Ignition problem....
09-25-2016, 02:00 AM
#17
Rennlist Member
Macster - I am surprised that you aren't willing to try swapping the electrical portion of the switch first. There are a ton of threads on this very common failure. Buy the more expensive switch online for $26 or run by NAPA and get the $12 one that they keep in stock. Took me 19 minutes to swap it out last time I did it.
09-25-2016, 01:19 PM
#19
Race Director
Thread Starter
Macster - I am surprised that you aren't willing to try swapping the electrical portion of the switch first. There are a ton of threads on this very common failure. Buy the more expensive switch online for $26 or run by NAPA and get the $12 one that they keep in stock. Took me 19 minutes to swap it out last time I did it.
Besides I have no desire to work on cars anymore. I have had my fill of working on cars.
Last but not least like I pointed out in an earlier post the behavior doesn't suggest an electrical switch is the problem so even if I did tackle this I think it would be for naught.
09-25-2016, 02:11 PM
#20
Rennlist Member
Gotcha. Wasn't dissing you - it just surprised me.
Will disagree on the symptoms though. Lots of reported instances where people swore it was something more than that electrical part of the switch - crunching, grabby, mechanical-feeling symptoms. Pretty much always turns out to be that part.
Will disagree on the symptoms though. Lots of reported instances where people swore it was something more than that electrical part of the switch - crunching, grabby, mechanical-feeling symptoms. Pretty much always turns out to be that part.
09-25-2016, 02:26 PM
#21
09-26-2016, 11:11 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
My tech did this fix 2 weeks ago. $35 in Canada for the Audi/vw switch and half hour labour. Total fix was under $100. I also don t work on cars any more but luckily I have a great tech close by
09-27-2016, 12:24 AM
#23
Dealers in the US typically change the entire ignition switch mechanism because the electrical portion Is no longer sold by Porsche. I recently purchased one and am planning on installing it this winter, because I have had two electrical switches fail. The second failed in two years (and I don't drive every day).
09-27-2016, 01:38 AM
#24
Am not allowed to work on cars here. Besides that I have a bad thumb on my left hand and can't grip worth a darn. Been so busy have not had a break in my work to take time off to have this fixed with surgery. (Had the right thumb operated on when I was out of work in the fall of 2014. It is much better but not 100%.)
Besides I have no desire to work on cars anymore. I have had my fill of working on cars.
Last but not least like I pointed out in an earlier post the behavior doesn't suggest an electrical switch is the problem so even if I did tackle this I think it would be for naught.
Besides I have no desire to work on cars anymore. I have had my fill of working on cars.
Last but not least like I pointed out in an earlier post the behavior doesn't suggest an electrical switch is the problem so even if I did tackle this I think it would be for naught.
09-27-2016, 10:13 AM
#25
RL Community Team
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
09-27-2016, 11:57 AM
#26
Race Director
Thread Starter
Northern California. What N. Korea would be like if it had nice weather.
When I buy my retirement home -- which I had planned on *not* being in CA but since a family member bought her retirement home in CA and wants me close to help her probably in CA (sigh) -- I am planning on having a double car garage which I will then outfit with a portable lift and with room for an air compressor and a tool box and benchs and cabinet and such and will then probably resume working on my cars, at least the fluid and filter servicing, tires and brakes and such.
When I buy my retirement home -- which I had planned on *not* being in CA but since a family member bought her retirement home in CA and wants me close to help her probably in CA (sigh) -- I am planning on having a double car garage which I will then outfit with a portable lift and with room for an air compressor and a tool box and benchs and cabinet and such and will then probably resume working on my cars, at least the fluid and filter servicing, tires and brakes and such.
09-27-2016, 12:27 PM
#27
Race Director
Thread Starter
Update of sorts...
Dropped the Turbo off Saturday and Monday dropped off the key.
Talked to the tech again and he said with no electrical symptoms the problem would not be cured by a replacement of the electrical portion only.
He said in the (distant) past when they did replace just this portion that often within a year's time or less the car would be back to have the other portion replaced and the customer would be upset that the entire assembly was not replaced when the car was in the first time.
The tech also indicated that my car was over due for this. The SM expressed some surprise Monday when I spoke to him that the Turbo had not already had this item replaced. It appears to be a common problem and at fewer miles than my Turbo has accumulated. At least with the Turbos and possibly other 911 models. My Boxster's ignition switch was fine but came under suspicion by me when the car refused to start. Briefly symptoms were the dash lights would all come on normally but no reaction from anything when I turned the key. The behavior is identical to that of when one tries to start the engine without pressing down the clutch pedal all the way. The clutch interlock switch was replaced and this helped but the no start anomaly returned just not as frequently as before.
I asked the entire ignition switch assembly be replaced against the recommendation of the tech I might add. He did as I asked and reported when he handed over the old assembly it didn't look very bad at all even after IIRC close to 250K miles of use.
Anyhow, the tech said it takes a couple of hours of labor to change out the mechanism. The battery has to be disconnected and part of the dash (the istrument cluster) and part of the steering wheel have to be disassembled to remove the old assembly and install the new one.
Est. for cost of repair is $750 but SM said he give me whatever discounts were possible. We'll see how this works out.
My problem isn't with the cost of the work per se. My problem is that the Turbo needs this work in the first place.
When I bought the Turbo I never dreamed it would require all it has required over the years. No other car I've owned including that crap Ford Mustang GT has required this much work. I have never broken a shifter, had a transmission leak, had problems with the V-belt or serpentine belt drive system, never had rear main seal leaks, axle flange seal leaks, the spoiler on the Boxster still works just fine with now (just last night in fact) over 305K miles.
I don't recall even ever having to replace a water pump on any of my cars before the Boxster -- although I'm sure when I rebuilt engines I used a new water pump. The Boxster's water pump lasted to just over 170K miles. The Turbo's water pump just 120K miles.
The Mustang required one radiator replacement and the radiator fan motor never needed replacement. The Turbo required all 3 radiators and the passenger side radiator fan motor shaft snapped (snapped!) and was replaced (at least under CPO warranty) while the driver side radiator fan motor just started using way too much current and had to be replaced.
The Mustang needed a new clutch -- the throwout bearing failed -- at around 140K miles (but probably more as the odometer didn't record distant correctly which Ford failed to address when I had the car in for this). Niether the Boxster or the Turbo has required a new clutch.
Might mention most of the problems with the Mustang at least occurred within the first 36K miles and were covered by warranty. While the Turbo had some issues and these were covered by the CPO warranty the issues have continued to appear way after the warranty expired.
The Turbo has required two sets of idler/tensioner roller replacement. Not even the Boxster at 305K miles has required even one. I bought a new set when I bought the Boxster just in case and I can't even remember now where the new set is.
The Turbo has been one thing after another. Not at all what I expected. And if I knew then what I know now I never would have bought the Turbo.
Anyhow, I hope to get the Turbo back today so I can then drop off the Boxster for its 305K mile service.
In the meantime the Turbo had better be careful I don't drive it right over to the Tracy auto auction and sell the thing. I'm about that fed up with it.
Talked to the tech again and he said with no electrical symptoms the problem would not be cured by a replacement of the electrical portion only.
He said in the (distant) past when they did replace just this portion that often within a year's time or less the car would be back to have the other portion replaced and the customer would be upset that the entire assembly was not replaced when the car was in the first time.
The tech also indicated that my car was over due for this. The SM expressed some surprise Monday when I spoke to him that the Turbo had not already had this item replaced. It appears to be a common problem and at fewer miles than my Turbo has accumulated. At least with the Turbos and possibly other 911 models. My Boxster's ignition switch was fine but came under suspicion by me when the car refused to start. Briefly symptoms were the dash lights would all come on normally but no reaction from anything when I turned the key. The behavior is identical to that of when one tries to start the engine without pressing down the clutch pedal all the way. The clutch interlock switch was replaced and this helped but the no start anomaly returned just not as frequently as before.
I asked the entire ignition switch assembly be replaced against the recommendation of the tech I might add. He did as I asked and reported when he handed over the old assembly it didn't look very bad at all even after IIRC close to 250K miles of use.
Anyhow, the tech said it takes a couple of hours of labor to change out the mechanism. The battery has to be disconnected and part of the dash (the istrument cluster) and part of the steering wheel have to be disassembled to remove the old assembly and install the new one.
Est. for cost of repair is $750 but SM said he give me whatever discounts were possible. We'll see how this works out.
My problem isn't with the cost of the work per se. My problem is that the Turbo needs this work in the first place.
When I bought the Turbo I never dreamed it would require all it has required over the years. No other car I've owned including that crap Ford Mustang GT has required this much work. I have never broken a shifter, had a transmission leak, had problems with the V-belt or serpentine belt drive system, never had rear main seal leaks, axle flange seal leaks, the spoiler on the Boxster still works just fine with now (just last night in fact) over 305K miles.
I don't recall even ever having to replace a water pump on any of my cars before the Boxster -- although I'm sure when I rebuilt engines I used a new water pump. The Boxster's water pump lasted to just over 170K miles. The Turbo's water pump just 120K miles.
The Mustang required one radiator replacement and the radiator fan motor never needed replacement. The Turbo required all 3 radiators and the passenger side radiator fan motor shaft snapped (snapped!) and was replaced (at least under CPO warranty) while the driver side radiator fan motor just started using way too much current and had to be replaced.
The Mustang needed a new clutch -- the throwout bearing failed -- at around 140K miles (but probably more as the odometer didn't record distant correctly which Ford failed to address when I had the car in for this). Niether the Boxster or the Turbo has required a new clutch.
Might mention most of the problems with the Mustang at least occurred within the first 36K miles and were covered by warranty. While the Turbo had some issues and these were covered by the CPO warranty the issues have continued to appear way after the warranty expired.
The Turbo has required two sets of idler/tensioner roller replacement. Not even the Boxster at 305K miles has required even one. I bought a new set when I bought the Boxster just in case and I can't even remember now where the new set is.
The Turbo has been one thing after another. Not at all what I expected. And if I knew then what I know now I never would have bought the Turbo.
Anyhow, I hope to get the Turbo back today so I can then drop off the Boxster for its 305K mile service.
In the meantime the Turbo had better be careful I don't drive it right over to the Tracy auto auction and sell the thing. I'm about that fed up with it.