Richard.

This is a part (YES the one which looks a little like a DV valve with the rod attached to the turbo) needs to be well maintained with WD40 as it can rust and cause all sorts of engine problems which you may think are boost leak or MAF related, Just solved a full turbo power issue with my car

jumper5836

Is this easy to get at, and photo of the location?

Ck986

Can you tell us new to Turbo cars how to properly maintain the Watergate actuators? The actuator rods are attached to the turbos behind the rear wheels.

993GT

they are 'maintenance free' like any turbo car...just more susceptible to corrosion if winter(salt) driven due to their proximity to the road spray
best 'maintenance' for your wastegates is to drive the car hard and get those wastegate cycling very frequently

"02996ttx50

i've also had wg actuator issues. it's confusing as the symptoms mirror boost leaks, failing/dirty mafs etc.

but they do get out of whack.. or rusted, 'tis true.

Ck986

So what part of the Watergate are you lubricating with wd40? Is the wg rod supposed to move easily by hand? Never had a turbo car before this and realize this can be a problem given the location of the turbos.

fpb111

The "Tricky Richards" On your WATERGATES need to be lubed with $$$.
The actuator rods on the WASTEGATE could be lubed with Water Displacement 40 (WD40).
They look similar to the piece with the black hose running to the center:

Atrox

Where are you lubricating?

jeanmarcboilard

You would want to lubricate the "hinge" at the turbine housing, where it needs to move back and forth.

Richard.

EXACTLY !!! is my MAF broken, do I have a boost leak, why is my car stuttering on full throttle, NO it's simply non lubricated turbo actuator valves .....

Third-Reef

The actuator itself has nothing to lubricate in it. It is an elastomer diaphragm with a rod attached to it. The pivot at the turbo (where the adjusting nuts are) runs in in the 200 to 500 deg. F range, make sure to use the high temp WD40. The real reason for binding most of the time is things not being aligned properly when the nuts are tightened down. When adjusting the cracking pressure for the actuators it should be easy to move the rods/actuators through their travel. It should be fairly smooth and not have the little pivot block on the end of the rod cocked and binding. Trying to check for binding while the actuators are exerting their full spring pressure on the rods is essentially impossible.

wross996tt

Hmmmm yeah there is nothing to lubricate. Yes they can become corroded and out of adjustment...WD40 is NOT a lubricant FWIW, it is a solvent (quite the opposite) and may dissolve certain contaminants like rust.

Richard.

Rust; of which there is often plenty here

jeanmarcboilard

What you said about the high temp is true, wd40 would burn off. High temp grease would work. Some drivers never get on the boost and the pivot point is never exercised and can seize. Checking for movement on the actuator rod is actually quite easy. Disconnect the hose to the actuator and use a mityvac or compressed air to move it.

Richard.

All I can say its made a massive difference to my TT for circa $5