Cost to pin coolant hoses?
11-27-2016, 02:11 PM
#31
RL Community Team
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I just drove my turbo from SLC UT to Encinitas CA. I thought I had addressed this problem 5 years ago having bought the Torque Solution kit and paying a local race shop to drop the motor and weld all the fittings, on my way to a meeting in Encinitas blew a fitting turns out almost none were actually welded! Super sucks thinking it was done and driving and tracking the car ever since. Complete bull****!!
11-27-2016, 02:46 PM
#32
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11-27-2016, 05:21 PM
#33
Nordschleife Master
11-27-2016, 10:04 PM
#34
Rennlist Member
Peritus: the Dealers in Ontario seem to offer special pricing on Porsches 15 years and older. I think the low labour rate gets them some of these cars back to work on that they would not have had a chance based on regular pricing. Oakville had in an ad recently that all 996s qualify for the reduced rate.
11-27-2016, 10:06 PM
#35
Rennlist Member
did you use a pump? can you explain the method you used please?
11-28-2016, 10:25 AM
#36
Race Car
Thread Starter
Peritus: the Dealers in Ontario seem to offer special pricing on Porsches 15 years and older. I think the low labour rate gets them some of these cars back to work on that they would not have had a chance based on regular pricing. Oakville had in an ad recently that all 996s qualify for the reduced rate.
11-28-2016, 11:01 AM
#37
RL Community Team
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11-28-2016, 12:15 PM
#38
Race Director
What is the regular shop time cost/hour?
My experience here in the SF bay area Porsche dealers don't discount labor for older cars. In some cases -- thankfully not with my local dealer -- owners of older cars are not in favor as the dealers have the service staff busy taking care of new car PDI's and warranty/recall work.
Working on older cars often has the tech encountering other issues that can extend the time required to do the work. Bolts break. Or a bracket gives up. Old wiring and connectors can be delicate. Same with hoses and plastics, etc.
If the car has been serviced by an inept indy shop or by a DIY'er often various things are borderline busted. (Even if the car has been serviced by a dealer. Around 2 years ago I had my Boxster in for CV boots. The tech removed, cleaned, inspected, repacked and installed the half shafts and their CV bearings. Thankfully the hardware was reusable. But he told me he ran into a problem: Seems the socket head screws that were used to bolt the axle flanges to the diff were stripped. The heads that is were striped. The tech managed to remove all of them but it him took extra time. (And of course he had to order new replacement screws too.) The only time those had been touched was when I had the car for a new RMS way back in the middle of 2002. This was warranty work and done at the dealer where I bought the car.)
Service departments are so busy that in the case of my cars and my local dealer once in a while I've had one of my cars in for something and had to wait a while -- days even a week or more -- as my car kept getting bumped to let the techs take care of more pressing things with other cars.
Since I have a 2nd car this is not a problem and the SM appreciates my patience and flexibility in this regard.
With a "reduced hourly rate" you have to be concerned about while the hourly rate is in fact reduced the shop bills book time and not actual time. Thus if the regular rate is say $150/hour and the tech only requires 2 hours the labor comes to $300. But if the rate is say $120/hour and the shop bills book time and the book time is 3 hours (even if it took the tech just 2 hours) the labor comes to $360. Or possibly even the job gets put on the least experienced tech and you pay his actual time, which may be even more than book time.
My experience here in the SF bay area Porsche dealers don't discount labor for older cars. In some cases -- thankfully not with my local dealer -- owners of older cars are not in favor as the dealers have the service staff busy taking care of new car PDI's and warranty/recall work.
Working on older cars often has the tech encountering other issues that can extend the time required to do the work. Bolts break. Or a bracket gives up. Old wiring and connectors can be delicate. Same with hoses and plastics, etc.
If the car has been serviced by an inept indy shop or by a DIY'er often various things are borderline busted. (Even if the car has been serviced by a dealer. Around 2 years ago I had my Boxster in for CV boots. The tech removed, cleaned, inspected, repacked and installed the half shafts and their CV bearings. Thankfully the hardware was reusable. But he told me he ran into a problem: Seems the socket head screws that were used to bolt the axle flanges to the diff were stripped. The heads that is were striped. The tech managed to remove all of them but it him took extra time. (And of course he had to order new replacement screws too.) The only time those had been touched was when I had the car for a new RMS way back in the middle of 2002. This was warranty work and done at the dealer where I bought the car.)
Service departments are so busy that in the case of my cars and my local dealer once in a while I've had one of my cars in for something and had to wait a while -- days even a week or more -- as my car kept getting bumped to let the techs take care of more pressing things with other cars.
Since I have a 2nd car this is not a problem and the SM appreciates my patience and flexibility in this regard.
With a "reduced hourly rate" you have to be concerned about while the hourly rate is in fact reduced the shop bills book time and not actual time. Thus if the regular rate is say $150/hour and the tech only requires 2 hours the labor comes to $300. But if the rate is say $120/hour and the shop bills book time and the book time is 3 hours (even if it took the tech just 2 hours) the labor comes to $360. Or possibly even the job gets put on the least experienced tech and you pay his actual time, which may be even more than book time.
11-28-2016, 01:58 PM
#39
Three Wheelin'
I hesitate to post this because it probably isn't the safest method and I'm sure someone will say something about it damaging something.....
Club racer friend showed me this trick, he uses it on his spec cars for quick draining, I am not vouching for it being fool proof or "Porsche approved", but it worked for me..
Pull a coolant hose on the return circuit. Start the car and let it run until the flow slows/stops then shut it off (after thermostat opens)... open the drain plugs for the rest.
As long as temps are monitored it isn't going to overheat or hurt anything any more than it would if the car dumped all the coolant on track for any other reason.
Club racer friend showed me this trick, he uses it on his spec cars for quick draining, I am not vouching for it being fool proof or "Porsche approved", but it worked for me..
Pull a coolant hose on the return circuit. Start the car and let it run until the flow slows/stops then shut it off (after thermostat opens)... open the drain plugs for the rest.
As long as temps are monitored it isn't going to overheat or hurt anything any more than it would if the car dumped all the coolant on track for any other reason.
11-28-2016, 03:24 PM
#41
Rennlist Member