997.2 GT3 dyno
#3
Three Wheelin'
To save everyone from downloading the PDF and then rotating it:
#6
Burning Brakes
I can't tell you what they stand for, specifically, but here is a pretty good guess:
CEngPW = Crank Engine Power (estimated)
SAEPwr = SAE horsepower, as measured at the rear wheels (actual)
CEngTq = Crank Engine Torque (estimated)
WhlTqr = Wheel torque, as measured at the rear wheels (actual)
EsDTLs = Estimated Drive Train Loss (either a WAG or calculated from a coast-down measurement)
In general, the estimated crank power is derived from wheel (actual) plus the estimated drive train loss at that engine speed.
CEngPW = Crank Engine Power (estimated)
SAEPwr = SAE horsepower, as measured at the rear wheels (actual)
CEngTq = Crank Engine Torque (estimated)
WhlTqr = Wheel torque, as measured at the rear wheels (actual)
EsDTLs = Estimated Drive Train Loss (either a WAG or calculated from a coast-down measurement)
In general, the estimated crank power is derived from wheel (actual) plus the estimated drive train loss at that engine speed.
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#9
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I think 19% drivetrain loss is HIGHLY optimistic. 2WD rear drive is likely closer to 15% max loss which equals (surprisingly) 434.x (435).
#10
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I have no doubt the operator of this dyno inputs accurate data into the computer. But dyno's can be programed to "fudge" the raw data very easily. Back when I had my Cobra, with a stroked and bored 351 Winsor, pushed out to 396 ci, with all the proper race parts, port matched,Trick Flow heads, Pro Holley, Ford Motorsports cam, etc, i had it on a rear wheel dyno several times. The race shop dyno asked me what numbers I wanted. He can input data like temp and humidity, and change the curves quite a bit.
quite a few of us ran our Cobras, and one question we never could resolve is the % of engine power lost to friction.
More later.....
quite a few of us ran our Cobras, and one question we never could resolve is the % of engine power lost to friction.
More later.....
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well, as I was saying....
For instance, if you have 250 crank HP, and assume the standard RWD 15% loss to friction and exhaust, then you have about 215 or so at the wheels. Now, if you put a turbo on the motor, and put out say 400 HP, the same 15% means now the same drivetrain consumes 60 HP. So why did the same drivetrain now pull an extra 25 HP out of the engine. We could never figure it out.
Also, I have an engineer friend, who used to do gearing calculations for NASCAR road course cars. He taught me to look at gear splits, and where torque and HP curves begin to flatten out, and thus give a suggestion as to upshift RPM. I have no idea of the gear splits on our cars, nor could I really give an knowledgeable opinion as to shift points for maximal acceleration. But looking at where the above dyno curve begins to flatten out, it would seem to me that about 7K rpm, it makes no sense to continue to 8400 rpm, as an upshift at redline just drops the engine back down to a flattening part of the HP curve. So, I think, for our driving, we generally shift as the tach passes 7K rpm, as that keeps us off the rev limiter, and drops the next gear into a meatier part of the curve.
As I recall, my Cobra's motor, which could rev to 6500 rpm, was pretty much out of steam at about 5000 rpm, so that is where we shifted. On a cool day, it put out 495 horses, and about 550+ pounds of torque. Not bad for a car all up weighing about 2200 pounds.
But then, what would I know.
All the best...
For instance, if you have 250 crank HP, and assume the standard RWD 15% loss to friction and exhaust, then you have about 215 or so at the wheels. Now, if you put a turbo on the motor, and put out say 400 HP, the same 15% means now the same drivetrain consumes 60 HP. So why did the same drivetrain now pull an extra 25 HP out of the engine. We could never figure it out.
Also, I have an engineer friend, who used to do gearing calculations for NASCAR road course cars. He taught me to look at gear splits, and where torque and HP curves begin to flatten out, and thus give a suggestion as to upshift RPM. I have no idea of the gear splits on our cars, nor could I really give an knowledgeable opinion as to shift points for maximal acceleration. But looking at where the above dyno curve begins to flatten out, it would seem to me that about 7K rpm, it makes no sense to continue to 8400 rpm, as an upshift at redline just drops the engine back down to a flattening part of the HP curve. So, I think, for our driving, we generally shift as the tach passes 7K rpm, as that keeps us off the rev limiter, and drops the next gear into a meatier part of the curve.
As I recall, my Cobra's motor, which could rev to 6500 rpm, was pretty much out of steam at about 5000 rpm, so that is where we shifted. On a cool day, it put out 495 horses, and about 550+ pounds of torque. Not bad for a car all up weighing about 2200 pounds.
But then, what would I know.
All the best...
#12
Burning Brakes
For instance, if you have 250 crank HP, and assume the standard RWD 15% loss to friction and exhaust, then you have about 215 or so at the wheels. Now, if you put a turbo on the motor, and put out say 400 HP, the same 15% means now the same drivetrain consumes 60 HP. So why did the same drivetrain now pull an extra 25 HP out of the engine. We could never figure it out.
Regardless, the only sane way to use a chassis dyno is for comparison purposes. The actual crank horsepower/torque is fairly immaterial if all you're looking for is the change between stock and mod A, or mod A vs. mod B.
#13
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I have no idea of the gear splits on our cars, nor could I really give an knowledgeable opinion as to shift points for maximal acceleration. But looking at where the above dyno curve begins to flatten out, it would seem to me that about 7K rpm, it makes no sense to continue to 8400 rpm, as an upshift at redline just drops the engine back down to a flattening part of the HP curve. So, I think, for our driving, we generally shift as the tach passes 7K rpm, as that keeps us off the rev limiter, and drops the next gear into a meatier part of the curve.
The bottom line is that you almost always want to stay in the lowest gear possible, all the way to redline, to maximize acceleration. If you work out the math, this is exactly the same as staying as close as possible to the engine's horsepower peak, which is close to redline. Upshifting too early drops you back down the horsepower curve and costs you in horsepower.
#14
Burning Brakes
To maximize acceleration you must think in terms of maximizing rear wheel torque, not engine torque. The difference is the torque multiplication you get through your gearbox. Lower gears give you more torque multiplication. Once you upshift to a higher gear, you get less multiplication.
The bottom line is that you almost always want to stay in the lowest gear possible, all the way to redline, to maximize acceleration. If you work out the math, this is exactly the same as staying as close as possible to the engine's horsepower peak, which is close to redline. Upshifting too early drops you back down the horsepower curve and costs you in horsepower.
The bottom line is that you almost always want to stay in the lowest gear possible, all the way to redline, to maximize acceleration. If you work out the math, this is exactly the same as staying as close as possible to the engine's horsepower peak, which is close to redline. Upshifting too early drops you back down the horsepower curve and costs you in horsepower.
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well, as I was saying....
For instance, if you have 250 crank HP, and assume the standard RWD 15% loss to friction and exhaust, then you have about 215 or so at the wheels. Now, if you put a turbo on the motor, and put out say 400 HP, the same 15% means now the same drivetrain consumes 60 HP. So why did the same drivetrain now pull an extra 25 HP out of the engine. We could never figure it out.
For instance, if you have 250 crank HP, and assume the standard RWD 15% loss to friction and exhaust, then you have about 215 or so at the wheels. Now, if you put a turbo on the motor, and put out say 400 HP, the same 15% means now the same drivetrain consumes 60 HP. So why did the same drivetrain now pull an extra 25 HP out of the engine. We could never figure it out.