replace dooor handle trim
07-16-2014, 05:37 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
replace dooor handle trim
Suncoast Porsche
is selling leather door handle trim, however they recommend professional installation, is this something that I could do myself? thanks
is selling leather door handle trim, however they recommend professional installation, is this something that I could do myself? thanks
07-16-2014, 05:52 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
yes. It's the funkiest of the interior trim DIYs, though. First you have to remove the door panel. The trim piece you remove is attached from behind with maybe 6-8 plastic welds. You need a soldering iron to melt the welds, and then you have to melt in the new piece. If you decide to tackle the job, PM me, and look for diys here and on the other site.
I had a piece on my current car replaced under warranty by the dealer and I was pleasantly surprised at the good job they did (though I haven't seen the work from the inside of the door panel). Hopefully I never have to look.
I had a piece on my current car replaced under warranty by the dealer and I was pleasantly surprised at the good job they did (though I haven't seen the work from the inside of the door panel). Hopefully I never have to look.
07-17-2014, 01:06 PM
#4
RL Community Team
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I prefer to attach the new piece using screws that go in though the door panel from the backside and into the tubes on the new piece that you're installing. When you're ready to install the new piece you can test fit it, mark the plastic tubes and cut them off just below where they'd be flush with the panel - this allows you to draw that piece into the door nice and tight and fine tune the way it fits so the door handle doesn't rub it.
I've done the door spears job about 4 times and both ways - the melting method is messy, smelly, and is hard to make look as good when finished as it's not possible to duplicate with a soldering iron the cleanliness of the plastic welds done at the factory. Also, as you're melting the plastic rivets of the current pieces if you do them just enough to get the piece to release, the current pieces can be reused using the screw attachment method. If you go the screw route, put a small piece of thin foam tape on each screw head and that will eliminate the possibility of the screw head rattling against the door. Also, if you're going to DIY, buy a few spare door panel clips as one or 2 are always stubborn and break during removal of the door panel.
If you're not handy, let someone else do this job for you.
I've done the door spears job about 4 times and both ways - the melting method is messy, smelly, and is hard to make look as good when finished as it's not possible to duplicate with a soldering iron the cleanliness of the plastic welds done at the factory. Also, as you're melting the plastic rivets of the current pieces if you do them just enough to get the piece to release, the current pieces can be reused using the screw attachment method. If you go the screw route, put a small piece of thin foam tape on each screw head and that will eliminate the possibility of the screw head rattling against the door. Also, if you're going to DIY, buy a few spare door panel clips as one or 2 are always stubborn and break during removal of the door panel.
If you're not handy, let someone else do this job for you.
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ljmartyre (12-10-2022)
07-17-2014, 02:06 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
Petza-I've only done it twice (I've done everything twice and there's good reason for that) but I discovered a way to remove and replace by melting that's very clean, and very effective. The first time I did it I did the screw method because the parts I bought were after market and arrived with the screws in place. In the end, a very tedious but gratifying diy!
07-17-2014, 02:10 PM
#6
RL Community Team
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You going to share this new melting method or leave us in suspense 
Petza-I've only done it twice (I've done everything twice and there's good reason for that) but I discovered a way to remove and replace by melting that's very clean, and very effective. The first time I did it I did the screw method because the parts I bought were after market and arrived with the screws in place. In the end, a very tedious but gratifying diy!
05-16-2019, 02:59 PM
#7
Instructor
I prefer to attach the new piece using screws that go in though the door panel from the backside and into the tubes on the new piece that you're installing. When you're ready to install the new piece you can test fit it, mark the plastic tubes and cut them off just below where they'd be flush with the panel - this allows you to draw that piece into the door nice and tight and fine tune the way it fits so the door handle doesn't rub it.
I've done the door spears job about 4 times and both ways - the melting method is messy, smelly, and is hard to make look as good when finished as it's not possible to duplicate with a soldering iron the cleanliness of the plastic welds done at the factory. Also, as you're melting the plastic rivets of the current pieces if you do them just enough to get the piece to release, the current pieces can be reused using the screw attachment method. If you go the screw route, put a small piece of thin foam tape on each screw head and that will eliminate the possibility of the screw head rattling against the door. Also, if you're going to DIY, buy a few spare door panel clips as one or 2 are always stubborn and break during removal of the door panel.
If you're not handy, let someone else do this job for you.
I've done the door spears job about 4 times and both ways - the melting method is messy, smelly, and is hard to make look as good when finished as it's not possible to duplicate with a soldering iron the cleanliness of the plastic welds done at the factory. Also, as you're melting the plastic rivets of the current pieces if you do them just enough to get the piece to release, the current pieces can be reused using the screw attachment method. If you go the screw route, put a small piece of thin foam tape on each screw head and that will eliminate the possibility of the screw head rattling against the door. Also, if you're going to DIY, buy a few spare door panel clips as one or 2 are always stubborn and break during removal of the door panel.
If you're not handy, let someone else do this job for you.
Is there a DIY for this job? When drilling the melted pieces out, it looks to me that there is no space for the screws.
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05-16-2019, 03:34 PM
#8
RL Community Team
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The melted pieces that form the plastic rivets are actually hollow tubes in a new piece. It's the melting process with the tool Porsche uses that turns them into a smooth inverted mushroom look.
If reusing an old piece it has to be melted just to the point of releasing. Put separation pressure on one as you're melting it so you can feel when it releases, then hold it separated until the plastic hardens again, then go on to the next one until you've freed it from the door.
The screws fasten into the center of those "tubes". The tubes have to be short enough where they don't bottom out against the screw or you lose the ability to draw the piece into the door panel tightly. Once I have the door spear freed from the door, I take a dremel and trim them off square so the tubes are nice and neat to receive the screws.
05-16-2019, 04:56 PM
#9
Instructor
Sorry, I did that project before I started putting together DIYs.
The melted pieces that form the plastic rivets are actually hollow tubes in a new piece. It's the melting process with the tool Porsche uses that turns them into a smooth inverted mushroom look.
If reusing an old piece it has to be melted just to the point of releasing. Put separation pressure on one as you're melting it so you can feel when it releases, then hold it separated until the plastic hardens again, then go on to the next one until you've freed it from the door.
The screws fasten into the center of those "tubes". The tubes have to be short enough where they don't bottom out against the screw or you lose the ability to draw the piece into the door panel tightly. Once I have the door spear freed from the door, I take a dremel and trim them off square so the tubes are nice and neat to receive the screws.
The melted pieces that form the plastic rivets are actually hollow tubes in a new piece. It's the melting process with the tool Porsche uses that turns them into a smooth inverted mushroom look.
If reusing an old piece it has to be melted just to the point of releasing. Put separation pressure on one as you're melting it so you can feel when it releases, then hold it separated until the plastic hardens again, then go on to the next one until you've freed it from the door.
The screws fasten into the center of those "tubes". The tubes have to be short enough where they don't bottom out against the screw or you lose the ability to draw the piece into the door panel tightly. Once I have the door spear freed from the door, I take a dremel and trim them off square so the tubes are nice and neat to receive the screws.
05-16-2019, 04:58 PM
#10
RL Community Team
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05-16-2019, 05:07 PM
#12
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I don't remember the specific size as it was 6 years ago, but they were about a 1/2" long and the right diameter to securely thread into the tubes without cracking them. Then put something thin and rubbery on top of the screw heads to keep them from vibrating against the metal door.
05-17-2019, 10:47 AM
#13
Instructor
I don't remember the specific size as it was 6 years ago, but they were about a 1/2" long and the right diameter to securely thread into the tubes without cracking them. Then put something thin and rubbery on top of the screw heads to keep them from vibrating against the metal door.
Every time they came lose, they re sealed themselves. It was probably my skill set with that technique.
I messed up 4 or 5 mushrooms over 1.5h till I got fed up and got the drill.
1/4 drill bit is the size of the hole and that worked flawless. had the rest mushrooms out in less than 5 min. the mushroom head comes clean off.
My only issue was the soldered mushrooms since there was no middle point. I broke one tab off while trying to get the crusted area off.
Now I'm debating having the broken tab cover painted or buying a new one.
I will make some picture of the driver side when I get to it for future reference.
05-17-2019, 11:20 AM
#14
RL Community Team
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The soldering iron technique was a terrible mess. I had a hard time getting the mushrooms lose.
Every time they came lose, they re sealed themselves. It was probably my skill set with that technique.
I messed up 4 or 5 mushrooms over 1.5h till I got fed up and got the drill.
1/4 drill bit is the size of the hole and that worked flawless. had the rest mushrooms out in less than 5 min. the mushroom head comes clean off.
My only issue was the soldered mushrooms since there was no middle point. I broke one tab off while trying to get the crusted area off.
Now I'm debating having the broken tab cover painted or buying a new one.
I will make some picture of the driver side when I get to it for future reference.
Every time they came lose, they re sealed themselves. It was probably my skill set with that technique.
I messed up 4 or 5 mushrooms over 1.5h till I got fed up and got the drill.
1/4 drill bit is the size of the hole and that worked flawless. had the rest mushrooms out in less than 5 min. the mushroom head comes clean off.
My only issue was the soldered mushrooms since there was no middle point. I broke one tab off while trying to get the crusted area off.
Now I'm debating having the broken tab cover painted or buying a new one.
I will make some picture of the driver side when I get to it for future reference.
Depending on how deep the crack in the tube goes, you may still be able to use it just with a longer screw so you get good bite into the unbroken portion of it or if it's one of the ones right next to another, it may draw in tight enough. You have to make sure it draws in well or the silver inner handle can bind up on it in the closed position and scratch the finish or prevent the pin on the back from making the microswitch, which will prevent the window drop and raise function from working right.
05-17-2019, 11:30 AM
#15
Instructor
Sorry you had some difficulty with it. You have to keep the two parts separated with pressure until the plastic cools back down to prevent it from resetting. I think I mentioned that in one of my previous messages.
Depending on how deep the crack in the tube goes, you may still be able to use it just with a longer screw so you get good bite into the unbroken portion of it or if it's one of the ones right next to another, it may draw in tight enough. You have to make sure it draws in well or the silver inner handle can bind up on it in the closed position and scratch the finish or prevent the pin on the back from making the microswitch, which will prevent the window drop and raise function from working right.
Depending on how deep the crack in the tube goes, you may still be able to use it just with a longer screw so you get good bite into the unbroken portion of it or if it's one of the ones right next to another, it may draw in tight enough. You have to make sure it draws in well or the silver inner handle can bind up on it in the closed position and scratch the finish or prevent the pin on the back from making the microswitch, which will prevent the window drop and raise function from working right.
I followed the instruction with pressure to separate, the gooey plastic moved with the tension.
My thought was then to lose more mushrooms to have more movement but this didn't help.
The tab broke off right on the bottom of the cover. it is the first one on the narrow side.
I only could plastic weld, probably bad idea with my skills, or leave it away.