Racetwin2

OK, I must say I'm a novice at tracking the 997. Have only been at the track twice this year, once with instructor. Plan to go once more.

I come from sport bikes where everything seems to be over-engineered and overheating brakes was not really an issue.

However when I last tracked the car with instructor we never drove more than 1-2 laps and then a cool down lap for the brakes.

On a fairly short track here the Porsche will do max 8 laps before brakes are gone according to my instructor. His Subaru maybe 6 laps. He is a national rally driver for Subaru driving a WRX STI

How do you drive when you are on track days? Two-three laps and then in the pits to cool down with engine running? I guess a cooling down lap is not to recommend when other cars are around?

Also -what other Pre-inspection / post inspection or other preparations do you do during a track day?

Do you bring basic tools, duct tape etc?

Please school me

Alexandrius

So much to say...

i recommend the following for reliable braking for a 20 minute session at the track (which is generally how long I'm on track at a time).

1. Track pads, something with a semi metallic compound. Pfc 08 is popular. These will eat rotors and can cause a bit of shakiness if they are not properly bedded. Ideally, you will run the pfc08s with their own rotors and swap back to stock for daily driving. Pfc 08 will squeal when cold and will not have maximum grip cold.

2. Stock rotors are fine for both applications, but slotted aftermarket would be ideal. Really doesn't matter much for hpde.

3. Gt2 brake ducts. Will require minimal trimming of metal brake shields to install, but grant massive airflow to your brakes to cool them. way more effective than gt3 ducts.

4. Dot 4 brake fluid flush/bleed before each track day. Many people have their preferences, I prefer castrol srf.

5. Change oil after each track day no matter what, and before each track day if you have driven it hard/decent miles before the track day.

6. Inspect tires for dry rot, cords, weak sidewalls, etc.

keep an an eye on engine oil temp and have fun.

your instructor must be babying your car as it is stock, because they are capable of much more just by swapping some consumables. (I take back the babying comment...8 laps might be a lot. Depends on the track and amount of time a lap takes).

as for cool down laps, you definitely want a cool down lap. Just let the other cars pass you if you are returning before the session is over. Drive at low rpm and practice your lines. The key to cool down lap is to let air flow over rotors and into radiators to cool the brakes and engine/transmission, while keeping revs low to allow temps to drop. as long as you aren't going dangerously slow it shouldn't be an issue with whatever club you are running.

docdrs

Had no issues with my brakes of hard lapping for 20 minute sessions with and without instructor. Make sure lugs are torqued to specs 97ft lbs on my .2. I was amazed when a guy brought out his torque wrench and started torque wheels as to how loose some of the guys were. One guy said aftermarket wheels are notorious for this. My instructor wasn't happy unless the wheels were screaming on every corner....... What a blast

Batman33

You mean to tell me the great Porsche 911 can only handle a couple of hot laps before needing a breather? I hope that's not really the case. I've yet to make it to an HPDE in my recently acquired C2S, but certainly hope and expected more that that! I hope it was the case of a (overly) cautious instructor.

177mph

It HAS to be. My stocker could run 20 mins sessions all day long on stock everything. Me thinks this guy was cautious.

Alexandrius

I mean it's possible the guy was on some track that takes 3 minutes to make a lap which would mean 24 minute sessions.

also, a professional driver will be MUCH harder on the car than the owner usually if he is driving flat out.

So yeah the guy is either being cautious or the laps are a bit longer than we think.

Hella-Buggin'

You're instructer may be basing the duration of usable braking on his style or on an old 911. Use high temp fluid and you should be fine.

For example, I'm in an upper run group and run PFC 08's with high temp fluid and run hard the entire session with only the last lap as a cool down which I just up shift a gear and do at about 2/3's speed.

Get a a third center radiator at some point and have fun.

himself

We have a lot of tracks with straights long enough to keep the braking system cool. If your local track is short with heavy acceleration followed by heavy braking, without a lot of long(ish) straights, it is possible to create a critical thermal situation needing a lap without the same aggressiveness. We have one track here in Texas that is known to be hard on brakes. For those situations, you need to be sure you have proper cooling, good pads (thickness will help keep heat from bleeding) and good technique.

It also helps to try and match your tire compound and pads. Stickier tires with street pads will require longer braking zones, which necessarily means more heat.

In terms of cooling the brakes - sitting in the pits is the opposite of what you need to do. With no airflow, lots of heat bleeds into the calipers, and then into the pistons. You really need to continue to drive the track relative quickly, say 7 or 8 tenths to keep good airflow to the rotors. You can definitely manage traffic driving at that speed and not be a rolling chicane.

If you do suffer from brake fade, you can look into upgrading a few things. Better pads, rotors with veins, scoops and ducting to the brakes. Scoops are the low hanging fruit in terms of airflow, but ducting is much better. Also, pay attention to which corner(s) are overheating. If it's the front, you can also help by running a more aggressive pad in the back. (I assume your 997 doesn't have brake bias, so you can really only adjust by changing compounds front to back).

-td

alexb76

I can do 20-25min session with no problems, that's all OEM stuff, just better fluid and pads. Even when fully stock, I could do 20mins no problem, but wasn't as fast or hard on brakes as now.

ColoradoMark

New torque specs are, if I remember correctly, 114 ft/lbs. This seems like a lot as I've been used to being in the low 90's for lots of different cars through the years.
Oil after one day? I think that depends on what temps you are seeing. That seems like overkill to me.
I love the PFC08's!
I can overheat in a few laps- third radiator is sitting in the garage waiting to be installed!
I'll take a cool down lap if I can, if not I'll drive slowly through the pit. Don't put on your e-brake!
I always bring some tools, tape (gaffers and masking), tire gauge, torque wrench, jack, air tank...
Glad you are having fun!

Racetwin2

Thanks for the replies. You are correct. I'm currently in Poland and tracks here are short. Poznan being the largest one.......

So - lots of braking and not enough speed to cool the brakes. I guess around 20 minutes seem to be the recommendation.

My instructor has driven so many sports cars on track so I think he has seen the limits on the tracks here. There is basically 3-4 decent tracks where Poznan is the largest.

I was thinking to go without an instructor first but he really helped a lot with details like different hand positioning on the steering wheel going in different corner speeds. Also braking techniques and where to apply gas and even double touch the gas pedal to settle the rear before accelerating out of some corners where the car easily gets unsettled.

Yes - Basic tools I had and even some duct tape. Extinguisher already in the car since before.

By idling I mean not to shut off the engine due to the oil and water temp but to allow it to cool before shutting off. I agree brakes is another story and like the idea of a cooling down lap still going relatively fast not to be in the way but also not pushing too hard.

Alexandrius

Theres no point to idle. Just turn the car off when you are done running and if its hot the ECU will auto detect and turn on internal fans.

Tom Feldmann

@himself What's the difference between ducts and scoops? Are there specific products you can point out? I'll be running a C2S at Road America in October but I'm not really planning on changing anything for the first time out...more or less to see how the car does stock.

I was thinking of getting the GT3 front brake ducts and the Turbo rears...but do you think they're a waste of money? Are the GT2 ducts really that much better?

How many track days can one expect out of PFC08s? I know that really depends on the track but a ballpark for the track you run would be nice. I come from running a Dodge Challenger SRT8 and getting basically 1 day (5x20 minute sessions) with Hawk 5.0s @ Road America (ouch!).

MaximumA

I'll address this one: I check tyre pressures before and after and tyre and brake temperatures after, and I also carry a torque wrench for the wheel bolts. And make sure you empty out the car completely so there's nothing at all that can fly around when you're on the track.

Tom Feldmann

Can't second the torque wrench enough! Know your torque requirements and check them before each session. It might be overkill but better safe than sorry. I had one session drop the lug torques by 5lbs. They were fine the rest of the day but you never know unless you check them.

Buy an extra set of brake pads! You don't necessarily have to get yourself another set of track pads but make sure you have something to get you home if you burn through your set. Pads are cheaper than rotors :P

Nitril gloves, paper towel, windex. Your wheels are going to be crazy dirty. If you have to change pads, the gloves will save your hands from getting filthy and scratched up...plus it will keep the handle of your torque wrench clean.