ILLCOMM

After getting the $1,500+ quote for an all-around pad change on my GT2's PCCBs I, like many of you, decided to do it myself. Well, with the help of some friends. Thanks Laertes! After doing the fronts (ran out of time to do the rears) I have the following questions:

• Is it necessary to replace the caliper bolts each time I change the pads? It looks like Porsche may recommend this, and several threads here and elsewhere also suggest doing so. (see this page for the part)
• To get the front pads out I 1) used a spreader to depress the pistions a bit and 2) slid them out. Then, to get the pistons fully depressed so I could slide the new pads in I simply used my fingers, one by one, to push them all the way in. This was not hard. At the end of the process my brake pedal needed to be pumped, but this was the only side-effect. I didn't need to bleed the brake lines and noticed no overflow. Yet, many posts on changing pads suggest I would need to do both. Am I doing something wrong?

Any thoughts are appreciated.

For reference, the best thread I could find on how to do this, step by step, is here: PCCB Pad Replacement

Regarding the actual pad change; I suspected my pads were worn, but I was a bit shocked my right front pads had a only a few millimeters left and was severely beveled:

NBTBRV8

Porsche recommend that you change the bolts, as a safety feature. I probably wouldn't use them a third time, however having said that they are not the stretch type.

If you didn't open the brake line system then you don't have to bleed again. However when you push the pads back you are pushing the fluid back in to the reservoir, I hope that you didn't over back fill it.

If you track the car I would recommend a change of the fluid, or at least bleed them a couple of pumps on each caliper to get the fluid out that would have been subject to the most heat. Remember when bleeding start from the wheel furtherest away from the reservoir and open the outer nipple first, bleed then do the same on the inner nipple. Move to the next furtherest wheel and repeat.

Those pads are most certainly knackerd in the photo.

ILLCOMM

Here's what the right front, outside pad looks like. The bevel is real. For reference a new front pad has roughly 10.6mm.

Nick Wong

Rear caliper bolts, I would replace them. Fronts, only if I swapped rotors. Or get a PMNA stud/nut kit for all four corners and be done with it all together.

Toss those pads in your emergency spares box. Flip them around to get more life out of them. I never throw out pads that have meat left on them, and those could a least get you home from a track day.

ILLCOMM

NBTBRV8 and Nick Wong, thanks!

Where is the brake fluid reservoir?

GT3DE

with PCCB you need to flip the rotors before they get worn - and get double the life out of them.
get a stud kit for all caliphers.
take off the springs on the calipers, do not need them, makes changing pads easier.

ILLCOMM

Flip the rotors, or the pads?

P.J.S.

Reservoir is in the frunk under all the plastic cladding

tasman

Pads.

ILLCOMM

Great. That's what I thought.