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Serpentine belt blew; overheated

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Old 02-21-2017, 07:43 PM
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Mick The Kraken
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Default Serpentine belt blew; overheated

Good day, all.

While heading down the freeway today, I suddenly got a "Battery regeneration failure" error (something like that) on the dash, lost power steering and shortly thereafter noticed the water temp had climbed to 250 and the "pull the car over, stupid" alarm was going off - all of which didn't take long at all. Anyhow, I pulled it over, killed the motor and popped the lid. I had a trail of coolant for about 100 feet behind me (surely it was longer than that); almost needless to say, it's all gone (or seems to be).

I've looked at other posts that say, "Just take it to a shop and have them fill and bleed it." What say you? Is this is something any of you have run into and managed to complete yourself (given the right tool(s))?

Thanks for your time,
Mick
Old 02-21-2017, 10:19 PM
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KNS
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So the belt shredded? Are you sure the water pump didn't seize up and take out the belt with it?

A belt failure alone shouldn't cause you to dump your coolant unless it got seriously hot and and something really did let go.
Old 02-21-2017, 10:21 PM
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996AE
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Year, mileage?
Old 02-21-2017, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by KNS
So the belt shredded? Are you sure the water pump didn't seize up and take out the belt with it?

A belt failure alone shouldn't cause you to dump your coolant unless it got seriously hot and and something really did let go.
Yep. Belt shredded to the point that a portion of it was wrapped around the front part of the water pump pulley - I had to use a knife and pliers to get it off. The water pump still rotates, so it seems like it's okay. I had been up and down from the speed limit up to 110+, so was generating some heat. And when that belt goes, you're done in a pretty short amount of time. I've looked over everything in the rear and I can't find any issues - of course only a pressure test (or filling the thing up and firing it up for a short drive) will tell.
Old 02-21-2017, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by 996AE
Year, mileage?
2006 C2S with 75k miles. Thermostat and pump replaced roughly 20k ago. Belt was last replaced a year and a half ago or so.
Old 02-21-2017, 11:03 PM
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If the pump and all the pulleys rotate smoothly, freely and are nicely aligned then I would go ahead fill it with coolant and run it (and watch it closely for the first several miles). Could simply be a bad belt - you hope.
Old 02-21-2017, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by KNS
If the pump and all the pulleys rotate smoothly, freely and are nicely aligned then I would go ahead fill it with coolant and run it (and watch it closely for the first several miles). Could simply be a bad belt - you hope.
Hence my question: the mechanics seem fine - I'm simply asking if anyone has just filled the thing up, minus all the bleeding business. Thanks, KNS. I'll go for it and monitor things closely.
Old 02-21-2017, 11:30 PM
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Type_LT
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Originally Posted by Mick The Kraken
Hence my question: the mechanics seem fine - I'm simply asking if anyone has just filled the thing up, minus all the bleeding business. Thanks, KNS. I'll go for it and monitor things closely.
If the car is stuck somewhere on the side of the road, go ahead and fill it up and at the same time open the bleed valve if it's cool. Start the car and continue to add coolant to the MIN mark giving some short throttle blips to circulate. After that, drive around gently for a few miles then stop shortly before your reach the 175F and close the bleed valve. You'll likely still be low on coolant but at least make sure you can see some in the tank before you go further. If not, then wait for it to cool and add more.

You'll need to drive and bleed a couple more times to make it right but that will take a couple cool down cycles (days).

The coolant was flushed on mine and although the shop bled and filled a couple times, I had to add a quart of coolant after another couple hundred miles (there are no leaks).

The belt failure was certainly early. Take a moment to inspect all of the pulleys/tensioers to see if anything funky is going on or if something is biting into the belt along it's path (can't think of what though...)
Old 02-21-2017, 11:38 PM
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Look at the pulleys. Check if they are worn and have ridges; which may have contribute to the belt failing.
Old 02-22-2017, 12:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Type_LT
If the car is stuck somewhere on the side of the road, go ahead and fill it up and at the same time open the bleed valve if it's cool. Start the car and continue to add coolant to the MIN mark giving some short throttle blips to circulate. After that, drive around gently for a few miles then stop shortly before your reach the 175F and close the bleed valve. You'll likely still be low on coolant but at least make sure you can see some in the tank before you go further. If not, then wait for it to cool and add more.

You'll need to drive and bleed a couple more times to make it right but that will take a couple cool down cycles (days).

The coolant was flushed on mine and although the shop bled and filled a couple times, I had to add a quart of coolant after another couple hundred miles (there are no leaks).

The belt failure was certainly early. Take a moment to inspect all of the pulleys/tensioers to see if anything funky is going on or if something is biting into the belt along it's path (can't think of what though...)
This is precisely the kind of info/answer I was looking for. Thanks so much.
Old 02-22-2017, 12:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Mick The Kraken
This is precisely the kind of info/answer I was looking for. Thanks so much.
Good luck! And watch the oil and water gauges carefully as you proceed.

Also check for any shaft play on the water pump before installing the new belt. It's possible it would rotate but have significant shaft play as well. While you're filling the coolant watch the belt a bit to see if anything is wobbly, being careful to stay out of its direct path should it break again for some reason.

FWIW, I've seen a couple serpentine belts that have voids on the ribbed side where the rubber didn't squish into the mold. This has never caused a failure for me but can't be good overall. In fact, the one I just pulled of my 997 had a couple 1-2mm dia. voids.
Old 02-22-2017, 05:27 AM
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Belt fairly new, should not have ripped. Sure it got changed?

Cf
Old 02-22-2017, 09:54 AM
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Think about changing your oil... when temps hit around there, the oil or its additives can be damaged (so I've read on one of the infinite oil threads).

Peace
Bruce in Philly
Old 02-22-2017, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cool flash
Belt fairly new, should not have ripped. Sure it got changed?

Cf
Yes; I changed it (as I've done in the past, with no issues).
Old 02-22-2017, 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Bruce In Philly
Think about changing your oil... when temps hit around there, the oil or its additives can be damaged (so I've read on one of the infinite oil threads).

Peace
Bruce in Philly
I'm doing that very thing. And for that matter, I'm changing the intake and cabin filters, and putting on a new-to-me front bumper (finally no more drill holes, Bumper Plugs and previous-owner parking-error flaws). On a side note, I recently swapped out the aging/original motor mounts with some of those WEVO SS mounts. That created some slight additional noise and vibration, but there's definitely a feeling of added control in the rear (and no more sagging exhaust!). I mention that to you, because I thought I remember you stating you had done the same thing.

Peace,
Mick


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