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997.2 Oil Change process explained

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Old 06-14-2009, 07:03 PM
  #16  
OCBen
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
OCB,

I remember now. I did use 10 QTS on my last oil change which I just did 1st of May. and thats because I lifted the front of the car(tilted the car) to drain more oil. I still have the log and all the 10 empty QTs I used.

Of course thats not the normal way if draining it. Thats just my style.

My two prior to that were 9.5 & 9.2 QTs respectively. I let mine drain over night.

Here's my spread sheet.
You have a 997.1 with a 3.8L engine, correct?

If you do, your owner's manual says your oil capacity with oil filter is 8.5 liters, or 8.98 qts max.
Old 06-14-2009, 07:09 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Carrera Mike
I lifted the front of the car(tilted the car) to drain more oil.
By lifting the front of the car you actually prevented maximum drainage of the oil, as the oil drain is on a horizontal surface, and the way to ensure maximum drainage is to drain with the car positioned horizontally, as I note in my DIY.
Old 06-14-2009, 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by OCBen
By lifting the front of the car you actually prevented maximum drainage of the oil, as the oil drain is on a horizontal surface, and the way to ensure maximum drainage is to drain with the car positioned horizontally, as I note in my DIY.
I had the car horizontal overnight., then I did that the following day and was able to drain more oil.
Old 06-20-2009, 04:22 PM
  #19  
racer10
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Thankyou, for the advise. I was able to complete the oil and filter change today and all went well. The one thing I found a little confusing was that the owners manual says that the car, 2009 c4s takes approx. 7.9 qts and mine took about a 1/10 over 8 qts to get the bar to come to the max position. I did let the car drain fully took about an 1 and 1/2 hours before it stopped draing(my last corvette c6 z06 would drain in about 20 minutes) .Again thankyou for all your help it is appreciated.
Old 06-20-2009, 08:59 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by racer10
Thankyou, for the advise. I was able to complete the oil and filter change today and all went well. The one thing I found a little confusing was that the owners manual says that the car, 2009 c4s takes approx. 7.9 qts and mine took about a 1/10 over 8 qts to get the bar to come to the max position. I did let the car drain fully took about an 1 and 1/2 hours before it stopped draing(my last corvette c6 z06 would drain in about 20 minutes) .Again thankyou for all your help it is appreciated.
One thing that helps drain the oil faster is if you have the engine warm. Of course this means you have to be careful, but the hot oil will drain much faster.

Also, welcome to the forum. I'm sorry for the welcome wagon that you experienced.
Old 06-29-2009, 07:47 PM
  #21  
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And remember that the fill level to shoot for (as has been beaten to death in other threads) is not the 'max position' on the indicator (which I'm reading as "get all of the bars on the level graph to light up"). Thats sorta like aiming for the maximum oil level the engine can take, which is the top end of a range of good oil level. There's increased risk of overfill if you aim for that 'max position'.
Old 01-17-2010, 11:53 PM
  #22  
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Default First oil change on 2009 997.2 DFI 3.6 l Targa 4

Just supplying a data point on the 3.6 l DFI engine oil change.

Just changed the oil at 5990 mi for the first time after 14 months of ownership.

In my case, as this was my first 911 oil change on the 997.2, I used a jack to get the back end 3-4 inches higher off the ground and a flashlight to positively locate and identify the drain plug before I began work, and get the drain plug loosened and removed. With the car up 4-5 inches that left plenty of space between the top of the oil catch container and the bottom of the car to manually unscrew and remove the drain plug.

Loosened drain plug... oil started to seep very slowly around the edges of it. Got that drain pan under there and manually unscrewed by hand turning the allen socket in the drain plug.

Removed drain plug and lowered the car again (let it and the allen socket drop onto the drain pan - grid in large opening caught it)... let oil drain over an hour (football on the Tivo), then went out and removed the filter canister cover and removed old oil filter and let the engine drain another hour (again, back to the football; whats the hurry).

Put new filter canister lid rubber gasket on, whetted with oil, and put fresh filter in and put cover back on canister and torqued to 19 ft-lb.

Pulled out the oil drain pan and put drain plug with new alu washer back in and torqued down to 37 ft-lb.

Poured in 7 qts Mobil 1 0w40. Let it sit for 30 mins to run down (and I needed to install the durametric software on the laptop any way, to reset the service reminder...)

Fired up engine... which idled or about 10 mins (needed to warm to get reading)... took the car for a very slow (2nd and 3rd gear) drive around the neighborhood to warm it up. Back in garage.. read level, just short.. (bottom bar blinking). Poured another 1/2 quart in. Bottom bar on. Pour rest of quart #8 in.. now its right in the middle of the readout (ie around bar 3.. but not all the way to the top).

So with full filter change and a good 2 hrs to drain out, it took a full 8 qts new oil, in my garage (I cannot say what the angle is but it is pitched back out a slight bit, as garages are) so the backside was a few degrees lower than the front end). Given the spec is 7.9qts, I'd say that is about right. I'd also say that if you get it to the very top of the oil display range, you are probably at 8.3-8.5 qts in the engine... and thats not where you want to be.


Parts Needed:
  • 8 qts oil
  • large drain pan (10+ qts) from auto supply (w/screen on large opening to catch the drain plug)
  • new alu drain plug washer
  • jack - gives you an additional few inches to get your hand between the car and the catch pan to manually remove the drain plug while the pan is under there
  • new oil filter
  • new oil filter housing rubber gasket (green)
  • torque wrench
  • canister lid sized socket (36mm)
  • allen head socket for drain plug (8mm)
  • ratchet + 6in extension (as needed)
  • 2-3 hrs time
  • durametric software (ver 6 beta) - to reset service reminder

Last edited by Minok; 01-18-2010 at 05:25 PM.
Old 01-19-2010, 01:14 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by mdrums
If I get booted from here...well then OK, I could care... but....OC Ben you are an absolute F'n azzhole! You are the exact kind of guy I like to take outside and smash their head against the curb a few times. Nice way to welcome someone new to the board no matter what their question might be... it is important to them.
Hey dog face - HELLO - that post took place sometime in the last decade............over 7 mos ago.

Try to keep up will ya. I realize you're a bit handicapped but we're living in a new decade now.

I've got more posts to show you from years past that will likely have you foaming at the mouth, and it won't be just from the rabies you're used to.

Old 01-19-2010, 02:51 AM
  #24  
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My GOSH I cannot believe that such absolute drivel is going on in the 997 forum. If anyone wants to rattle my cage about my previous post, please just send the gripe (or what have you) to renn@weatherwax.net Curse me out, send me car pics, I don't care. I am just so sad to see that RL is going down. It is and likely always will be my favorite place.

So I am openly telling you all . . gripe all you want -- gave ya my stupid email addy. This is usually such a fun list. What the hell happened??? Sorry for the vulgarity . . . for those of you know about my severe back problem, you might understand.

What do we need to do to get Renn back the way we used to be??? If you are not willing to 'bitch', then do not expect changes. I very likely could get my 'moderator' status revoked for asking that, but with all due respect, I will take that chance. I just want to help.

Blessings,
Old 01-19-2010, 03:32 AM
  #25  
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With all the problems we have getting under these cars sometimes I'm surprised more builders are not building a small pit in the center of one garage stall. All it would take is about a foot to do it.
Old 01-19-2010, 10:04 AM
  #26  
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I have no problems with my Carrera -- I just take it to Harry Williams (who happens to be our local PCA chapter's tech adviser). I still tinker with the Miatas and sometimes the truck, but a Porsche is too expensive to mess up, lol.
Old 01-19-2010, 02:46 PM
  #27  
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Wow, that was weird last night.

mdrums going off the deep end, spewing profanity and making death threats.

He probably knew that making death threats on this forum would result in a permanent ban, so it sounds like he was trying to commit suicide by mod.

What he may not have known is that making death threats over the internet is a criminal offense, and the Tampa, Florida police was almost called out to pay him a visit (maybe they were called for all I know).

Weird.
Old 01-19-2010, 02:53 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by OCBen
By lifting the front of the car you actually prevented maximum drainage of the oil, as the oil drain is on a horizontal surface, and the way to ensure maximum drainage is to drain with the car positioned horizontally, as I note in my DIY.
here are some 997.2 specific photo's i took when recently changing the oil
i've been too lazy to write a DIY, or actually, i don't know how to easily order the photo's and explanatory text in these threads to make for a cogent story.
somebody teach me how to do this????????? and i'll write a DIY.

cheers

Craig
Attached Images         
Old 01-19-2010, 03:02 PM
  #29  
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Looks good, Craig.

I think your photos make the procedure pretty self explanatory.

I'll just add these links to where most of the actual procedure is discussed:

https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...the-997-a.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/997-foru...il-change.html
Old 01-19-2010, 03:26 PM
  #30  
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I'll share this again, picture of filter housing with the filter removed. Push the filter into the housing and then re-install the cover.



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