Maintenance: did my Oil Change over a lunch break
#31
Drifting
Thread Starter
Too much oil... how to remove
My '08 C2S now has 62.7K miles and 5.5 yrs on the clock. I just executed another oil and oil filter change, however, I over shot the amount of oil required. So to remove a small amount I removed the oil filter housing. This allows for controlled removal of excess oil. Here are some findings:
1. This method removes ~0.3 liter each time. 0.275 liter in the measured/marked water bottle plus the residual oil from the oil catch pan = ~0.3 liter.
2. The oil e-guage will register the oil removed after the engine has been re-started and the oil allowed to settle after 20 minutes. Note: I tried to re-install and remove the filter housing to see if it would fill up with oil. But even after 30 minutes there was no oil in the housing until I restarted the engine.
3. Each segment/bar on the oil e-gauge represents 0.4 liter
4. There are 4 bars on the oil e-guage to reach full... the last bar at the top indicates that you're over the full mark. Not necessarily an issue if it's over by a small amount but the issue with the last bar being full is that you cannot tell if it's a lot or a little. Being over the full mark significantly is potentially harmful to the engine as the oil will foam and not provide proper lubrication. I was only over by ~0.3 liters but I prefer to be on the safe side.
Conclusion: it's much easier and cleaner to fill up incrementally(0.5 liter at a time) after filling with ~8 liters to gauge how much oil is required vs. having to adjust afterwards via the oil filter housing removal method. For a proper oil e-gauge reading the engine must reach 140*F oil operating temp and allowed to settle long enough per the e-gauge... typically 20+ minutes.
1. This method removes ~0.3 liter each time. 0.275 liter in the measured/marked water bottle plus the residual oil from the oil catch pan = ~0.3 liter.
2. The oil e-guage will register the oil removed after the engine has been re-started and the oil allowed to settle after 20 minutes. Note: I tried to re-install and remove the filter housing to see if it would fill up with oil. But even after 30 minutes there was no oil in the housing until I restarted the engine.
3. Each segment/bar on the oil e-gauge represents 0.4 liter
4. There are 4 bars on the oil e-guage to reach full... the last bar at the top indicates that you're over the full mark. Not necessarily an issue if it's over by a small amount but the issue with the last bar being full is that you cannot tell if it's a lot or a little. Being over the full mark significantly is potentially harmful to the engine as the oil will foam and not provide proper lubrication. I was only over by ~0.3 liters but I prefer to be on the safe side.
Conclusion: it's much easier and cleaner to fill up incrementally(0.5 liter at a time) after filling with ~8 liters to gauge how much oil is required vs. having to adjust afterwards via the oil filter housing removal method. For a proper oil e-gauge reading the engine must reach 140*F oil operating temp and allowed to settle long enough per the e-gauge... typically 20+ minutes.
#32
Rennlist Member
I'd give $5 for an old-fashioned dipstick in these cars.
8.5 quarts filled mine to the full mark, after a one hour drain. My car wasn't completely horizontal, but I couldn't take it off the ramps without oil in it, and I thought pushing it off was unsafe. OCD sucks!
8.5 quarts filled mine to the full mark, after a one hour drain. My car wasn't completely horizontal, but I couldn't take it off the ramps without oil in it, and I thought pushing it off was unsafe. OCD sucks!
Last edited by Chrono; 01-13-2014 at 10:20 AM. Reason: typos
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#34
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Actually you rock.
The 997.2 with its oil filter on top requires a suction device to remove oil so, like you, I purposely under fill by marking my five quart fill bottle. Then I top off after driving; sometimes requiring two top offs.
Interesting observation (to me at least): My dealership virtually always overfilled my Boxster. They just did and said "don't worry about it". From the posts back then, 2000 to circa 2005, this was common post on these boards. Why? I dunno.
Peace
Bruce in Philly
#35
Track Day
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Edmonton Alberta
Posts: 18
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Great write up. The instructions at Renntech mentions this...
Remove the filter element. Remove the filter downwards, drain and dispose of it in accordance with local legal requirements.
Note: If the spindle/spring assembly sticks to the filter - remove it and push it back into the filter housing.
Has anyone ever had the spindle/spring assembly stick to the filter? Just did my oil change on a 997 and didn't see one... are they reffering to the spindle that the filter fits into in the engine block, didn't remember seeing a spring, just curious..???
Remove the filter element. Remove the filter downwards, drain and dispose of it in accordance with local legal requirements.
Note: If the spindle/spring assembly sticks to the filter - remove it and push it back into the filter housing.
Has anyone ever had the spindle/spring assembly stick to the filter? Just did my oil change on a 997 and didn't see one... are they reffering to the spindle that the filter fits into in the engine block, didn't remember seeing a spring, just curious..???
#36
Resurrecting an old thread. Should have read this one last week!
I sheared my LN oil plug this weekend using OEM torque values. WTF couldn't they have designed this thing to have enough MS to handle this. Perhaps a larger radius at the thread to shank root guys....
ahh well an easier out and oem plug plus 8 more quarts on order. Maybe a 6 pack of shock top and few beach chairs for my neighbors to chuckle as I go to work again
I sheared my LN oil plug this weekend using OEM torque values. WTF couldn't they have designed this thing to have enough MS to handle this. Perhaps a larger radius at the thread to shank root guys....
ahh well an easier out and oem plug plus 8 more quarts on order. Maybe a 6 pack of shock top and few beach chairs for my neighbors to chuckle as I go to work again
#37
Burning Brakes
When new the plugs come with a sticker that tells you the proper torque. I keep a maintenance log and noted it there as well, usually I look at that before I start a job. Might be a solve.
#38
(My Indy must have bought the plug before the labels were added)
#40
Racer
#41
Newbie Tip
I just did my first change and went off without a hitch. I bought this catch pan (). The issue (at least I thought so but it ended up being a plus) is that its about 6in high which is about exactly what the clearance under the car is. This meant that i didn't have room to get the pan and still have room to fit the socket/hex to get the plug out.
My solution was to jack up by the rear left suspension jack point about 3 inches. I was then able to get better access to the plug, and once it was out, i just lowered the car back down again with the pan underneath. It left only about half an inch of clearance which was perfect to prevent any splashing. When it was done, the pan could slide out easily and replace the plug with the car still on the ground.
My solution was to jack up by the rear left suspension jack point about 3 inches. I was then able to get better access to the plug, and once it was out, i just lowered the car back down again with the pan underneath. It left only about half an inch of clearance which was perfect to prevent any splashing. When it was done, the pan could slide out easily and replace the plug with the car still on the ground.
#42
Thanks to the community members for the tips.
Here one: I put in front of wheels 4 pieces of wood plank with some spikes to avoid slipping while rolling over. Their thickness is enough to provide extra clearance for the oil pan plug removal etc..., car staying horizontal. The extra clearance helps also sliding my jacks when lift up is required.
The brake fluid bleeding is easy breeze with the power bleeder kit from Motive.
Spark plugs and coils done, x-pipe done, not that easy.
My next will be new brake pads.
Here one: I put in front of wheels 4 pieces of wood plank with some spikes to avoid slipping while rolling over. Their thickness is enough to provide extra clearance for the oil pan plug removal etc..., car staying horizontal. The extra clearance helps also sliding my jacks when lift up is required.
The brake fluid bleeding is easy breeze with the power bleeder kit from Motive.
Spark plugs and coils done, x-pipe done, not that easy.
My next will be new brake pads.
#43
Rennlist Member
I do it on my Turbo all the time. 2 drain plugs instead of one and oil filter at the top...It's easy. My favorite step is drinking beer while I wait for it to drain. PM me if you need any advice.
#44
Rennlist Member
I just did my first change and went off without a hitch. I bought this catch pan (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The issue (at least I thought so but it ended up being a plus) is that its about 6in high which is about exactly what the clearance under the car is. This meant that i didn't have room to get the pan and still have room to fit the socket/hex to get the plug out.
My solution was to jack up by the rear left suspension jack point about 3 inches. I was then able to get better access to the plug, and once it was out, i just lowered the car back down again with the pan underneath. It left only about half an inch of clearance which was perfect to prevent any splashing. When it was done, the pan could slide out easily and replace the plug with the car still on the ground.
My solution was to jack up by the rear left suspension jack point about 3 inches. I was then able to get better access to the plug, and once it was out, i just lowered the car back down again with the pan underneath. It left only about half an inch of clearance which was perfect to prevent any splashing. When it was done, the pan could slide out easily and replace the plug with the car still on the ground.
#45
Rennlist Member
Changed my oil yesterday - 1st time since I've had the car ('06 Carrera S). Car was completely level in the garage. I let the oil drip for at least 20 minutes when draining. Looked up the amount of oil needed in the manual for an oil change with filter change and it says "approx. 9 quarts". I went ahead and added 9 qts (Driven DT40 5W40).
Drove it a bit afterward. Checked the level the next day and the overfill bar is lit on the little oil level display. Do you think its OK or do I need to drain a little out?
Drove it a bit afterward. Checked the level the next day and the overfill bar is lit on the little oil level display. Do you think its OK or do I need to drain a little out?
Last edited by aglaes; 05-21-2023 at 02:54 PM.