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Old 03-09-2011, 07:46 AM   #1
Jim 'n' SC
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Default Hardwired my V1.

Hardwired my V1 yesterday. Thanks to everyone who posted their instructions. I used various tips from lots of those to get the install the way I wanted it.

I looked at tapping into the overhead light console wiring, but decided I didn't want to cut the factory wiring. I ended up running the wires along the top of the windshield and down the post to the fuse box. There was an empty switched fuse block and I used an accessory fuse that you can plug into for the power. Cost about $3.50 at Autozone. Grounded it with one of the screws that holds in the fuse pannel. Works perfect! Used Edgy's tip about tying knots in the wire to hold it under the windshield...good tip Edgy.

While the light console is a lot closer to the V1 it's really much easier to just run the wires to the fuse pannel and get a empty slot there. That way your not piggy backing on another circuit that may or may not cause problems with some other device.
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Old 03-09-2011, 10:44 AM   #2
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Jim,
Did you pull the fuse box away from the body to gain access ? I see that it bolts to the body in one place, but had trouble getting it free from the wheel well area. Do you have any more details on this?

Thanks,

Dave
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Old 03-09-2011, 12:24 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by DGrayling View Post
Jim,
Did you pull the fuse box away from the body to gain access ? I see that it bolts to the body in one place, but had trouble getting it free from the wheel well area. Do you have any more details on this?

Thanks,

Dave
You do not remove the main fuse box! You do remove the carpet trim around the box (3 screws). This will allow you to install a ground wire. I used one of the nuts holding the fuse pannel in place.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:10 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim 'n' SC View Post
Hardwired my V1 yesterday. Thanks to everyone who posted their instructions. I used various tips from lots of those to get the install the way I wanted it.

I looked at tapping into the overhead light console wiring, but decided I didn't want to cut the factory wiring. I ended up running the wires along the top of the windshield and down the post to the fuse box. There was an empty switched fuse block and I used an accessory fuse that you can plug into for the power. Cost about $3.50 at Autozone. Grounded it with one of the screws that holds in the fuse pannel. Works perfect! Used Edgy's tip about tying knots in the wire to hold it under the windshield...good tip Edgy.

While the light console is a lot closer to the V1 it's really much easier to just run the wires to the fuse pannel and get a empty slot there. That way your not piggy backing on another circuit that may or may not cause problems with some other device.
Congrats on your install. Another way to deal with keeping the wire in place: I cut small pieces of foam insulation, wrapped it around the wire at several spots and then stuffed it between the headliner and windshield. No kinks in the wire, the foam holds it in place, and the possibility of any kind of rattle or buzz is eliminated.
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:15 PM   #5
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Isn't it nice to do it right, and not have wires hanging around!
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Old 03-09-2011, 02:37 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim 'n' SC View Post
Hardwired my V1 yesterday. Thanks to everyone who posted their instructions. I used various tips from lots of those to get the install the way I wanted it.

I looked at tapping into the overhead light console wiring, but decided I didn't want to cut the factory wiring. I ended up running the wires along the top of the windshield and down the post to the fuse box. There was an empty switched fuse block and I used an accessory fuse that you can plug into for the power. Cost about $3.50 at Autozone. Grounded it with one of the screws that holds in the fuse pannel. Works perfect! Used Edgy's tip about tying knots in the wire to hold it under the windshield...good tip Edgy.

While the light console is a lot closer to the V1 it's really much easier to just run the wires to the fuse pannel and get a empty slot there. That way your not piggy backing on another circuit that may or may not cause problems with some other device.
Exactly what I did. Works great.
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:15 PM   #7
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You do not remove the main fuse box! You do remove the carpet trim around the box (3 screws). This will allow you to install a ground wire. I used one of the nuts holding the fuse pannel in place.
Jim,

Great job! My question is regarding the positive fused connection. How did you connect the positive lead the the fuse box.

Dave
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Old 03-09-2011, 03:41 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by DGrayling View Post
Jim,

Great job! My question is regarding the positive fused connection. How did you connect the positive lead the the fuse box.

Dave
You buy an accessory fuse at Autozone or Advanced auto. I think I still have the box, if I do I can post the part number tomorrow. You plug that into an empty swithced socket. It has several slots in it for a male connector that you put on the end of the V1 power wire. You may have to file the edge a little to make it fit or get a smaller male connector.
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:13 PM   #9
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Is that red circled socket in post #7 a switched socket that I can use? If not can somebody give a row/number of an empty switched socket I can use?

Thanks.....
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Old 03-09-2011, 04:55 PM   #10
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Quote:
You buy an accessory fuse at Autozone or Advanced auto. I think I still have the box, if I do I can post the part number tomorrow. You plug that into an empty swithced socket. It has several slots in it for a male connector that you put on the end of the V1 power wire. You may have to file the edge a little to make it fit or get a smaller male connector.
Thanks Jim - that explains where my confusion was. Simple enough. Edgy's method of tapping directly into the wiring off the fuse box is beyond my confidence level. ( without a wiring diagram )

Quote:
Is that red circled socket in post #7 a switched socket that I can use? If not can somebody give a row/number of an empty switched socket I can use?
Thanks.....
Mark,
Not sure . . . it may depend on your car. I stole that photo from member crw's post "Steal Radar Install in a 997 (technical with lots of pics)" His description of that photo is " you can hardwire it directly to you fuse panel.
In a non 4S car use slot C1 - the unit comes with a male spade (already fused)"

Dave
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Old 03-09-2011, 11:40 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by DGrayling View Post
Jim,

Great job! My question is regarding the positive fused connection. How did you connect the positive lead the the fuse box.

Dave
There are a few ways to do it, the method I prefer most is using either the Bussmann add-a-fuse product or the Littelfuse add-a-circuit product. They're both essentially the same thing.
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Old 03-10-2011, 11:16 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Mark Harris View Post
Is that red circled socket in post #7 a switched socket that I can use? If not can somebody give a row/number of an empty switched socket I can use?

Thanks.....
I installed mine this weekend using the instructions from previous OPs - G1's Valentine wire kit with Adapta-fuse, the empty switched C1 socket (as pictured in the above post) and the readily accessible ground screw that attaches the fuse box to the body. Initially during the dry run the fuse box cover wouldn't snap shut due to the thickness of the Adapta-fuse but after I removed the carpet panel and installed the wiring, I slightly backed off when reattaching the panel and now the cover closes fine - albeit a little snug - but the Adapta-fuse will definitely not loosen from vibration.

Luckily C1 was available (997.2) as an empty switched socket so I of course used that vs. another dedicated low amperage socket that would use the piggy backed Adapta-fuse. It would probably work fine, but for me, kind of worrisome.
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:44 PM   #13
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Good work!
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Old 03-10-2011, 07:44 PM
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