DIY wheels stud installlation (with pics)
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DIY wheels stud installlation (with pics)
Hi folks,
Here is a DIY on installing wheel studs on a 997.1 (and same for 996). If useful mods please add to sticky DIY thread.
Note that this is how I do it and that by reading or using this DIY you are assuming all liability for working on your car, no warranty express or implied.
Tools you will need:
Torque wrench that will provide 96 ft/lbs
Torque wrench that will provide 30 ft/lbs
19mm deep socket
19mm open ended wrench (x2, or regular ratchet)
The anti-theft adapter for your stock 997 anti-theft wheel bolt
A jack
A jackstand
The OEM rotor protecting temporary studs in your frunk (PCCB cars only)
The parts:
I ended up buying bullet nose 45mm wheel studs and Porsche spec wheel nuts from Rennline
Loctite 272 (red) (optional)
The process:
Jack up the car and set it on a jackstand. Do not work on cars supported by just a jack as jacks eventually fail and the car could fall on you and kill or dismember you...
Remove the stock wheel bolts. Be sure to identify the factory security wheel bolt and use the adapter in your frunk to remove it first. In this picture below it's the one on top
For PCCB cars only- just remove two wheel bolts and insert and tighten the rotor protecting studs from your frunk as shown.
Next for each wheel stud, thread on nut on backwards and one the right way (so that the surfaces that normally face the wheel are touching). Then use a 19mm open ended wrench and 19mm driver to tighten them together
When you are done they will look like this
Next for each stud with two nuts on it, apply red loctite (optional) and then torque to the wheel hub with 30 ft/lbs of torque. Then using your open ended wrench TIGHTEN the inboard nut (so that you don't undo the stud from the hub) and once the nuts are separated remove them from the stud by hand.
This is a good time to inspect your brake pads/rotors for wear, and to polish up those fancy yellow/red calipers.
When complete your hub will look like this:
Re-install the wheel and torque to 96 ft/lbs. Some say a higher torque rating, so do what you believe and don't flame me for quoting what Rennline says. Here's the finished product:
Total time for this job was about an hour for me, including cleanup and fast forwarding Apple music when songs I can't stand come on.
One last thing- I installed wheel studs to protect my PCCB rotors from chipping when removing/installing wheels and for speedier wheel changes. Look on ebay at used and chipped PCCB rotors to see what I mean.
I did not install studs to try and save weight, trying to save weight on the components that hold the wheels on the car seems illogical to me.
As it turns out, each stud + nut is 17g heavier than the OEM wheel bolt. So this mod added 340g of unsprung weight to me car.
Here is a DIY on installing wheel studs on a 997.1 (and same for 996). If useful mods please add to sticky DIY thread.
Note that this is how I do it and that by reading or using this DIY you are assuming all liability for working on your car, no warranty express or implied.
Tools you will need:
Torque wrench that will provide 96 ft/lbs
Torque wrench that will provide 30 ft/lbs
19mm deep socket
19mm open ended wrench (x2, or regular ratchet)
The anti-theft adapter for your stock 997 anti-theft wheel bolt
A jack
A jackstand
The OEM rotor protecting temporary studs in your frunk (PCCB cars only)
The parts:
I ended up buying bullet nose 45mm wheel studs and Porsche spec wheel nuts from Rennline
Loctite 272 (red) (optional)
The process:
Jack up the car and set it on a jackstand. Do not work on cars supported by just a jack as jacks eventually fail and the car could fall on you and kill or dismember you...
Remove the stock wheel bolts. Be sure to identify the factory security wheel bolt and use the adapter in your frunk to remove it first. In this picture below it's the one on top
For PCCB cars only- just remove two wheel bolts and insert and tighten the rotor protecting studs from your frunk as shown.
Next for each wheel stud, thread on nut on backwards and one the right way (so that the surfaces that normally face the wheel are touching). Then use a 19mm open ended wrench and 19mm driver to tighten them together
When you are done they will look like this
Next for each stud with two nuts on it, apply red loctite (optional) and then torque to the wheel hub with 30 ft/lbs of torque. Then using your open ended wrench TIGHTEN the inboard nut (so that you don't undo the stud from the hub) and once the nuts are separated remove them from the stud by hand.
This is a good time to inspect your brake pads/rotors for wear, and to polish up those fancy yellow/red calipers.
When complete your hub will look like this:
Re-install the wheel and torque to 96 ft/lbs. Some say a higher torque rating, so do what you believe and don't flame me for quoting what Rennline says. Here's the finished product:
Total time for this job was about an hour for me, including cleanup and fast forwarding Apple music when songs I can't stand come on.
One last thing- I installed wheel studs to protect my PCCB rotors from chipping when removing/installing wheels and for speedier wheel changes. Look on ebay at used and chipped PCCB rotors to see what I mean.
I did not install studs to try and save weight, trying to save weight on the components that hold the wheels on the car seems illogical to me.
As it turns out, each stud + nut is 17g heavier than the OEM wheel bolt. So this mod added 340g of unsprung weight to me car.
The following users liked this post:
ElCid86 (10-25-2023)
#2
Burning Brakes
Nice write up!
#4
I see a lot of "tuner" and Asian cars converted to studs. May I ask a genuine question of why? besides the differences in the look, what benefit does the stud offer?
Last edited by speedracerf4i; 03-28-2017 at 05:19 PM. Reason: found the answer
#5
-td
The following users liked this post:
ElCid86 (10-25-2023)
#6
Racer
Recommended for cars that track/DE, especially if you are running spacers. Tech inspection cannot accurately verify proper thread engagement or length of bolts if you are running aftermarket wheels and/or spacers.
#7
Rennlist Member
Do you remove your wheels? It is a huge PITA putting a large wheel and tire on with such a stupid set up. The Japanese got it right on this
The following users liked this post:
ElCid86 (10-25-2023)
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#8
Really nice write up and thanks on the education on studs vs lug nuts. Am I the only person who puts the wheel I take off under the car as jack failure insurance? I dont know where I picked this up, but when I take off a wheel to do brake work, I put the wheel under the car laying it on its side.
#9
Really nice write up and thanks on the education on studs vs lug nuts. Am I the only person who puts the wheel I take off under the car as jack failure insurance? I dont know where I picked this up, but when I take off a wheel to do brake work, I put the wheel under the car laying it on its side.
-td