Opinions on Lapis Blue paint...does it scratch more oftern...
#1
Opinions on Lapis Blue paint...does it scratch more oftern...
...or is it just me? I've had many dark colors before (black, midnight blue met, etc.) but my current car with Lapis Blue seems to get scratched just by looking at it the wrong way! I can also remember seeing other lapis blue p-cars and they always seemed to have at least some amount of fine scratches. Anyone else seem to have this problem? I use P21S paint cleaner & wax...apply both with a sponge applicator from Griots and wipe with microfiber towels from Griots...very frustrating to see fine scratches after giving it a good once over with the cleaner & wax...
BK
Here's a pic of the car on an overcast day...pretty dark looking under clouds, lol!
BK
Here's a pic of the car on an overcast day...pretty dark looking under clouds, lol!
#2
I was experiencing those constant micro scratches on my Atlas Grey, so I have started to buff the paint with a Porter-Cable orbital polisher, a Meguiar's velcro base plate, a Meguiar's 8006 velcro buffing pad and Meguiar's #83 professional soft cut polish... after cleaning the surface with P21S cleaner.
The buffing is quick and easy with the polisher, set on 3 out of 6 speeds, and very effective. It is important to have a new to relatively new velcro base plate on the polisher or the buffing pad will not get the full effort of the machine... use a healthy amount of #83 as it is the polish that does the magic.
Finally, I finish with P21S wax. End result, the scratches are gone and the paint is as flawless as a telescope mirror.
Occassionally, as often as I can feel grit on the paint, usually at the back fascia, I will clay the paint after cleaning the paint with 3M auto clay and LOTS of Meguiar's Quick Detailer spray as a surfactant.
Autogeek.net is where I get all my stuff.
Good luck!
The buffing is quick and easy with the polisher, set on 3 out of 6 speeds, and very effective. It is important to have a new to relatively new velcro base plate on the polisher or the buffing pad will not get the full effort of the machine... use a healthy amount of #83 as it is the polish that does the magic.
Finally, I finish with P21S wax. End result, the scratches are gone and the paint is as flawless as a telescope mirror.
Occassionally, as often as I can feel grit on the paint, usually at the back fascia, I will clay the paint after cleaning the paint with 3M auto clay and LOTS of Meguiar's Quick Detailer spray as a surfactant.
Autogeek.net is where I get all my stuff.
Good luck!
Last edited by JohnnyNarcosis; 12-26-2006 at 12:07 AM. Reason: ...because there is an 'r' in Velcro....
#3
dark colors show more micro scratches. They just require more work.
My son's dark blue Boxster S was showing lots of scratches. After a professional detail it looked brand new and has held up beautifully ever since.
I also find the PC orb buffer to be a great tool. I use the Menzerna line with great success. I have tried them all (except Zaino) and find this line of products to give great results w/o back breaking effort.
My son's dark blue Boxster S was showing lots of scratches. After a professional detail it looked brand new and has held up beautifully ever since.
I also find the PC orb buffer to be a great tool. I use the Menzerna line with great success. I have tried them all (except Zaino) and find this line of products to give great results w/o back breaking effort.
#4
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the micro swirls I recommend 3M Ultrafine 3000 (blue) applied via non abrasive foam with a wax finish.
5 black cars worth of experience... the combo works!
Perhaps a pro detail guy should comment.
5 black cars worth of experience... the combo works!
Perhaps a pro detail guy should comment.
Last edited by Ron Adair; 12-26-2006 at 09:45 AM.
#5
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it! Looks like its time to really get in there and go to work on the paint. I guess I was spoiled by my last two p-cars...White and Seal Grey...nothing showed on either of those!
blylek
blylek
#6
Originally Posted by BK
Thanks for the suggestions guys, I appreciate it! Looks like its time to really get in there and go to work on the paint. I guess I was spoiled by my last two p-cars...White and Seal Grey...nothing showed on either of those!
blylek
blylek
#7
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Norwalk,CT
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by JohnnyNarcosis
I was experiencing those constant micro scratches on my Atlas Grey, so I have started to buff the paint with a Porter-Cable orbital polisher, a Meguiar's velcro base plate, a Meguiar's 8006 velcro buffing pad and Meguiar's #83 professional soft cut polish... after cleaning the surface with P21S cleaner.
The buffing is quick and easy with the polisher, set on 3 out of 6 speeds, and very effective. It is important to have a new to relatively new velcro base plate on the polisher or the buffing pad will not get the full effort of the machine... use a healthy amount of #83 as it is the polish that does the magic.
Finally, I finish with P21S wax. End result, the scratches are gone and the paint is as flawless as a telescope mirror.
Occassionally, as often as I can feel grit on the paint, usually at the back fascia, I will clay the paint after cleaning the paint with 3M auto clay and LOTS of Meguiar's Quick Detailer spray as a surfactant.
Autogeek.net is where I get all my stuff.
Good luck!
The buffing is quick and easy with the polisher, set on 3 out of 6 speeds, and very effective. It is important to have a new to relatively new velcro base plate on the polisher or the buffing pad will not get the full effort of the machine... use a healthy amount of #83 as it is the polish that does the magic.
Finally, I finish with P21S wax. End result, the scratches are gone and the paint is as flawless as a telescope mirror.
Occassionally, as often as I can feel grit on the paint, usually at the back fascia, I will clay the paint after cleaning the paint with 3M auto clay and LOTS of Meguiar's Quick Detailer spray as a surfactant.
Autogeek.net is where I get all my stuff.
Good luck!
Always, use the least cut of any polish and pad first. P21 Paintwork Cleanser is always a very good start. If this doesn't remove enough defects, step up to a higher cut polish, such as Sonus polishes made for swirl removing such as SFX-3 or SFX-2. If a polishing pad does not do enough, switch to a cutting pad, but use the same low cut polishes. Then follow with a polish pad and finer polishes such as Menzerna FPII.
You're LSP (last Step Product) is up to you, wax or sealant.
May I suggest you become a member over at Autopia.org to gain more ideas and reviews of products that best matches your requirments.
Or, seek out a professional detailer and learn from him/her on how to maintain the finish after a full detail.
Regards,
Deanski
Trending Topics
#8
Racer
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Santa Barbara, CA
Posts: 410
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Deanski
Holy crap! You're using Meg's DACP on a Porsche finish? That's a bit harsh, unless it's really bad as DACP can haze very quickly.
What does DACP stand for? I never want to be harsh!
Thanks.
Ron
#9
Three Wheelin'
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Norwalk,CT
Posts: 1,853
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Ron Adair
Deanski -
What does DACP stand for? I never want to be harsh!
Thanks.
Ron
What does DACP stand for? I never want to be harsh!
Thanks.
Ron
If you want a polish that can cut and polish, I understand the Optimum Polish works very well. Never tried it yet, but from what I hear, it's a multi-duty polish in that it can do moderate cut yet work down to a fine polish.
For people not too experienced with polishing, the Sonus line which was developed by a Porsche owner. They group polishes and pads together for best results. Very good results have been obtained with Sonus line.
For more experienced, I'd use Menzerna polishes. The two are Intensive Polish (IP) and Final Polish II (FPII) which are German polishes and leave the finish very glossy with the right pads.
Always work from very mild with a polish pad first, set the "PC" on 5 to 6 then increase the cut level of the polish. It may take a few passes. If you have deeper swirls, then a cutting pad will be needed with a cut/polish product. That's where DACP comes in, but with a cutting pad, it can haze the finish, which means you have to step to a polish pad and a finer polish to remove the haze. With a polish pad, DACP will haze a whole lot less and break-down to a polish (which it should do). DACP has to be worked untill it dusts. Slow down the PC when a polish breaks-down. Another trick is to mist the area when the polish starts to break-down with distilled water to work it a bit longer.
I'll work Menzerna FPII or another Menzerna polish P085RD with a polish pad, then finish pad to really burnish the finish to a very high gloss.
For myself, I use Zaino sealants due to the long life of the sealant, the look, easy to maintain and tight beading of water on the finish. You can top a sealant with a high quality wax to ad more depth, but if more sealant was to be added (sealants can layer), the wax has to be removed first.
P21S wax works very well with metallics and makes them pop. Darker colors, Souveran wax deepens the look.
There are many wax and sealants, it's all personal preference.
Regards,
Deanski
#10
The DACP is a bit harsh, as Deanski has noted. The Optimum polish is very user friendly and the new Optimum Poli-Seal is very nice stuff. Thanks to Deanski and Anthony Orosco for their many tips, I've found that my black car finishes nicely with Optimum polish on a polishing pad, then some FPII on a finish pad. I top mine off with Optimum Car Wax or Duragloss.
OTOH, you'll drive yourself nuts if you try to keep these cars absolutely flawless. And, may I suggest Optimum Car Wash if you haven't tried this yet, it's a great time saver. Also, as noted in an earlier post, a Porter Cable can really help.
Maybe you live not too far from a good detailer or someone who has some experience with a Porter Cable that could show you how to use it?
OTOH, you'll drive yourself nuts if you try to keep these cars absolutely flawless. And, may I suggest Optimum Car Wash if you haven't tried this yet, it's a great time saver. Also, as noted in an earlier post, a Porter Cable can really help.
Maybe you live not too far from a good detailer or someone who has some experience with a Porter Cable that could show you how to use it?