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Shaping up a new-to-me 07 GT3

Old 06-15-2014, 04:00 PM
  #136  
F1CrazyDriver
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Originally Posted by Tom-TPC Racing
I ran .2 front springs and .1 rear springs on stock shocks with TPC front bar 1 hole from full stiff and .1 rear bar middle hole. Last Summer, on my previous 997(450/720 springs, TPC front/.1 rear bar), I tried full soft rear bar for one track event when the track was scorching hot and I was fighting for rear grip in one section of the track. I got the rear grip but it pushed. That particular event was more advantageous to have the rear grip and deal with the push. I have seen on a number of race cars they run full soft rear for most race events, but those drivers are racing and braking into the turns MUCH harder than I am driving in DE's. To give you an idea on stiffness, TPC front bar is ~50% stiffer than the .1 front bar compared in the middle hole. The .2 front bar is a good bit stiffer than the .1, the .2 bar doesn't have a middle hole as it has 4 holes, it is still a tad softer than the TPC bar overall. Of the 997's that are racing in Continental Tire Sportscar Challenge, Rum Bum Racing is the only team using TPC front bar. We like to think it contributed to their series championship. The answer for your question- I kept the sway bar settings the same with the new shocks and springs. It is my opinion that these cars(.1 and .2) are undersprung in the front from the factory. These cars will almost always benefit by using stiffer front springs to a point(which is why DSC helps a lot by stiffening the dampening, even with stock springs), especially when the front camber is in or above the 2-degree range. It has been my approach which I learned from TPC Racing to think of the effects from front-to-back and diagonal. To me, stiffer front springs not only help with braking stability, it also helps with coming off the throttle to make the transition smoother and transfers weight better to the rear. Unless of course it is so stiff that it overwhelms the tires. Which is not the case here in my very streetable car. The next track event in this car is in mid-July. If there will be excessive push on exit, my approach then would be to Not soften the front bar, but instead stiffen the rear bar one hole. Or buy a TPC rear bar which has 4 holes instead of 3 for higher rear bar tuning resolution with the extra hole. Softening the front bar will make the car spin more easily at the limit. Again, this is just my approach. Other teams and drivers have their own approaches and preferences. You have to do what works for you.
You are 2nd person I have been told runs these settings. I'm going to try them. Can you provide part numbers for springs for front that need changing please. Can't wait for module to come out for Psm. I will be get one for sure.

Enrique
Old 06-15-2014, 04:05 PM
  #137  
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Originally Posted by Mvez
Yep, I currently use the OEM out tie-rod, so I can use your's. Thanks for all the legwork on the toe-curve, I certainly plan on using that information, and will either get a whole TPC set, or just the outer tie rods.

I use locking plates on the inside of the toe-links (instead of eccentric), which I believe sets them at the same 6-oclock position, but I need to confirm.
My pleasure!

Your lock plate bolt should be equivalent to 6 o'clock position unless the bolt hole on the lock plate is offset.
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Old 06-16-2014, 06:02 AM
  #138  
Ur20v
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Are we talking PSM or DSC tuning now? I am confused!

Nice to have both switchable...
Old 06-16-2014, 09:46 AM
  #139  
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Originally Posted by Ur20v
Are we talking PSM or DSC tuning now? I am confused!

Nice to have both switchable...
This thread is about the build of my car. We got side tracked a bit by chatting about suspension setup and then DSC. In regard to PSM, I was only pointing out one car that was used for DSC development ran on track with PSM "ON" for the purpose of illustrating the lap times that are possible even with the nanny device on.

Sorry for the confusion. I will do my best to stay on topic and answer questions.
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:16 AM
  #140  
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Originally Posted by F1CrazyDriver
You are 2nd person I have been told runs these settings. I'm going to try them. Can you provide part numbers for springs for front that need changing please. Can't wait for module to come out for Psm. I will be get one for sure.

Enrique
The .2 front spring is part # is 997 343 531 94. They are very pricey from the dealer and only marginally stiffer than .1 springs(see photo for actual in-lb rating). I used them because there was a pair in the shop's spring inventory that wasn't being used, which I eventually returned. If I were to buy front springs to match the stock .1 rears I'd go with something like 350 or 400. You'll need 9 inch tall springs at those rates. If you have access to metric size 60mm ID springs it'll be a direct swap. Metric size springs are harder to get here in the US so we convert to 2.25 inch ID which requires changing the spring hat and perch to make up of the difference of a measly 0.112 inch diameter.
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Last edited by Tom@TPC Racing; 06-16-2014 at 10:21 AM. Reason: Forget to attach photo
Old 06-16-2014, 12:33 PM
  #141  
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Thank you for the information. Any idea what the spring rate is on a 4.0 ? I was extremely lucky to drive one - the car rides perfect. How about using swift springs to stiffen up the front ? No reason to stiffen up the rear ? Ideally i would like to keep using oem parts.

Btw part number is 997 343 531 94 504 , price is $ 375.77 each.

4.0 part number is 99734353181 504 , price is $ $536.58 each. Any idea on this spring rate ?


Originally Posted by Tom-TPC Racing
The .2 front spring is part # is 997 343 531 94. They are very pricey from the dealer and only marginally stiffer than .1 springs(see photo for actual in-lb rating). I used them because there was a pair in the shop's spring inventory that wasn't being used, which I eventually returned. If I were to buy front springs to match the stock .1 rears I'd go with something like 350 or 400. You'll need 9 inch tall springs at those rates. If you have access to metric size 60mm ID springs it'll be a direct swap. Metric size springs are harder to get here in the US so we convert to 2.25 inch ID which requires changing the spring hat and perch to make up of the difference of a measly 0.112 inch diameter.

Last edited by F1CrazyDriver; 06-16-2014 at 12:55 PM.
Old 06-16-2014, 01:10 PM
  #142  
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Originally Posted by F1CrazyDriver
Thank you for the information. Any idea what the spring rate is on a 4.0 ? I was extremely lucky to drive one - the car rides perfect. How about using swift springs to stiffen up the front ? No reason to stiffen up the rear ? Ideally i would like to keep using oem parts.

Btw part number is 997 343 531 94 504 , price is $ 375.77 each.

4.0 part number is 99734353181 504 , price is $ $536.58 each. Any idea on this spring rate ?
You are indeed a very lucky man! I don't know what the 4.0 spring rate is, no one has yet to let us track prep a 4.0. If someone is willing to buy a 4.0 spring I will gladly test it and share the info. I have not used Swift springs but heard good things about them. I typically use Eibach because their actual rate is usually consistently within 1% of the advertised rate and they are very readily available. I think if you are to stiffen the front by 100 in-lb or so then it is not necessary to change the rear.
Old 06-16-2014, 02:34 PM
  #143  
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Ok, I've got a very important question that was posed twice but not answered: what did you use to clean up the alcantara? That dirty shirt makes me think I should give my interior a go!
Old 06-16-2014, 04:29 PM
  #144  
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Originally Posted by ScottArizona
Ok, I've got a very important question that was posed twice but not answered: what did you use to clean up the alcantara? That dirty shirt makes me think I should give my interior a go!
I did answer. See post #75. Your steering wheel will thank you.
Old 06-16-2014, 05:21 PM
  #145  
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Originally Posted by Tom-TPC Racing
I did answer. See post #75. Your steering wheel will thank you.

Indeed...I did this last night, and it was disgusting.
Old 06-16-2014, 05:35 PM
  #146  
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Ah...totally missed it! Thanks!
Old 06-16-2014, 06:00 PM
  #147  
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Just before I decided the clean my steering wheel, shift ****, and seats, I did a quick internet search to find a factory approved cleaning product. None was found. I did come across a BMW branded product which I phoned the local dealer and they said it was pulled from the shelves. So I figured F* it and just grab the white t-shirt and a bucket of water and went to town. As a grassroots mechanic I never know when I'm going to crawl on the ground so I always keep an extra shirt in the trunk in case I need to get carry-out from a restaurant or something afterwards. The extra shirt turned out to be extra useful this time.
Old 06-16-2014, 06:45 PM
  #148  
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Not to highjack your thread, but i have used this to clean my interior for many years and it does wonders:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...r+35+ounces.do
Old 06-16-2014, 09:55 PM
  #149  
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Leatherique pristine clean for any leather is amazing as well.
Old 06-17-2014, 12:52 AM
  #150  
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Originally Posted by Modena 1
Leatherique pristine clean for any leather is amazing as well.
The questions in this thread are around the cleaning of the alcantara, Leatherique would NOT be a good option for this.

I used a cloth dampened with warm water and a second cloth to buff dry the shifter on my car and as the OP suggested, it worked very well.

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