OCBen

Yes, you need to torque the drain plug, and being made of aluminum you don't want to over torque it. The torque value is in the Service Manual. Oh wait, you didn't order one, did you? Hmmm, it's gonna cost you now, Kurt. ... Just messin' with ya.

The tightening torque value for the drain plug is 37 ft-lbs.

Oh, I used the recommended Mobil1 0W40.

OCBen

I believe the socket size for it is 27 mm. But since I don't have a metric socket that big, a 1-1/16 socket fits perfectly (= 26.9875 mm).

Actually anytime you're using a cantilevered wrench you are placing a bending moment that is transmitted from the end of the wrench handle down to the axis of rotation of the part that is being turned, as well as a torque.

The only way to eliminate this bending moment is to use a double ended wrench handle with the socket in the center so that you are pushing with one end and pulling with the other, thereby applying a pure torque (a "couple" for those who speak the science of mechanics) with no bending moment.

The advantage of using the socket tool is in being able to use a torque wrench.

snarf

Ben, many thanks for taking the time to document this - it's a real easy to follow guide. I've read a few comments about dealers overfilling by as much as 1.4 quarts (what's that in litres? no don't bother ) so your comments on volume are especially helpful.

Years ago I used to rebuild my own engines (Lotus twin cam), gearboxes, diffs etc. and I always made a point of changing the oil after each rebuild at 500 miles, then 1000 then every 3000. This was perhaps a little over-cautious, my wife said obsessive, but I think I'll be doing my first 911 oil change at around 1000 miles. Just 47 days to go before I take delivery, assuming all goes to plan that is.

snarf

Ben, a thought that might help ease your concerns over the colour of your oil. I've never owned a car with an aluminium engine block but I know that materials used to clean aluminium parts do become black very quickly, so is it possible that the oil in aluminium engine blocks will discolour more rapidly than that in steel engine blocks and that this may not necessarily indicate any lack of lubricating properties or damaging abrasive content? Sleep well

munro86

I thought the oil looked very clean

kauai_diver

Right snarf and munro86, the oil that came out of my 3-series BMW always looked dark whether I changed it at 5000 miles or 12000.

raffi

do you take the engine out when you are detailing your car? I couldnt see a speck of dust.
it looks like you used the filter wrench that porsche sells, they are usually around $30 if I remember correctly. if you can find the "generic" equivalent you may get it for cheaper, it is the same size that some mercedes models use.
I used a filter wrench I bought from autozone it wasnt as high quality, made of some black anodized aluminum, it was around $5 and works perfectly can be used with a torque wrench.

Cogito

Thanks very much Ben, I Bookmarked this thread for future reference.
Did you notice though that your rear tire (Pic #2) isn't exactly centered on the Magnum-8?

"Monk"

Crazy Canuck

I kinda did my own.

I bought some Mobil 1 and a filter . . . drove to my buddy's garage . . . chatted while he changed the oil on the lift . . .

Next time I'll do it as my company bought his lift when he needed to get a new one.

Coochas

Outstanding DIY write up Ben.

gota911

Crazy - what part of the oil change did you do again?... oh, yeah, you bought the oil and filter.... Well, at least you did contribute to the porcess!

ronmart

Awesome - thanks for posting Ben!

SDD

Thanks for the very interesting and well-documented post. This is interesting and I am curious as to what the explanation could be:
Obviously, engines do wear over time, hence the need for reaming cylinder walls at overhaul time, right? So what accounts for this difference between theory and practice? Does the wear occur momentarily at start up, after oil has drained off the cylinder wall? Is it due to road vibration and vertical displacement of the engine on the mounts?
And since there should never be any engine wear (theoretically), could you run an engine continuously (theoretically), always maintaining sufficient oil pressure and cleanliness (theoretically), for 100K miles and experience no engine wear? This seems counter-intuitive, but we are talking theory here.

thanks

OCBen

That's an interesting point, Snarf. Yes, I've seen this type of reaction before with aluminum, or aluminium as you Brits say. Not sure if this is what is causing the dark color.

I do know that when I changed the oil (twice) in my Boxster S the oil was never this dark. Hmmm, I'll have to ask the service tech at the dealership on my way home tonight to see what he says.
Thanks. I enjoy the fact that I can get at my engine to detail it, unlike my Boxster's engine that was difficult to access. Every chance I get, usually after washing the car, I like to go in there and wipe off dust before it has a chance to stick and become more difficult to remove later. I have a detailing sponge with a long handle that I use to reach as far back as I can see to wipe and clean.

MMD

What? No jackstands? Always put jackstands under the car. Do not trust ramps, never trust a jack alone.