MKII RS Steel rotor and Pagid R29 wear.
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
MKII RS Steel rotor and Pagid R29 wear.
FYI:
I just completed my first 9 track days with Pagid 29's
Flipped the fronts after 4 days, left the rears in.
New pads are 19mm and the backing plate is 5 mm = 14mm material.
Now, used: Material + backing plate measurements are:
Front: 10+mm and 12+mm, so 35% to 50% left. Inside outside equal.
Rear: 8+mm and 11+mm, so 21% to 42% left. Inside all 20-30% outside 30-40%.
I posted earlier that I thought I was close to metal to metal in the rear, but not so!
8/9 days is the limit for the rear pads and they could use flipping as well, but not due to tapering, but because the insides wear more than the outsides.
Given that unlike on the MKI the rotor price is so much higher then the pads I won't push further with the front pads either.
Compared to my MKI GT3 with brake ducts rear, it seems that there is a slight increase in rear brake pad wear. Increase in tire rear makes the brakes work harder? Fronts identical wear to MKIGT3 wear.
The rear rotors seem fine, just hairline cracks, the fronts look pretty beaten up, I hope they will last another 8 track days in cooler weather, but doubt it. See pics, top 3 are front rotors, bottom 2 are rear rotors.
I will run 6-8 days between now and Nov 7th and likely one additional day in Dec. Roebling, Barber(maybe), VIR, Sebring, 1 day Homestead.
Hoping to get there with these rotors, but I have a spare set with me as backup.
Maybe by then someone will have aftermarket cheap slotted rotors
I just completed my first 9 track days with Pagid 29's
Flipped the fronts after 4 days, left the rears in.
New pads are 19mm and the backing plate is 5 mm = 14mm material.
Now, used: Material + backing plate measurements are:
Front: 10+mm and 12+mm, so 35% to 50% left. Inside outside equal.
Rear: 8+mm and 11+mm, so 21% to 42% left. Inside all 20-30% outside 30-40%.
I posted earlier that I thought I was close to metal to metal in the rear, but not so!
8/9 days is the limit for the rear pads and they could use flipping as well, but not due to tapering, but because the insides wear more than the outsides.
Given that unlike on the MKI the rotor price is so much higher then the pads I won't push further with the front pads either.
Compared to my MKI GT3 with brake ducts rear, it seems that there is a slight increase in rear brake pad wear. Increase in tire rear makes the brakes work harder? Fronts identical wear to MKIGT3 wear.
The rear rotors seem fine, just hairline cracks, the fronts look pretty beaten up, I hope they will last another 8 track days in cooler weather, but doubt it. See pics, top 3 are front rotors, bottom 2 are rear rotors.
I will run 6-8 days between now and Nov 7th and likely one additional day in Dec. Roebling, Barber(maybe), VIR, Sebring, 1 day Homestead.
Hoping to get there with these rotors, but I have a spare set with me as backup.
Maybe by then someone will have aftermarket cheap slotted rotors
#2
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Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Wishing I Was At The Track
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Not sure how you define cheap but these folks claim to have Performance Friction Rotors for '10 RS available now.
http://www.performancespeedtech.com/
http://www.performancespeedtech.com/
#6
Rennlist Member
http://www.renntrack.com/forums/show...ucts-installed
as of rotors, as i understand most cost effective option is still to put OEM ones and replace them as many times as needed. i know a person who goes over 3 sets of rotors per season.
Or put in slotted gyrodiscs.
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#8
FYI:
I just completed my first 9 track days with Pagid 29's
Flipped the fronts after 4 days, left the rears in.
New pads are 19mm and the backing plate is 5 mm = 14mm material.
Now, used: Material + backing plate measurements are:
Front: 10+mm and 12+mm, so 35% to 50% left. Inside outside equal.
Rear: 8+mm and 11+mm, so 21% to 42% left. Inside all 20-30% outside 30-40%.
I posted earlier that I thought I was close to metal to metal in the rear, but not so!
8/9 days is the limit for the rear pads and they could use flipping as well, but not due to tapering, but because the insides wear more than the outsides.
Given that unlike on the MKI the rotor price is so much higher then the pads I won't push further with the front pads either.
Compared to my MKI GT3 with brake ducts rear, it seems that there is a slight increase in rear brake pad wear. Increase in tire rear makes the brakes work harder? Fronts identical wear to MKIGT3 wear.
The rear rotors seem fine, just hairline cracks, the fronts look pretty beaten up, I hope they will last another 8 track days in cooler weather, but doubt it. See pics, top 3 are front rotors, bottom 2 are rear rotors.
I will run 6-8 days between now and Nov 7th and likely one additional day in Dec. Roebling, Barber(maybe), VIR, Sebring, 1 day Homestead.
Hoping to get there with these rotors, but I have a spare set with me as backup.
Maybe by then someone will have aftermarket cheap slotted rotors
I just completed my first 9 track days with Pagid 29's
Flipped the fronts after 4 days, left the rears in.
New pads are 19mm and the backing plate is 5 mm = 14mm material.
Now, used: Material + backing plate measurements are:
Front: 10+mm and 12+mm, so 35% to 50% left. Inside outside equal.
Rear: 8+mm and 11+mm, so 21% to 42% left. Inside all 20-30% outside 30-40%.
I posted earlier that I thought I was close to metal to metal in the rear, but not so!
8/9 days is the limit for the rear pads and they could use flipping as well, but not due to tapering, but because the insides wear more than the outsides.
Given that unlike on the MKI the rotor price is so much higher then the pads I won't push further with the front pads either.
Compared to my MKI GT3 with brake ducts rear, it seems that there is a slight increase in rear brake pad wear. Increase in tire rear makes the brakes work harder? Fronts identical wear to MKIGT3 wear.
The rear rotors seem fine, just hairline cracks, the fronts look pretty beaten up, I hope they will last another 8 track days in cooler weather, but doubt it. See pics, top 3 are front rotors, bottom 2 are rear rotors.
I will run 6-8 days between now and Nov 7th and likely one additional day in Dec. Roebling, Barber(maybe), VIR, Sebring, 1 day Homestead.
Hoping to get there with these rotors, but I have a spare set with me as backup.
Maybe by then someone will have aftermarket cheap slotted rotors
#9
Rennlist Member
Stoptech has them available. Pays back over OEM on 3rd go round. Only pain is if rotors go at track, you have to swap the rings which take longer.
Front Rotors (2) - $ 1425
Rear Rotors (2) - $ 1025
Front Replacement Rings - $ 580 per pair
Rear Replacement Rings - $510 per pair
Front Rotors (2) - $ 1425
Rear Rotors (2) - $ 1025
Front Replacement Rings - $ 580 per pair
Rear Replacement Rings - $510 per pair
#10
Burning Brakes
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Trying to be the driver my car wants me to be
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Stoptech has them available. Pays back over OEM on 3rd go round. Only pain is if rotors go at track, you have to swap the rings which take longer.
Front Rotors (2) - $ 1425
Rear Rotors (2) - $ 1025
Front Replacement Rings - $ 580 per pair
Rear Replacement Rings - $510 per pair
Front Rotors (2) - $ 1425
Rear Rotors (2) - $ 1025
Front Replacement Rings - $ 580 per pair
Rear Replacement Rings - $510 per pair
Thanks in advance...
#12
Rennlist Member
I have not bought the stoptech yet ... going thru this season with stock, then see if anything else (cheaper) pops up over the winter. They come slotted or drilled.
#13
First thing I am curious about is if you tried to run the stock OEM Pagid pads? I have 9 track days on them and really like them (at the track, not on the street). They are far more aggressive that the 997.1 Textar sport pads. I noticed a lot of people swapping out pads without even giving them a chance and I discovered on my first track day they are far better than ever expected. I never get outbraked and have never feel even a single hint of fade with them. I am also not getting any of the wear issues you have, just very slight cracking around the holes on the front rotors. I used to run PF01s on my old car because I like a fast grab and release. They not only feel like a PF01 at the track, they do on the street too. They don't stop worth anything at under 30 mph and sound like an entire elementary class scratching their fingers on a chalkboard at low speed. I am going to stick with the OEM pads going forward because they are that good and continue to tolerate them on the street.
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Just finished day 10 and 11 at Roebling. Roebling is easy on brakes, so no more wear on the rotors today than 2 days ago. So far so good..
I tried them, but they are a bit to "grabby" for me and I think the R29's will last longer and be easier on the rotors. Not facts, just my own gestimation.
Ouch...They have to last at least 2x OEM...
Same here.
First thing I am curious about is if you tried to run the stock OEM Pagid pads? I have 9 track days on them and really like them (at the track, not on the street). They are far more aggressive that the 997.1 Textar sport pads. I noticed a lot of people swapping out pads without even giving them a chance and I discovered on my first track day they are far better than ever expected.
Stoptech has them available. Pays back over OEM on 3rd go round. Only pain is if rotors go at track, you have to swap the rings which take longer.
Front Rotors (2) - $ 1425
Rear Rotors (2) - $ 1025
Front Replacement Rings - $ 580 per pair
Rear Replacement Rings - $510 per pair
Front Rotors (2) - $ 1425
Rear Rotors (2) - $ 1025
Front Replacement Rings - $ 580 per pair
Rear Replacement Rings - $510 per pair
I have not bought the stoptech yet ... going thru this season with stock, then see if anything else (cheaper) pops up over the winter. They come slotted or drilled.