Hoosier R80 R100 on MK2 RS
#1
Still plays with cars.
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Hoosier R80 R100 on MK2 RS
My tire dealer has told me to use the Hoosier slicks on my '10 RS. Wheels are 18 inch dia. Apparently they are the spec tire for the Cup series.
Does anyone know what hot pressures I should shoot for? I've used the R6 but this will be a new experience.
Best,
Does anyone know what hot pressures I should shoot for? I've used the R6 but this will be a new experience.
Best,
#2
Three Wheelin'
Bob, what spec series?
The Patron series uses Yokohama slicks...maybe consider them..they are an exact fit and they are that good!
But the other concern is the ABS causing the Ice Mode?!
The Patron series uses Yokohama slicks...maybe consider them..they are an exact fit and they are that good!
But the other concern is the ABS causing the Ice Mode?!
#4
Rennlist Member
Any more on this?
I'm headed out to the Glen in a couple of weeks and will be using the R80 up front and R100 in rear. I've lots of experience with the Michelin and Yoko slicks, but this will be my first on the Hoosiers. Like to know the thinking on both cold and hot psi.
TIA
I'm headed out to the Glen in a couple of weeks and will be using the R80 up front and R100 in rear. I've lots of experience with the Michelin and Yoko slicks, but this will be my first on the Hoosiers. Like to know the thinking on both cold and hot psi.
TIA
#5
Race Director
I'm seeing more guys at the track in the race groups using Yoko slicks these days. Ask ViperBob on these forums about them he has 2 guys using them and they like them a lot better than the Hoosiers they use to use.
#7
Rennlist Member
Please guys -- this is not a thread about what tires are better... I would like people with experience to share what they know on the Hoosier radial slick in the R80 or R100 compound.
Thanks
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#8
Race Director
Ok I'll shut up.... ;-)
#9
Nordschleife Master
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Too funny Mike.....
OK I've run the R80/R100 combination. I know that Hoosier tells everyone to run them at 30 hot and that seems to be a good place to start. I would go out dead cold at 24 front 23 rear and bleed them down to 29-30 after 5-6 laps. If you were going out cold for a race I would drop to 22/21....
I found them to be very slippery when cold so take it easy for a few laps before you push them. I got over 20 HC's on that set remarkably....
OK I've run the R80/R100 combination. I know that Hoosier tells everyone to run them at 30 hot and that seems to be a good place to start. I would go out dead cold at 24 front 23 rear and bleed them down to 29-30 after 5-6 laps. If you were going out cold for a race I would drop to 22/21....
I found them to be very slippery when cold so take it easy for a few laps before you push them. I got over 20 HC's on that set remarkably....
#10
Rennlist Member
Too funny Mike.....
OK I've run the R80/R100 combination. I know that Hoosier tells everyone to run them at 30 hot and that seems to be a good place to start. I would go out dead cold at 24 front 23 rear and bleed them down to 29-30 after 5-6 laps. If you were going out cold for a race I would drop to 22/21....
I found them to be very slippery when cold so take it easy for a few laps before you push them. I got over 20 HC's on that set remarkably....
OK I've run the R80/R100 combination. I know that Hoosier tells everyone to run them at 30 hot and that seems to be a good place to start. I would go out dead cold at 24 front 23 rear and bleed them down to 29-30 after 5-6 laps. If you were going out cold for a race I would drop to 22/21....
I found them to be very slippery when cold so take it easy for a few laps before you push them. I got over 20 HC's on that set remarkably....
20 HCs is remarkable and consistent to what we've been told with about the tires. Actually, seems to be about the same as R6s based on my previous experience. (20-24 heat cycles)
I usually see about a 10 psi rise for a 20 minute session; I'll look at that 20 to 21 psi range cold start. I have not been to the race track with my GT3 yet so it's both a new car and tire for me.
Should be fun.
#11
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Start at 24 and bleed them down as needed.
29 front 30 rear or something in that range as you get used to them and figure out what works for you.
Good tire. Went away for me when I corded it. Stayed together until then.
20 HC is about right.
#12
Rennlist Member
30 hot is a good target and starting at 24 a good starting point. With 24 starting and bleeding down as needed the tire will have a little bit more support in it coming out of the pits. These tires don't like to be beat on right out of the pits with a low tire pressure in them. Give them a few easy laps to get some heat and pressure in them before really driving hard on them. This will help them to last longer and keep from cording.
#13
Rennlist Member
30 hot is a good target and starting at 24 a good starting point. With 24 starting and bleeding down as needed the tire will have a little bit more support in it coming out of the pits. These tires don't like to be beat on right out of the pits with a low tire pressure in them. Give them a few easy laps to get some heat and pressure in them before really driving hard on them. This will help them to last longer and keep from cording.
#14
I've run the R80 front and R100 rear combo' as well as R100s all around. We targeted 30psi hot at first but found an unusual wear pattern on the fronts. Increasing the hot target to 32psi worked better and resulted in more even wear across the surface of the tire. The heavier weight of the street GT3s over a Cup or race prep'd car called for the higher pressures. Alignment settings are also a factor. It seems we had the front camber at 3.25 degrees negative and rear was 2.25 negative as I recall. Tire widths were 250 front and 305 rear on a 2008 GT3.
#15
Rennlist Member
I've run the R80 front and R100 rear combo' as well as R100s all around. We targeted 30psi hot at first but found an unusual wear pattern on the fronts. Increasing the hot target to 32psi worked better and resulted in more even wear across the surface of the tire. The heavier weight of the street GT3s over a Cup or race prep'd car called for the higher pressures. Alignment settings are also a factor. It seems we had the front camber at 3.25 degrees negative and rear was 2.25 negative as I recall. Tire widths were 250 front and 305 rear on a 2008 GT3.
No matter what some my think -- I feel 3000 + pounds is pretty heavy.
Glad I posted to this thread... getting good feedback.
H_D