mffarrell

btw good question on the rms. for the +40 bucks while its staring you in the face? why not.[/QUOTE]

But, how to you put the damn seal in without the tool?

"02996ttx50

i don't recall any special tool being necessary, and the rms is basically just a large o ring.

mffarrell

I it has to go in straight at an exact depth of 13 mm. You have one shot at it with using a large socket/pipe and hammer.

"02996ttx50

i don't recall the installation of the rms as being anything other than a simple replacement as my trans was being re-installed. perhaps that is because all i can remember is the shift fork hanging up 3 or 4 times.

if you have "one shot" then that would only be because you munched the rubber seal. also, no hammer.
i have no idea what you mean.

mffarrell

Could you please advise me how you installed your seal?

Thank You!

"02996ttx50

i don't have a step by step tutorial and i am not a diy mechanic, per se so i can't guide you through the process. i'm a guy that stands there watchfully while much, ( if not all ) on my car happens.

what i can tell you, is that installation of the rms on my car was NBD and was a simple "gasket" replacement ( afaik? ) and can recall that took place as ( ahem ) "we" were re-installing my gearbox ( and new clutch actually ) .. there was definitely no "hammer" involved except possibly(?) a tap or two to settle it in? again, its just a "round" piece of rubber. it's an "o ring" for lack of a better descriptive.

add: a quick look at pelicans site says there is indeed a "special tool" but i am reasonably certain my buddy didnt use one. also no "alignment tool" either. perhaps that is why it took 3/4 tries to align the clutch fork ?! lol..

and you do "tap" in the seal, but not by much ( as i recall ) it took a minute or two.. tops.

mffarrell

Thanks!

88mmm

My rms was replaced 30k miles ago when the PO had the trans out for rebuilding so I decided not to change it. It wasn't weeping at all. I've been burned in the past by a shop doing a poor job on a rms install so I'm biased.

"02996ttx50

i had mine seeping for quite awhile. as you probably know porsche has a numerical rating system for the actual severity of the rms "seep" e.g. 1/2/3 etc. mine began at a "1" and made it to at least a "3" before i swapped mine. but as nasty as it was to see oil leaking however slowly from the area where the seal joins the crank, i still waited until i *had* to open 'er up. it would suck to spend 6-8 hours just going in to r&r a simple seal.

for that reason, i would r&r mine anytime i could visibly "see" the seal. its only 40 bucks and again, you;'re right "there".

88mmm

I had an experience with my Saab where the RMS was replaced when the clutch was replaced, it was not leaking at the time. The new RMS was not seated correctly leaked oil and burned up my new clutch. It was ugly. I watched the video below before taking my car in and decided against replacement if the seal was ok. I wasn't sure this particular shop would have the special tool. Maybe it was the wrong decision but I didn't want to end up in the same predicament.

mffarrell

That's the tool I was talking about. The seal needs to sit 13 mm below the case opening edge. He is taking a chance not measuring with a caliper. It is very easy for the seal to slip into the case. When I do my clutch, I will leave the RMS alone if no seepage is detected.

tom153

3" PVC cap

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Charlotte-P...40-Cap/3133057

https://www.grainger.com/product/20L...170503184158:s

"02996ttx50

the guy that does the work on my car must think that using/needing special tools are beneath him lol