On to the inside! I chose to mount the control unit flush in the console. Unfortunately, the spot where I wanted to put it was the same spot where the factory installed the passenger airbag light. To me, this light is not mission critical, so I decided to relocate it to the inside of the console and put the control unit there.
To begin, open the console, remove the rubber mat inside, and remove the 3 torx screws on the bottom.
Remove the plastic panel in the bottom, and unplug the universal audio interface wiring. Underneath there is one more torx screw to remove.
Snap out the cover underneath the e-brake handle and remove the torx screw there.
Detach the shifter boot by pulling straight up on the forward most side (nearest the radio), and it will come off easily. Remove the two torx screws under the boot.
At the far front of the console on both sides, there is a larger torx screw buried in the carpeted panel shown. Remove them and the panel will come right off.
Underneath you will find two more torx screws per side holding on the sides of the center stack in place.
The trim around the shifter area (the one you can get painted body color etc) is snapped together with the black trim piece above it. Separate the two by carefully inserting a flat blade screw driver in between and turning it. It doesn’t take much to snap them apart, so you don’t have to worry much about hurting either piece. Once the two are separated, remove the top section to reveal 2 more screws forward of the shifter.
Once those are removed, slip the lower section out to reveal the yet two more screws at the very front of the console.
The sides of the center stack pull straight out (toward the back of the car) since the screws were removed in a previous step.
Remove the two screws holding the cubby in place and pull the cubby out. This will reveal the last damn screw…sheesh!
Finally the console will come out.
Ok, now the tricky part. First mark the position of the control panel from the underside using the supplied template. Once the hole is marked, use a Dremmel tool to carefully mill out the plastic marked by the template. DO NOT cut all the way through the plastic at once if you have the leather console (as I do). Instead remove a small layer at a time until you are down to the leather, which you will leave in place. You need the leather to wrap back inside the hole when inserting the control panel. If you have the standard console, cut the hole slightly smaller than needed and use a fine finishing file to complete the task. Take your time and don’t get in a hurry on this step. I can only imagine how much a console would cost to replace (especially a leather one).
The control unit should fit snug in the hole. Once it is in place, use silicone or hot glue to prevent the unit from coming loose.
Next we mount the USB interface in the glove box. Yay, more screws!
The side panel snaps off by pulling straight forward.
Remove the cup holder package (if so equipped) by loosening the torx screws shown. This is the threaded part of the screw in the picture (sorry didn’t get a pic before I unscrewed them). They do not need to be taken completely out (nor can they be). Once the screws are loose, you will have to push down on the unit a bit to free it from the cavity.
Couple more screws behind the cup holders to remove.
Last thing is to remove the hush panel from beneath the dash by unscrewing the large plastic retainers with a flat head screwdriver (sorry no pic).
With the glove box out, you can see a cavity on the left side of the factory CD holder from the back side. This is the target for the USB interface and it is exactly the right size for the plug to fit into. Mark the area to be cut so that the hole will be right in the center of this cavity and then the same height and position as the factory CD holder.
Rough cut the hole with a Dremmel tool and then file it smooth.
Finally, insert the USB interface and secure it with the supplied machine screws.
For the display, I sent the supplied unit to Stealth Mirror (www.stealthmirror.com
) and they expertly installed it into a factory Porsche mirror for just north of $400. This makes mounting the display a breeze since you just replace one mirror with the other. Once it is mounted, run the wire behind the headliner and down the passenger a-pillar tucking it behind the panel. I chose the passenger side since I mounted the main unit under the console, and the glove box was already out making it very simple. Plug all the connectors into their color coded sockets and you are ready for power.
I found switched power in the driverside kick panel behind the fuse box. Plenty of choices there. I used a volt meter to probe the fuses until I found one that went on and off with the key and then tapped the wire from the back. Sorry, I was getting pretty tired by this point (2 AM) and forgot to get a picture of this part.
After that, put it all back together and go test it out!