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I was at Sebring this weekend and melted my new Cool Carbon Pads ugh...kinda ruined my day. I know they weren't dedicated track pads but wanted to give them a try, they were worst of any I've had on car (OEM, StopTech). After 2 laps they over heated and glazed the rotors. See pic! My question...Guys that swap pads for track days do you also swap your rotors? Can you run a street pad then have track pad bite on same rotor?
I know that it doesn't exist but anyone have a pad that works ok on street and good on track. I don't want to sound like a train stopping when I pull up to a stop light.
Thanks all! 2010 C4S
I do a lot of Sebring track days. On IR currently so wasn't there for Chin but am shooting for DMTD and Chin in March. I used to swap between track and street pads when I was running PFC08s on track. Did it then due to concern about abrasive nature of the 08s shortening rotor (Girodiscs on mine) life while driving on street. I switched to Race Technologies RE10 track about 15 months ago based on recommendation from the world famous Trackcar. I leave them on full time now - no more pad swaps. My Giros last 15-20% longer than they did with the PFC / street pad combo. The RE10 is a truly great pad based on my experience but they are expensive. Longer pad and rotor life as well as less labor due to less frequent pad swaps is how I justify the cost to myself.
I was at Sebring this weekend and melted my new Cool Carbon Pads ugh...kinda ruined my day. I know they weren't dedicated track pads but wanted to give them a try, they were worst of any I've had on car (OEM, StopTech). After 2 laps they over heated and glazed the rotors. See pic! My question...Guys that swap pads for track days do you also swap your rotors? Can you run a street pad then have track pad bite on same rotor?
I know that it doesn't exist but anyone have a pad that works ok on street and good on track. I don't want to sound like a train stopping when I pull up to a stop light.
Thanks all! 2010 C4S
Interesting about your CC pads - I'm also in a 2010 C4S. I've been using them for the track for a couple years now and while I have no experience at Sebring, I do run at all the CA tracks, a couple of which, Laguna Seca and Sonoma, can be hard on pads. My experience is a little different from yours in that I definitely found them to have a stronger bite than OEM and wear rate about the same (I do agree they are not in the same league as PFC or Pagid). I've rarely gone through a front set of CC in a weekend and never had any failures. I have experienced the glazing too, but I just need to take it easy at the start of a new session and do some moderate braking to ensure I get enough heat into the pads - once heated back up they work fine until exhausted (the pads ... and me). The advantage of the CC is they are cheap, so replacing after each track weekend is not too bad and on the 997, a very easy DIY job.
But like most track guys I'm always on the look-out for better pads (and yes price is an object), so I'll be interested to read more replies to this topic. Thanks for posting.
Interesting about your CC pads - I'm also in a 2010 C4S. I've been using them for the track for a couple years now and while I have no experience at Sebring, I do run at all the CA tracks, a couple of which, Laguna Seca and Sonoma, can be hard on pads. My experience is a little different from yours in that I definitely found them to have a stronger bite than OEM and wear rate about the same (I do agree they are not in the same league as PFC or Pagid). I've rarely gone through a front set of CC in a weekend and never had any failures. I have experienced the glazing too, but I just need to take it easy at the start of a new session and do some moderate braking to ensure I get enough heat into the pads - once heated back up they work fine until exhausted (the pads ... and me). The advantage of the CC is they are cheap, so replacing after each track weekend is not too bad and on the 997, a very easy DIY job.
But like most track guys I'm always on the look-out for better pads (and yes price is an object), so I'll be interested to read more replies to this topic. Thanks for posting.
Yeah first session was bad...felt like I had warped rotors after 3 laps. Then the brake sensor threw a light on dash...I assume I broke/melted that. I let brakes cool and took it easy but I am in blue (intermediate) group and I was just in everyone's way so I ended it very early. I went easier first few laps to build temp in the next sessions but the brake chatter always came back which was not confidence building at the end of those straights so I ended early.
Used them in my B6 S4 with Alcon calipers and rotors. Stopped that fat pig real quick and never had brake fading using RBF600 fluid. They do squeak when cold and had to be warmed up to work properly. Long as I did that, no issues on street driving.
Are you coming back to Sebring this weekend for PCA? I have a 997.1 C4S. I swap pads for the track and run stock pads for the street. Stock rotors for both. I've used PFC 08 and Pagid Orange for the track. Both are great. But I can't stand the "garbage truck" squeal for street driving.
Are you coming back to Sebring this weekend for PCA? I have a 997.1 C4S. I swap pads for the track and run stock pads for the street. Stock rotors for both. I've used PFC 08 and Pagid Orange for the track. Both are great. But I can't stand the "garbage truck" squeal for street driving.
No not making it back this weekend. I never ran with PCA...how is it compared to Chin?
I am thinking about trying the Carbotech XP8 for track...they have the lowest operating temp for track pad so maybe they will be ok on street after a few stops to heat up to 200 F. I usually do tracking in Feb-April and Nov-Dec when Florida weather is cooler so maybe keep them on during those months and swap for quiet street during summer. Not my DD so not a huge deal. http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/car-items...s+-+Iron+Discs
I used the XP8s in my porky Audi. You do need to heat them up for the street. So as I left DC garage to go to the twisty roads I made sure that I used extra distance and did no emergency stops on my way out. First few turns in the wilds I applied brakes to heat them up. After that really good braking!
I used the XP8s in my porky Audi. You do need to heat them up for the street. So as I left DC garage to go to the twisty roads I made sure that I used extra distance and did no emergency stops on my way out. First few turns in the wilds I applied brakes to heat them up. After that really good braking!
How squeaky were they after they heated up a bit?
FYI...my last car was a B6 S4! Loved the engine but man it was heavy. I tried to auto cross once with it and it was embarrassing.
I modded mine with PSS9 shocks, Alcon brakes, Hotchkis sway bars, APR exhaust, HFC, and tune with JHM shifter. I really should have kept it, but did not want to do the whole engine pull and do the timing chain guides, clutch, and all the other bits. Did the squeak when cold? Sure did, but I lived with it. They have bore scoring issues too.
I modded mine with PSS9 shocks, Alcon brakes, Hotchkis sway bars, APR exhaust, HFC, and tune with JHM shifter. I really should have kept it, but did not want to do the whole engine pull and do the timing chain guides, clutch, and all the other bits. Did the squeak when cold? Sure did, but I lived with it. They have bore scoring issues too.
Nice upgrades...I sold mine when I started to get timing chain slack at startup to.
02-20-2017, 12:28 PM
Track day pad question
