WARM START - I hate my Porsche 911 Carrera 4S
03-03-2015, 10:36 PM
#32
Rennlist Member
I had my Porsche 911 Carrera 4S for 4 years now and spent a fortune trying to get the warm start fixed. 28,000 miles on the clock
Problem..
Car fires up on cold start - Great Smile
Warm start say I drive for 10 mins park up and then restart its struggling like mad to startup, so bloody embarrassing pulling up in a flash car that sounds like a coughing dog when starting up.. wrrr wrror worrr worrr worr then starts and sometimes I have to turn car off then try again in 5 mins
These are the actions I have had done in order to get this fixed and failed.
1. Part number 997-607-019-03 ("alternator/starter harness", "alternator/starter cable loom")
All the below done by a indy
2. Battery Earth Cables and 996 607 030 00 ground strap
3. New Battery
4. Coil packs
5. New Starter Motor 2 months ago (helped for 1 week and problems back)
I just want to enjoy this 911 for the first time before my finance is fully paid...
Matt
Problem..
Car fires up on cold start - Great Smile
Warm start say I drive for 10 mins park up and then restart its struggling like mad to startup, so bloody embarrassing pulling up in a flash car that sounds like a coughing dog when starting up.. wrrr wrror worrr worrr worr then starts and sometimes I have to turn car off then try again in 5 mins
These are the actions I have had done in order to get this fixed and failed.
1. Part number 997-607-019-03 ("alternator/starter harness", "alternator/starter cable loom")
All the below done by a indy
2. Battery Earth Cables and 996 607 030 00 ground strap
3. New Battery
4. Coil packs
5. New Starter Motor 2 months ago (helped for 1 week and problems back)
I just want to enjoy this 911 for the first time before my finance is fully paid...
Matt
I had a '73 that had the same symptoms, great cold, and then hot it would die, or just poke along at only very low revs. Give it gas and it shuts down. I could always start it but could not go faster than 10 mph roughly. Replaced everything, including fuel pump, filters etc. Eventually it was bad voltage regulation. It would heat up and short out, interrupting the spark.
That was then, this is now, for today I'd start with your DME control unit. PIWIS can test it for codes, probably Durametric too. But I'd go with PIWIS as you could try to reprogram it; but I'd be inclined to replace it - if it's bad it will be bad after reprogramming too. A replacement unit will have to be reprogramed by PIWIS (maybe Durametric can reprogram it but I don't know).
Alternatively you may wish to investigate the condition of your coil packs. Unless they are really cracked or otherwise fouled-up, they should not be the problem, but might as well rule them out too.
Unfortunately you've got yourself a "process of elimination" job in front of you. Good luck !
03-03-2015, 11:48 PM
#33
mattblack, can you clarify the issue? When it dies and you attempt to restart, is it turning over really slowly, or cranking fine but not firing?
If it's cranking slowly and you have a manual, put it in neutral. Perhaps your clutch is slightly out of adjustment and dragging at the right temp. If it's PDK or still cranks slowly in neutral, then I still think there is an electrical connection to the starter, not necessarily the ground (earth) that is corroded or loose.
If it's cranking fine but not firing, then my bet is coils or fuel pressure leak down causing a vapor lock. Careful checking fuel pressures on these cars, as it's a bit higher than most pickup trucks.
If it's cranking slowly and you have a manual, put it in neutral. Perhaps your clutch is slightly out of adjustment and dragging at the right temp. If it's PDK or still cranks slowly in neutral, then I still think there is an electrical connection to the starter, not necessarily the ground (earth) that is corroded or loose.
If it's cranking fine but not firing, then my bet is coils or fuel pressure leak down causing a vapor lock. Careful checking fuel pressures on these cars, as it's a bit higher than most pickup trucks.
03-04-2015, 12:04 AM
#34
Rennlist Member
mattblack, can you clarify the issue? When it dies and you attempt to restart, is it turning over really slowly, or cranking fine but not firing?
If it's cranking slowly and you have a manual, put it in neutral. Perhaps your clutch is slightly out of adjustment and dragging at the right temp. If it's PDK or still cranks slowly in neutral, then I still think there is an electrical connection to the starter, not necessarily the ground (earth) that is corroded or loose.
If it's cranking fine but not firing, then my bet is coils or fuel pressure leak down causing a vapor lock. Careful checking fuel pressures on these cars, as it's a bit higher than most pickup trucks.
If it's cranking slowly and you have a manual, put it in neutral. Perhaps your clutch is slightly out of adjustment and dragging at the right temp. If it's PDK or still cranks slowly in neutral, then I still think there is an electrical connection to the starter, not necessarily the ground (earth) that is corroded or loose.
If it's cranking fine but not firing, then my bet is coils or fuel pressure leak down causing a vapor lock. Careful checking fuel pressures on these cars, as it's a bit higher than most pickup trucks.
03-04-2015, 04:22 AM
#35
Intermediate
Thread Starter
mattblack, can you clarify the issue? When it dies and you attempt to restart, is it turning over really slowly, or cranking fine but not firing?
If it's cranking slowly and you have a manual, put it in neutral. Perhaps your clutch is slightly out of adjustment and dragging at the right temp. If it's PDK or still cranks slowly in neutral, then I still think there is an electrical connection to the starter, not necessarily the ground (earth) that is corroded or loose.
If it's cranking fine but not firing, then my bet is coils or fuel pressure leak down causing a vapor lock. Careful checking fuel pressures on these cars, as it's a bit higher than most pickup trucks.
If it's cranking slowly and you have a manual, put it in neutral. Perhaps your clutch is slightly out of adjustment and dragging at the right temp. If it's PDK or still cranks slowly in neutral, then I still think there is an electrical connection to the starter, not necessarily the ground (earth) that is corroded or loose.
If it's cranking fine but not firing, then my bet is coils or fuel pressure leak down causing a vapor lock. Careful checking fuel pressures on these cars, as it's a bit higher than most pickup trucks.
I will try the neutral thing today...
03-04-2015, 04:23 AM
#36
Intermediate
Thread Starter
When I read your symptoms I immediately thought of the starter-ground-cable system, but you had that replaced. I'd still test voltage as noted others as there could be a ground issue. Also as suggested, the fuel pump could be an issue.
I had a '73 that had the same symptoms, great cold, and then hot it would die, or just poke along at only very low revs. Give it gas and it shuts down. I could always start it but could not go faster than 10 mph roughly. Replaced everything, including fuel pump, filters etc. Eventually it was bad voltage regulation. It would heat up and short out, interrupting the spark.
That was then, this is now, for today I'd start with your DME control unit. PIWIS can test it for codes, probably Durametric too. But I'd go with PIWIS as you could try to reprogram it; but I'd be inclined to replace it - if it's bad it will be bad after reprogramming too. A replacement unit will have to be reprogramed by PIWIS (maybe Durametric can reprogram it but I don't know).
Alternatively you may wish to investigate the condition of your coil packs. Unless they are really cracked or otherwise fouled-up, they should not be the problem, but might as well rule them out too.
Unfortunately you've got yourself a "process of elimination" job in front of you. Good luck !
I had a '73 that had the same symptoms, great cold, and then hot it would die, or just poke along at only very low revs. Give it gas and it shuts down. I could always start it but could not go faster than 10 mph roughly. Replaced everything, including fuel pump, filters etc. Eventually it was bad voltage regulation. It would heat up and short out, interrupting the spark.
That was then, this is now, for today I'd start with your DME control unit. PIWIS can test it for codes, probably Durametric too. But I'd go with PIWIS as you could try to reprogram it; but I'd be inclined to replace it - if it's bad it will be bad after reprogramming too. A replacement unit will have to be reprogramed by PIWIS (maybe Durametric can reprogram it but I don't know).
Alternatively you may wish to investigate the condition of your coil packs. Unless they are really cracked or otherwise fouled-up, they should not be the problem, but might as well rule them out too.
Unfortunately you've got yourself a "process of elimination" job in front of you. Good luck !
I will pass this onto the indy today
03-04-2015, 04:24 AM
#37
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Im dropping the car off at the indy today, he has also read this post :-)
Thanks for all your help guys.. I will update you all soon..
Thanks
Matt
Thanks for all your help guys.. I will update you all soon..
Thanks
Matt
03-04-2015, 07:26 AM
#38
Maybe in the context of this thread this question is already answered...but
IIRC the PWIWS updates are really pricey, your indy may not be equipped with this(?) Did you mention if you indy has this software available? I'm no tech but as it has been mentioned here, the OBD stuff may not be enough info. (For what it's worth, I had my indy chase a CEL (literally!!) for nearly 4 years. I feel your pain.)
IIRC the PWIWS updates are really pricey, your indy may not be equipped with this(?) Did you mention if you indy has this software available? I'm no tech but as it has been mentioned here, the OBD stuff may not be enough info. (For what it's worth, I had my indy chase a CEL (literally!!) for nearly 4 years. I feel your pain.)
03-04-2015, 11:28 AM
#39
Rennlist Member
Based upon the detail you provided here I'll retract my suggestion of the fuel pressure leakdown. When that occurs, the starter turns the engine over at a normal speed but it just won't fire. In your case, it sounds like the starter is barely able to get the engine to turn.
03-04-2015, 05:48 PM
#40
There was a another thread on here and it turned out to be the starter. In the other thread, changing ground wires didn't help either.
I have the same symptoms but also have a dodgy battery. I plan to replace the battery this weekend but am expecting to replace the starter shortly thereafter.
I have the same symptoms but also have a dodgy battery. I plan to replace the battery this weekend but am expecting to replace the starter shortly thereafter.
03-05-2015, 02:11 AM
#41
Rennlist Member
Its funny, mine has the same problem...i disconnected the neg and clean off the corrosion...car cranked like a champ for a day , then went back it cranking like the battery was dying.
03-05-2015, 02:52 PM
#42
Could a bad alternator cause this issue? I'm guessing this could be tested with a volt meter to rule it out.
03-05-2015, 10:22 PM
#43
Burning Brakes
Coolant temp sensor?
Doesn't really fit with your symptoms, but since we're throwing out ideas here...
Had this issue with both of my Audis. If the coolant temperature sensor is faulty, the computer can't calculate the correct air/fuel mixture for a hot engine and it becomes very hard to start.
Worth trying if nothing else works.
Had this issue with both of my Audis. If the coolant temperature sensor is faulty, the computer can't calculate the correct air/fuel mixture for a hot engine and it becomes very hard to start.
Worth trying if nothing else works.
03-06-2015, 01:17 AM
#45
Pro
Unless this is your Everyday Driver just put a Battery Tender on it & you won't have to Worry about that! Finding the Problem will be a WHOLE Nuther' Matter! GL!