WD40 & leather seats
10-21-2013, 10:27 PM
#61
I can't believe there's a thread on using WD40 on your car seats. But if your good with it, I guess my questions are then would you use WD40..... - on your leather sofa - on your leather shoes - on your leather jacket - on your leather ball glove - on all your leather objects etc. etc. etc. If yes, then have at it.
Yes: but on older shoes. Not my newest pairs.
N/A. No leather jacket.
10-22-2013, 02:23 AM
#62
Instructor
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Scottsdale, AZ
Posts: 149
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
guys, the first thing you need to understand is what type of leather you have.
http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...s-leather.html
This has all the impact in the world on what products will do what. Spending a lot of time conditioning protected leather is generally a waste. In fact, keeping it clean with a damp microfiber is probably all it needs to live a long life.
Furthermore, leather should not be shiny.
As to the porsche products, they are simply rebranded stuff from one of the major manufacturers. Figure out which one (shouldn't be hard through google) and you can avoid the asinine porsche tax.
As for wd-40...why? There are so many good cleaners/conditioners out there, there is simply no point to use it.
I also would not use saddle soap...no need for it. lexol cleaner does the job just fine.
http://www.autopiaforums.com/forums/...s-leather.html
This has all the impact in the world on what products will do what. Spending a lot of time conditioning protected leather is generally a waste. In fact, keeping it clean with a damp microfiber is probably all it needs to live a long life.
Furthermore, leather should not be shiny.
As to the porsche products, they are simply rebranded stuff from one of the major manufacturers. Figure out which one (shouldn't be hard through google) and you can avoid the asinine porsche tax.
As for wd-40...why? There are so many good cleaners/conditioners out there, there is simply no point to use it.
I also would not use saddle soap...no need for it. lexol cleaner does the job just fine.
10-22-2013, 11:10 AM
#63
Drifting
From my Googling last night, it appears that the natural leather option is vat-dyed aniline leather and that the standard leather is coated. Since no one has been able to answer that question, that's what I'm going with for now. 
Interesting side note. There is a local upholstery shop that I have been dealing with for twenty five years. I swung by yesterday to pick up some sun shades I'd had them make and the lady who owns the shop came out to look at my 997. The put her hand on the passenger headrest and commented that the leather was particularly nice and of a high quality.
I thought that was high praise coming from someone who deals with hides all day.
Interesting side note. There is a local upholstery shop that I have been dealing with for twenty five years. I swung by yesterday to pick up some sun shades I'd had them make and the lady who owns the shop came out to look at my 997. The put her hand on the passenger headrest and commented that the leather was particularly nice and of a high quality.
I thought that was high praise coming from someone who deals with hides all day.
10-22-2013, 01:31 PM
#66
Rennlist Member
10-23-2013, 12:03 PM
#68
This is turning into an epic thread. I thought that there would be one response and then it's dead. I had one older leather worker/designer remind me that leather is skin- treat it almost like you would your own skin. The best leather treatments almost seem like heavy skin lotions (saddle soap, mink oil, eucerin) and skin treatments (lexol, neutrogena facewashes).
My car has semi-aniline dyed leather in the front seats and door arm rests. The rear seat bottoms are protectected/pigmented/corrected-grain leather (my back seat uppers are in storage so i don't know what they are but I suspect the same). Corrected grain means that it has that "cracked" texture- that's not natural, it's put on with rollers at a factory. Have you ever seen a cow with that texture? If it's got corrected grain it's almost always protected(coated). If it's smooth, it's almost always aniline or semi aniline.
I've designed some leather products in the past (mostly bags, moto stuff, and some saddles). The holy grail is aniline dyed leather... but it's usually 2-10X more expensive, shows defects that the cow had, and tougher to care for.
My car has semi-aniline dyed leather in the front seats and door arm rests. The rear seat bottoms are protectected/pigmented/corrected-grain leather (my back seat uppers are in storage so i don't know what they are but I suspect the same). Corrected grain means that it has that "cracked" texture- that's not natural, it's put on with rollers at a factory. Have you ever seen a cow with that texture? If it's got corrected grain it's almost always protected(coated). If it's smooth, it's almost always aniline or semi aniline.
I've designed some leather products in the past (mostly bags, moto stuff, and some saddles). The holy grail is aniline dyed leather... but it's usually 2-10X more expensive, shows defects that the cow had, and tougher to care for.
10-23-2013, 12:20 PM
#69
the op said he treated the wiper blades with wd40. i have seen [pun intended] oil as a no no on a windshield. maybe he just likes the feel of his wiperblades.anyhoos....dis be one weird thread
10-23-2013, 12:56 PM
#70
Race Director
Is "brave" synonymous with "stupid"? So, OP can afford the car, but not $12 for a dedicated leather cleaner/softener/conditioner? Jeeez.
Oh, BTW, I just applied a nice thick coat of Vaseline over my car's entire exterior. I hear that it protects the paint from tree sap and bugs.
Oh, BTW, I just applied a nice thick coat of Vaseline over my car's entire exterior. I hear that it protects the paint from tree sap and bugs.
10-23-2013, 01:28 PM
#71
Oh, BTW, I just applied a nice thick coat of Vaseline over my car's entire exterior. I hear that it protects the paint from tree sap and bugs.
10-23-2013, 02:33 PM
#72
Nordschleife Master
One of WD40's benefits is breaking rust away,I can only imagine what it does on leather... 
When it comes to wipers,you should use silicone spray if you want to cheap out buying new ones. Silicone works best on rubber...door seals,bushings etc.
Honestly,I do not believe anyone,OP included,that is frequenting Rennlist would ever use WD40 on leather. I strongly believe he started this thread to get some good reactions...and I can say it worked...I really had a few good laughs.
When it comes to wipers,you should use silicone spray if you want to cheap out buying new ones. Silicone works best on rubber...door seals,bushings etc.Honestly,I do not believe anyone,OP included,that is frequenting Rennlist would ever use WD40 on leather. I strongly believe he started this thread to get some good reactions...and I can say it worked...I really had a few good laughs.
Last edited by neanicu; 10-23-2013 at 02:53 PM.
10-23-2013, 03:03 PM
#73
Drifting
[QUOTE=997_rich;10851403]Have you ever seen a cow with that texture? If it's got corrected grain it's almost always protected(coated). If it's smooth, it's almost always aniline or semi aniline. [QUOTE]
Not sure I've ever seen a bald cow before.
Not sure I've ever seen a bald cow before.
