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Shot in the dark. Help dropping my engine

Old 01-31-2017, 08:23 PM
  #16  
uwrasta
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Originally Posted by 911mhawk
I dropped my engine and trans last year and would recommend doing them together if you want to replace the slave/accum and clean it up. Seemed almost easier to do them together than just removing the transmission when I did that.
While out pinning, replace rubber hoses, fuel pump, belt, plugs/coils, and coolant res too.

No promises, but if you're doing it late Feb or March I may be able to help for a few.
Hydraulic table is a must in my version to drop the combo.
That would be awesome. I know people are busy and have lives. Not sure if I'm up to it on my own but hell might give it a try. I don't mind getting a hydraulic cart. I might actually go buy one this week cause we are dropping the motor/trans in my 914.

If you found that you could make some time I'd just wait till feb/march to get started. I feel like once I see it come out i should be able to get it back in!!! I'll just take lots of pics and document along the way.

Anyway let me know and maybe we could plan for it!!!!
I really appreciate!!!!!
Old 02-02-2017, 05:10 PM
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Mikes3.0cabturbo
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Guarantee you can pin all of them in car using a right angle drill attachment, you need to strip off much of the engine accessories to get to them all, bitch of a job. I spent two days doing it.

regards
mike
Old 02-03-2017, 02:34 PM
  #18  
T10Chris
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Originally Posted by Mikes3.0cabturbo
Guarantee you can pin all of them in car using a right angle drill attachment, you need to strip off much of the engine accessories to get to them all, bitch of a job. I spent two days doing it.

regards
mike
Even the ones at the oil cooler?
Old 02-07-2017, 02:42 PM
  #19  
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997 but this will guide you


https://rennlist.com/forums/997-gt2-...n-the-car.html
Old 02-08-2017, 01:20 AM
  #20  
32krazy!
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Originally Posted by T10Chris
Even the ones at the oil cooler?
90* drill will get you to the oil cooler fittings. i removed the intake manifold to help make it easier
Old 02-08-2017, 01:21 AM
  #21  
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T10Chris, yes I did it myself, its a bitch getting in to the rear pinnings, however you can do all of them, I used a Dremel remote 90 degree attachment and 4mm SS grub screws.
regards
mike
Old 02-08-2017, 01:49 AM
  #22  
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I caution the terminology used in these pinning threads..

I am going to explain two different methods

1) A quick fix to gain access to the race track where pinning or welding the coolant fittings is a requirement. Pinning the fittings will prevent a sudden coolant failure and possible risk/track safety issue.

Please note: pinning will NOT remove the risk of a coolant fitting leak. The original Porsche bonding/glue can fail and has failed with pinned fittings. In this case, coolant will seep slowly past the fitting and leak. Not uncommon to have a quarter size puddle on the floor. In some situations the leak is very small and takes months to produce noticeable coolant. We can see these leaks with dry coolant staining.

2) Pinning the coolant fitting. With the additional process of removing the fittings, cleaning the fittings and re-epoxy the fitting in the housings. This is a "more" secure method. Welding the fittings is another approach.

The reason why I have posted my thoughts is.. Recently I have see a PPI report from a Rennlister. The owner mentioned that the coolant fittings were pinned and the COST of repair improved the "value" of the car.. However, the PPI mentioned that the coolant fitting in the heat exchanger housing was seeping coolant. The cost to drop the engine and repair the leak was more than the original pinning expense/cost..

So, buyer beware, consumer beware. Pinnning fittings has risk, make sure that you understand all the options.
Old 02-08-2017, 04:28 AM
  #23  
911mhawk
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Originally Posted by Kevin
I caution the terminology used in these pinning threads..

I am going to explain two different methods

1) A quick fix to gain access to the race track where pinning or welding the coolant fittings is a requirement. Pinning the fittings will prevent a sudden coolant failure and possible risk/track safety issue.

Please note: pinning will NOT remove the risk of a coolant fitting leak. The original Porsche bonding/glue can fail and has failed with pinned fittings. In this case, coolant will seep slowly past the fitting and leak. Not uncommon to have a quarter size puddle on the floor. In some situations the leak is very small and takes months to produce noticeable coolant. We can see these leaks with dry coolant staining.

2) Pinning the coolant fitting. With the additional process of removing the fittings, cleaning the fittings and re-epoxy the fitting in the housings. This is a "more" secure method. Welding the fittings is another approach.

The reason why I have posted my thoughts is.. Recently I have see a PPI report from a Rennlister. The owner mentioned that the coolant fittings were pinned and the COST of repair improved the "value" of the car.. However, the PPI mentioned that the coolant fitting in the heat exchanger housing was seeping coolant. The cost to drop the engine and repair the leak was more than the original pinning expense/cost..

So, buyer beware, consumer beware. Pinnning fittings has risk, make sure that you understand all the options.
Your points often illustrate what is not considered by many, including myself at times.
Many thanks -Mark
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