. The fix is fast but firm into the pedal and you can decal much higher than 1g with sticky tires. if a bumpy or slippery braking zone you can get #2
2. Ice Mode. This is very light stopping force (like .3g) with a hard pedal. Scary as hell but easy to drive around. You just lift and get back into pedal. I can get ice mode on very slippery braking zones, or a bumpy braking zone (surface, curbing, etc). Again, ease into pedal fast and firm and you won't get ice mode. Just know the track and avoid braking on curbs.
Again, the key is get on brakes then get ON brakes fast and firm. Don't JAB them. Jabbing will cause one of the 2 conditions above.
On ABS delete I'm guessing any competent shop can remove the abs pump and straight line it, or put the cup master cylinders on and allow for braking force distribution control, or put the motorsport ABS unit in the car. Its just a $ thing, not 'can it be done'.
#9
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Dive bombing on the 255 Tires are probably causing the ice mode.
The diameter change can cause Ice mode. Especially when late braking hard on them.
Stick with the 245 fronts and don't throw the anchor so abruptly.
The diameter change can cause Ice mode. Especially when late braking hard on them.
Stick with the 245 fronts and don't throw the anchor so abruptly.
#10
Rennlist Member
All in the initial pedal pressure and feel more than anything else. It has little to do with the brake point. Ice mode is very manageable and with time you never see it. Perhaps a couple of times in the last 5 years it has reared its ugly head on track and that was many years ago. Would also think about an early release to time with that slower initial stab which will carry more speed through the corner, hence no difference in lap times.
#11
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
When close battling, a lot of theory and what not to do can be easily erased in the brain. After one ice mode in a hot lap, very easy to chicken out and destroy the confident with the car.
Just a little complain
Just a little complain
#12
I talked about this in a different thread, but there are really 2 issues that the 'street' abs will intervene on, and this isn't unique to the gt3, other cars and brands have the same issues.
1. Braking force is limited to about 1g - this is caused by a jab and heavy pedal and seems to be meant to allow for the friction of street tires. I can repeat this readily in my data logs. The fix is fast but firm into the pedal and you can decal much higher than 1g with sticky tires. if a bumpy or slippery braking zone you can get #2
2. Ice Mode. This is very light stopping force (like .3g) with a hard pedal. Scary as hell but easy to drive around. You just lift and get back into pedal. I can get ice mode on very slippery braking zones, or a bumpy braking zone (surface, curbing, etc). Again, ease into pedal fast and firm and you won't get ice mode. Just know the track and avoid braking on curbs.
Again, the key is get on brakes then get ON brakes fast and firm. Don't JAB them. Jabbing will cause one of the 2 conditions above.
On ABS delete I'm guessing any competent shop can remove the abs pump and straight line it, or put the cup master cylinders on and allow for braking force distribution control, or put the motorsport ABS unit in the car. Its just a $ thing, not 'can it be done'.
1. Braking force is limited to about 1g - this is caused by a jab and heavy pedal and seems to be meant to allow for the friction of street tires. I can repeat this readily in my data logs. The fix is fast but firm into the pedal and you can decal much higher than 1g with sticky tires. if a bumpy or slippery braking zone you can get #2
2. Ice Mode. This is very light stopping force (like .3g) with a hard pedal. Scary as hell but easy to drive around. You just lift and get back into pedal. I can get ice mode on very slippery braking zones, or a bumpy braking zone (surface, curbing, etc). Again, ease into pedal fast and firm and you won't get ice mode. Just know the track and avoid braking on curbs.
Again, the key is get on brakes then get ON brakes fast and firm. Don't JAB them. Jabbing will cause one of the 2 conditions above.
On ABS delete I'm guessing any competent shop can remove the abs pump and straight line it, or put the cup master cylinders on and allow for braking force distribution control, or put the motorsport ABS unit in the car. Its just a $ thing, not 'can it be done'.
Ranger
#13
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
I talked about this in a different thread, but there are really 2 issues that the 'street' abs will intervene on, and this isn't unique to the gt3, other cars and brands have the same issues. 1. Braking force is limited to about 1g - this is caused by a jab and heavy pedal and seems to be meant to allow for the friction of street tires. I can repeat this readily in my data logs. The fix is fast but firm into the pedal and you can decal much higher than 1g with sticky tires. if a bumpy or slippery braking zone you can get #2 2. Ice Mode. This is very light stopping force (like .3g) with a hard pedal. Scary as hell but easy to drive around. You just lift and get back into pedal. I can get ice mode on very slippery braking zones, or a bumpy braking zone (surface, curbing, etc). Again, ease into pedal fast and firm and you won't get ice mode. Just know the track and avoid braking on curbs. Again, the key is get on brakes then get ON brakes fast and firm. Don't JAB them. Jabbing will cause one of the 2 conditions above. On ABS delete I'm guessing any competent shop can remove the abs pump and straight line it, or put the cup master cylinders on and allow for braking force distribution control, or put the motorsport ABS unit in the car. Its just a $ thing, not 'can it be done'.
You can also try changing the brake bias with softer pads in the front.
#14
Rennlist Member
I have a 996 race car that was converted from a street car and it is far more prone to ice mode than my 997 GT3 and there its nothing more than a minor inconvenience. As others have said, do not stab the brake pedal, ease on the brake (quickly) instead. Other than that, there are a handful of corners out of the 300 or so corners in my track universe that present special problems due to the pavement. For those I simply have to slightly alter my technique or line. I'm NEVER concerned about wheel to wheel racing with my stock ABS system.
If it does happen just lift off and reapply the brakes just as you would with a non-ABS car that is locked up. Removing the ABS will just make you prone to lock up instead of ice mode, not a step in the right direction IMO. Either way, you've got to practice dealing with the situation. Practice is much cheaper than the $10K motorsports ABS system.
#15
Its been mentioned above, the check out this video on ABS braking technique http://www.apexperformance.net/CartG...SeminarABS.asp I heard Derrick live at the Tech Tactics East seminar last year and applied his technique. It works and my data shows me faster.