DIY Guide to PCCB Pad Replacement
11-10-2008, 09:58 PM
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DIY Guide to PCCB Pad Replacement
I replaced my pads, front and back, this weekend. While I didn't take pics (sorry), here is a detailed description of the work involved. I have never done brake work before and this was not hard.
Parts (the numbers below may be switched for front and back. I didn’t pay that much attention when I opened the boxes / bags). The pads come two to a box as to the bolts. You need to order 2 front wear indicators and two rear:
1. Front brake pads 99735294701
2. Rear brake pads 99735194802
3. Front brake wear indicator 99761267700
4. Rear brake wear indicator 99761275400
5. Front caliper bolts 99906705409
6. Rear caliper bolts 99906704001
Process:
1. Front:
a. Lift the car using a 3-ton floor jack by lifting at one of the rear lifting points. Put a jack stand under the front wheel lifting point. Lower the car. Do the same on the other side and, again, lower the car. Put the floor jack under the crankcase seam and lift the rear of the car (the dealer suggested putting a hockey puck on the lift to add some protection to the engine case). Insert two jack stands under the rear lifting points.
b. Remove front wheels using the pins in the car’s tool kit that hold the wheels away from the rotors.
c. Turn the wheels (on the left side turn the wheel right) so that the caliper is easily accessed.
d. Remove the 13mm bolt that holds the pin in place that holds the retaining clip / expanding spring in place. This is on the backside of the caliper.
e. Work the pin towards the direction of the wheel. It is pretty much impossible without pushing in the retaining clip / expanding spring. This was a little difficult, pushing the clip / spring in while trying to work out the pin. I used a punch and gently hit it with a hammer while pushing the spring – a third hand would have made this easier. The spring will fall out when the pin is removed.
f. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. It can overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back, so either drain some fluid or put towels around the reservoir. I was warned about this, but it wasn’t a problem in my case. It can overflow when you push the pads back.
g. Use a caliper expansion tool to push the existing pads back. This allows the new pads to clear the rotor. You can also use a large pipe wrench with duct tape on the ends, using a rag for extra protection, and squeeze the pad toward the caliper. You don’t want to scratch the calipers. Moderate pressure is all that is needed.
h. Remove the old pads. They pull right out.
i. Disconnect the wear indicator plug by following the wire that is connected to the pads to the spot where it connects to the car. You will have to lift a safety clip that holds this plug – this is an aluminum / tin looking clip that holds this plug and one other in place. There are two guide-clips that hold the wire in place that need to be opened. Turning the wheels the opposite direction gives you better access to the plug receptacle.
j. Remove the paper from the back of the pads. Insert the replacement pads - #1 (or 2) above. The front pads are the larger pads.
k. Put the expanding spring back in place.
l. Push the wear indicators into place. The fatter portion goes toward the rotor. They snap into place pretty easily. The front wear indicator wires are about 1 to 2” longer than the back ones. Run the wear indicator wire through the catch on the expansion spring and into the side of the caliper where you removed the old one.
m. Put the pin back in that holds the expanding spring in place. The pin goes in more easily if you push the expanding spring in.
i. Make sure that the pin’s head is aligned with the place where it seats so it doesn’t rotate. You will see that the pin’s head isn’t round. The flat portions of the oval like head run basically parallel to the ground.
n. Install the bolt removed in (c) above. Tighten to 23 ft-lbs.
o. Remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the wheel assembly one at a time using a 10mm Allen Wrench and replace with new bolts. Tighten to 63 ft-lb.
p. Run the wear indicator back through the two guides and plug back in.
i. Close the clip that holds the plug into place.
q. If you are not doing the rear pads as well, install the brake reservoir cap.
r. Install tire with bolts tightened to 96 ft-lb.
s. Start the car and press on the brake peddle moderately for 5 seconds.
t. You are finished with the front end.
2. Rear
a. Remove rear wheels using the pins in the car’s tool kit that hold the wheels away from the rotors.
b. Unplug the wear indicator wires by:
i. Lifting the safety clip where it plugs in to the car. The plug is located behind the wheel and it’s pretty tight in there. You have to stick your head between the top of the rotor and the wheel well to see it.
ii. Unplugging them from the pads. You can just pull on the wires for this. You are going to throw them away, so not a problem if they break.
c. There is a fitting behind the caliper where the hydraulic line is connected. It can be pulled straight out of the U-shaped fitting. Remove the caliper bolts using a 10mm Allen Wrench. There are two. Both are on the side of the caliper that faces the front of the car. One is high and one is low.
d. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. It can overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back, so either drain some fluid or put towels around the reservoir. I was warned about this, but it wasn’t a problem in my case. It can overflow when you push the pads back.
e. Pull the caliper off. It should slide forward toward the front of the car. It has to be rocked a bit to get it off, but it shouldn’t take much effort. Make sure you have something underneath the now free caliper. I used a bucket. Whatever you have that sits the right height works. Don’t disconnect the hydraulic line. I wasn’t sure if the hydraulic line was going to be soft or stiff, but it is the latter, so swiveling the caliper to where I could get access was easy.
f. Use a caliper expansion tool to push the existing pads back. This allows the new pads to clear the rotor. You can also use a large pipe wrench with duct tape on the ends, using a rag for extra protection, and squeeze the pad toward the caliper. You don’t want to scratch the calipers. Moderate pressure is all that is needed.
g. Pull the old brake pads out of the brake-pad guide pins. You pivot the pads out from the top by pulling them towards the other pad. Once you clear the guide pins, the pads pull out easily. Install the new pads in the reverse fashion that you removed them.
i. My old pads had a plate on the back that clipped on. It is very thin. The new pads didn’t come with the same plate, so I put it back on. Not sure if this is not longer required or if it was a part that the dealer forgot provide.
h. Slide the caliper assembly back on the rotor and reattach using new bolts. Install with 10mm Allen Wrench to 63 ft-lb.
i. Insert the wear indicators with the fatter / thicker portion towards the rotor. This is a little tougher than on the fronts due to access. Just make sure you can feel them click / pop into place.
i. Run the wire through the caliper, the clip and bracket from which you removed them and then plug it back into the car.
ii. Place the clip back over the plug.
j. Push the hydraulic line back into the U-shaped connector that holds it in place
k. If you are not doing the front pads as well, install the brake reservoir cap.
l. Install tire with bolts tightened to 96 ft-lb.
m. Start the car and press on the brake peddle moderately for 5 seconds.
n. You are finished with the rear end.
I hope this is helpful. Again, sorry for the lack of pics. Z
Parts (the numbers below may be switched for front and back. I didn’t pay that much attention when I opened the boxes / bags). The pads come two to a box as to the bolts. You need to order 2 front wear indicators and two rear:
1. Front brake pads 99735294701
2. Rear brake pads 99735194802
3. Front brake wear indicator 99761267700
4. Rear brake wear indicator 99761275400
5. Front caliper bolts 99906705409
6. Rear caliper bolts 99906704001
Process:
1. Front:
a. Lift the car using a 3-ton floor jack by lifting at one of the rear lifting points. Put a jack stand under the front wheel lifting point. Lower the car. Do the same on the other side and, again, lower the car. Put the floor jack under the crankcase seam and lift the rear of the car (the dealer suggested putting a hockey puck on the lift to add some protection to the engine case). Insert two jack stands under the rear lifting points.
b. Remove front wheels using the pins in the car’s tool kit that hold the wheels away from the rotors.
c. Turn the wheels (on the left side turn the wheel right) so that the caliper is easily accessed.
d. Remove the 13mm bolt that holds the pin in place that holds the retaining clip / expanding spring in place. This is on the backside of the caliper.
e. Work the pin towards the direction of the wheel. It is pretty much impossible without pushing in the retaining clip / expanding spring. This was a little difficult, pushing the clip / spring in while trying to work out the pin. I used a punch and gently hit it with a hammer while pushing the spring – a third hand would have made this easier. The spring will fall out when the pin is removed.
f. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. It can overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back, so either drain some fluid or put towels around the reservoir. I was warned about this, but it wasn’t a problem in my case. It can overflow when you push the pads back.
g. Use a caliper expansion tool to push the existing pads back. This allows the new pads to clear the rotor. You can also use a large pipe wrench with duct tape on the ends, using a rag for extra protection, and squeeze the pad toward the caliper. You don’t want to scratch the calipers. Moderate pressure is all that is needed.
h. Remove the old pads. They pull right out.
i. Disconnect the wear indicator plug by following the wire that is connected to the pads to the spot where it connects to the car. You will have to lift a safety clip that holds this plug – this is an aluminum / tin looking clip that holds this plug and one other in place. There are two guide-clips that hold the wire in place that need to be opened. Turning the wheels the opposite direction gives you better access to the plug receptacle.
j. Remove the paper from the back of the pads. Insert the replacement pads - #1 (or 2) above. The front pads are the larger pads.
k. Put the expanding spring back in place.
l. Push the wear indicators into place. The fatter portion goes toward the rotor. They snap into place pretty easily. The front wear indicator wires are about 1 to 2” longer than the back ones. Run the wear indicator wire through the catch on the expansion spring and into the side of the caliper where you removed the old one.
m. Put the pin back in that holds the expanding spring in place. The pin goes in more easily if you push the expanding spring in.
i. Make sure that the pin’s head is aligned with the place where it seats so it doesn’t rotate. You will see that the pin’s head isn’t round. The flat portions of the oval like head run basically parallel to the ground.
n. Install the bolt removed in (c) above. Tighten to 23 ft-lbs.
o. Remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the wheel assembly one at a time using a 10mm Allen Wrench and replace with new bolts. Tighten to 63 ft-lb.
p. Run the wear indicator back through the two guides and plug back in.
i. Close the clip that holds the plug into place.
q. If you are not doing the rear pads as well, install the brake reservoir cap.
r. Install tire with bolts tightened to 96 ft-lb.
s. Start the car and press on the brake peddle moderately for 5 seconds.
t. You are finished with the front end.
2. Rear
a. Remove rear wheels using the pins in the car’s tool kit that hold the wheels away from the rotors.
b. Unplug the wear indicator wires by:
i. Lifting the safety clip where it plugs in to the car. The plug is located behind the wheel and it’s pretty tight in there. You have to stick your head between the top of the rotor and the wheel well to see it.
ii. Unplugging them from the pads. You can just pull on the wires for this. You are going to throw them away, so not a problem if they break.
c. There is a fitting behind the caliper where the hydraulic line is connected. It can be pulled straight out of the U-shaped fitting. Remove the caliper bolts using a 10mm Allen Wrench. There are two. Both are on the side of the caliper that faces the front of the car. One is high and one is low.
d. Open the brake fluid reservoir cap. It can overflow when pushing the caliper pistons back, so either drain some fluid or put towels around the reservoir. I was warned about this, but it wasn’t a problem in my case. It can overflow when you push the pads back.
e. Pull the caliper off. It should slide forward toward the front of the car. It has to be rocked a bit to get it off, but it shouldn’t take much effort. Make sure you have something underneath the now free caliper. I used a bucket. Whatever you have that sits the right height works. Don’t disconnect the hydraulic line. I wasn’t sure if the hydraulic line was going to be soft or stiff, but it is the latter, so swiveling the caliper to where I could get access was easy.
f. Use a caliper expansion tool to push the existing pads back. This allows the new pads to clear the rotor. You can also use a large pipe wrench with duct tape on the ends, using a rag for extra protection, and squeeze the pad toward the caliper. You don’t want to scratch the calipers. Moderate pressure is all that is needed.
g. Pull the old brake pads out of the brake-pad guide pins. You pivot the pads out from the top by pulling them towards the other pad. Once you clear the guide pins, the pads pull out easily. Install the new pads in the reverse fashion that you removed them.
i. My old pads had a plate on the back that clipped on. It is very thin. The new pads didn’t come with the same plate, so I put it back on. Not sure if this is not longer required or if it was a part that the dealer forgot provide.
h. Slide the caliper assembly back on the rotor and reattach using new bolts. Install with 10mm Allen Wrench to 63 ft-lb.
i. Insert the wear indicators with the fatter / thicker portion towards the rotor. This is a little tougher than on the fronts due to access. Just make sure you can feel them click / pop into place.
i. Run the wire through the caliper, the clip and bracket from which you removed them and then plug it back into the car.
ii. Place the clip back over the plug.
j. Push the hydraulic line back into the U-shaped connector that holds it in place
k. If you are not doing the front pads as well, install the brake reservoir cap.
l. Install tire with bolts tightened to 96 ft-lb.
m. Start the car and press on the brake peddle moderately for 5 seconds.
n. You are finished with the rear end.
I hope this is helpful. Again, sorry for the lack of pics. Z
11-10-2008, 10:37 PM
#2
Burning Brakes
fantastic. thanks
11-11-2008, 12:09 PM
#4
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Sorry if I missed it - haven't read it thoroughly yet, but I believe there is a special grease as part of the 'kit' (it ought to be special - I was charged about £40 for it) to be used somewhere. I presume that's for the back of the base plates?
11-11-2008, 04:52 PM
#5
I changed the pads on my GT3 in ~1 hour...front & rear
Eric is correct, you do need a 3rd hand to press on the spring while u push the pin out...having wife nearby is handy.
11-11-2008, 07:07 PM
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John B,
I didn't get any grease type product nor do I know where you would use them. I'm not sure what that would be.
SWS, yes it is easy. I just wanted to write in detail how it is done because 1) I can be **** (I was an engineer in college, though have never practiced), and 2) I was a bit nervous about doing it and would have appreciated having a very detailed description to guide me through it. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't find anything on the net about the steps involved. Z
I didn't get any grease type product nor do I know where you would use them. I'm not sure what that would be.
SWS, yes it is easy. I just wanted to write in detail how it is done because 1) I can be **** (I was an engineer in college, though have never practiced), and 2) I was a bit nervous about doing it and would have appreciated having a very detailed description to guide me through it. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't find anything on the net about the steps involved. Z
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10-26-2015, 06:11 PM
#10
I would not tighten that bolt to 23 ft lb. Good and snug and marked. I'll verify with Porsche parts guy tomorrow. There is a wonderful tool to unload spring- makes job so easy. Photo tomorrow as well.
10-27-2015, 02:59 PM
#11
Rennlist Member
you might want to consider replacing the caliper bolts with the PCMA/Tarret studs instead.
99735194802, 99735294701, brake, change, dyi, gt3, indicator, indicators, p99735194802, pad, pads, pccb, rear, replacement, wear
