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failure of rear caliper bolt

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Old 01-14-2011, 07:21 AM
  #61  
TRAKCAR
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I've asked Orbit, but we keep forgetting to look it up.
I'll try to write it down on the next work order, I need the torque specs for the nuts anyway..
Old 01-16-2011, 02:35 PM
  #62  
mojom3
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Bump for part numbers.
Old 01-16-2011, 06:27 PM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by Martin_D
I have to admit I did the same for the exact same reason. You are lucky to have the "good customer" charge
Your avatar doesn't make sense.

Old 01-18-2011, 07:42 PM
  #64  
Todd B

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I've ordered timeserts, so I'll be ready. Still need to get my break in miles done.
Old 01-19-2011, 12:36 PM
  #65  
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Pardon my ignorance, but I've never heard of this issue on the 6-3's. Are they immune, or of a different design?

Thanks
Old 01-19-2011, 12:45 PM
  #66  
cfjan
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You don't need to take off the caliper to change brake pads on the 6-3s, so less chance of damaging the threads...
Old 01-19-2011, 12:57 PM
  #67  
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Ahh, OK, right. The only time I did it, I changed the rotors, so calipers came off. Now I get it. So, there is some benefit to being in lust with this old beast, and not having coin to upgrade.
Old 01-19-2011, 01:11 PM
  #68  
cfjan
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I feel as a track oriented car, Porsche should have designed or spec the calipers for ease of changing brake pads.
Old 01-19-2011, 01:44 PM
  #69  
Izzone
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That is why I changed my calipers out
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Old 01-19-2011, 01:44 PM
  #70  
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You might suppose so, but other manufacturers do the same. If you get a brake upgrade from Alcon you also have to remove the calipers (even the fronts) if you want to change pads.
Old 01-19-2011, 01:55 PM
  #71  
cfjan
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Really?! I'm surprised. I guess maybe the design have more rigidity? Otherwise, I don't see any advantage of requiring the calipers off to change pads. (Consider how often that has to be done on a race car..)
Old 01-19-2011, 04:11 PM
  #72  
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why not just change over to 996 turbo rear calipers! problem solved and will only cost your a couple hundred bucks.. use the spacer to bring out the caliper and run the 350mm rotor! vivid racing sell them for like 100 bucks. spacer and bolts or make your own spacer
Old 01-19-2011, 10:45 PM
  #73  
Terry L
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Bad news, kids. The problem also occurs with front calipers and infects 996s as well as 997s. You may not notice it until you change front rotors but it's happening. Diagnose it by putting a socket key on the caliper bolt and see if it moves easily. If it does, you're a member of the Timecert club.
Old 06-20-2012, 06:26 PM
  #74  
akirasan
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Joining the club of lost threads Lots of travel dictated having a local shop did some suspension work for me. Couple of days after I got back I was at Laguna Seca going into turn 6 when I heard a PING. Backed off and did some wiggle checks - everything felt okay so I assumed I'd hit something someone else's car had shed (number of off-and-ons at that spot). Next turn I heard another loud PING and decided it was time to head to the pits. As I worked my way around the pressure in the left front tire started to climb. ByBy the time I hit the lower exit the tire went flat so I thought I'd holed the tire, but when I backed off to make the turn into hot pit the car lurched to a stop. I limped the last 60 feet or so to the paddock, expecting a shredded tire - waiting friend pointed out my wheel wasn't turning. Once parked I could see the caliper pointing up into the wheel and the lower bolt completely free of the carrier. When everything had cooled enough for me to start disassembly I found the thread in the lower gone and the upper bolt hanging on and bent at a 30-degree angle. The caliper-to-wheel contact had compromised the wheel to the point that the flat was caused by the grooves worn into the middle of the wheel. Time for studs methinks...
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Last edited by akirasan; 06-21-2012 at 12:21 PM.
Old 06-20-2012, 06:41 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by akirasan
Joining the club of lost threads Lots of travel dictated having a local shop did some suspension work for me. Couple of days after I got back I was at Laguna Seca going into turn 6 when I heard a PING. Backed off and did some wiggle checks - everything felt okay so I assumed I'd hit something someone else's car had shed (number of off-and-ons at that spot). Next lap around hear another loud PING and decided it was time to head to the pits. As I worked my way around the pressure in the left front tire started to climb. By the time I hit the lower exit the tire went flat so I thought I'd holed the tire, but when I backed off to make the turn into hot pit the car lurched to a stop. I limped the last 60 feet or so to the paddock, expecting a shredded tire - waiting friend pointed out my wheel wasn't turning. Once parked I could see the caliper pointing up into the wheel and the lower bolt completely free of the carrier. When everything had cooled enough for me to start disassembly I found the thread in the lower gone and the upper bolt hanging on and bent at a 30-degree angle. The caliper-to-wheel contact had compromised the wheel to the point that the flat was caused by the grooves worn into the middle of the wheel. Time for studs methinks...
Sounds like the shop that did the suspension work screwed up the caliper R+R -- I'd start by having them accept this was their doing.

As ever: when there's any doubt, there is no doubt -- either stop right there and pull off the racing surface or ease back to cool-down pace and pit to get the car throughly examined.

Continuing at speed after hearing anything or feeling anything just risks your life and the lives of those around you, trusting you to make good decisions on track.


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