Third-Reef

Using the 1/4" hex drill bit and spiral flute drill/tap, angle head and an assortment of 1/4" hex extensions made the drilling and tapping part a breeze. the chips were not a problem as the 1/8" drill goes through the casting the chips are falling out and then as it goes through the tubular part two long curls come out pushing all the chips out of the drill flutes. Then the spiral Drill/tap pushes its chips out also. I checked the one right above the thermostat, after drilling there was almost no detectable chips that had fallen into the thermostat area. Only some slight specks i would describe as dust The 1/8" drill in just under size. The tap drill for 8-32 is a #29 or .136. So the combo Drill/tap cleans it up and taps it great using the cordless drill and the same drive and extensions as the used for the drill. I chose to use JB weld instead of red locktite because i had it. Doing 6 out of the 8 fittings added about 3 hours to my water pump/thermostat replacement job. I did not do the two under the oil cooler as i just could not get myself to dig in there. As a note the only pinned fitting you can see when it is assembled is the one on the elbow fitting coming up to the right of and behind the AC compressor

TheDeckMan

Nice little tool package there.

horsepowerfarm

You may want to get under the cooler as those lines are the most likely to blow.
Just my personal experience after pinning more than 40 engines

Third-Reef

I thought the one behind the alternator was the most likely to let go. Oh well, doesn't really mater now. with 6 of 8 done i should have reduced my chances of it happening by 75%. When the motor comes out for a clutch or ? they will get done.

993GT

goodstuff! but really is an much easier job when the engine is out...